Is this what I think it is?

[KingReef16]

Okay, so I need to treat the bryopsis and ostreopsis at the same time. Check. My order of Reef Flux came today, my order of NeoPhos comes tomorrow. I have had the Kessil lights off for 2 days now and I am running UV and GAC.
Now I'm seeing cyano on the sand bed.
So my plan of action is: 1. siphon the sand bed, 2. dose the Reef Flux, 3A. turn off my skimmer for 3? days, 3B. remove the GAC?, 4. Keep an eye on my PO4 levels and if they aren't rising with the die off of the bryopsis, dose NeoPhos......That's as far as my action plan goes....

Anyone have thoughts on turning my lights back on while doing this? So my corals get some much needed light. When should I add lots of phytoplankton and pods?
I very much appreciate thoughts, input, guidance from the reefing gurus

 

[KingReef16]

#reefsquad

 

[Brew12]

Okay, so I need to treat the bryopsis and ostreopsis at the same time. Check. My order of Reef Flux came today, my order of NeoPhos comes tomorrow. I have had the Kessil lights off for 2 days now and I am running UV and GAC.
Now I'm seeing cyano on the sand bed.
So my plan of action is: 1. siphon the sand bed, 2. dose the Reef Flux, 3A. turn off my skimmer for 3? days, 3B. remove the GAC?, 4. Keep an eye on my PO4 levels and if they aren't rising with the die off of the bryopsis, dose NeoPhos......That's as far as my action plan goes....

Anyone have thoughts on turning my lights back on while doing this? So my corals get some much needed light. When should I add lots of phytoplankton and pods?
I very much appreciate thoughts, input, guidance from the reefing gurus

I would turn the lights back on now. Keep the coral as healthy as possible while you begin treatment. My experience is that cyano is a problem when nitrates are limited, dino's tend to be a problem when phosphates are limited. Hopefully once you get the Fluco treatment started you can start getting your nutrients up. The Fluco treatment should take 10 to 14 days. When that treatment is done, add the GAC and do a water change. A day or two later you can start adding the pods and phytoplankton. You can add the pods now if you plan on dosing the phytoplankton daily if you want. You should wait if you can't or don't want to dose the phyto daily.

 

[saltyhog]

Bryopsis and dinos? that has to be the worst pest combination I've ever heard of.....maybe you should throw some aiptasia in just so you have all the bases covered.

If you think you're making an impact on the dinos, definitely run the GAC at that time. Er on the side of being proactive there. I had ostreopsis and my coral did ok until I started getting the dinos to die. The toxins literally took out every coral in my tank except for a couple of palys and some zoas I didn't realize had survived until the last few weeks.

 

[KingReef16]

Bryopsis and dinos? that has to be the worst pest combination I've ever heard of.....maybe you should throw some aiptasia in just so you have all the bases covered.

If you think you're making an impact on the dinos, definitely run the GAC at that time. Er on the side of being proactive there. I had ostreopsis and my coral did ok until I started getting the dinos to die. The toxins literally took out every coral in my tank except for a couple of palys and some zoas I didn't realize had survived until the last few weeks.

Oh my goodness!! I hope that doesn’t happen! I have mostly frags but I have a few big pieces of coral I’m really fond of! Thanks for the insight!

 

[KingReef16]

I would turn the lights back on now. Keep the coral as healthy as possible while you begin treatment. My experience is that cyano is a problem when nitrates are limited, dino's tend to be a problem when phosphates are limited. Hopefully once you get the Fluco treatment started you can start getting your nutrients up. The Fluco treatment should take 10 to 14 days. When that treatment is done, add the GAC and do a water change. A day or two later you can start adding the pods and phytoplankton. You can add the pods now if you plan on dosing the phytoplankton daily if you want. You should wait if you can't or don't want to dose the phyto daily.

Thank you @Brew12 So cleaning the sand maybe isn’t necessary?
I appreciate the help!!!

 

[Brew12]

Thank you @Brew12 So cleaning the sand maybe isn’t necessary?
I appreciate the help!!!

Siphoning the sand can help. Stirring the sand to break it up can also help. If your talking about removing the sand to rinse it and put it back, I wouldn't do it. There is no doubt that this is effective but unless you plan on doing it on a regular basis it isn't going to provide long term results.

 

[KingReef16]

Ok folks, I sucked up and blasted off the dinos and did lights out for 2 days. Today, lights are back on, sand has been stirred a bit, filter socks have been changed, GAC is out, skimmer is unplugged, and I’m about to dump 10 capsules of Reef Flux into my 125g DT. I didn’t think about needing more than 1 bottle of this stuff. It says it treats 100g. I have 125 plus a sump...so all together about 150g. So I’m going to see if my LFS has some tomorrow and add a little more. But for now, here comes the cloudiness. Fingers crossed!

 

[KingReef16]

Well that didn’t dissolve much. I’ve got some big clumps of it in the sand. And now I’m watching the tank like I’m going to see this stuff magically melt away in an instant lol

 

[KingReef16]

Ok freaking out. I’ve never seen my hammer look like this. Started after adding fluconazole.
FREAKING OUT @Brew12 #reefsquad

 

[KingReef16]

 

[Brew12]

Ok freaking out. I’ve never seen my hammer look like this. Started after adding fluconazole.
FREAKING OUT @Brew12 #reefsquad

My hammers have never reacted to Fluco. Normally the Fluco is dissolved in tank water in a separate container prior to adding it to the DT. I wonder if some clumps have landed on it and are irritating it. I'm not sure what you can do other than maybe trying to fan it or lightly baste it to try and blow any clumps off of it.

For future reference, never add a powder to the tank without dissolving it first unless it is a food or you put it in a filter sock. Even adding salt to raise salinity can cause problems if it isn't dissolved first.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Turn the lights off. Get a water change ready. Watch the coral and stay calm. Is a turkey baster and gently blow stuff off the coral.

In all the threads I’ve seen there’s no reaction to the fluco. By anything.
So yea , probaly got some Chunks on it.

I don’t think that’s bryopsis

 

[KingReef16]

My hammers have never reacted to Fluco. Normally the Fluco is dissolved in tank water in a separate container prior to adding it to the DT. I wonder if some clumps have landed on it and are irritating it. I'm not sure what you can do other than maybe trying to fan it or lightly baste it to try and blow any clumps off of it.

For future reference, never add a powder to the tank without dissolving it first unless it is a food or you put it in a filter sock. Even adding salt to raise salinity can cause problems if it isn't dissolved first.

I did dissolve it in a cup of tank water before pouring it in- as best as I could get it to dissolve anyway. It apparently settled some in the cup in the 2 minutes between stirring it all up and putting it in the tank.

 

[KingReef16]

Turn the lights off. Get a water change ready. Watch the coral and stay calm. Is a turkey baster and gently blow stuff off the coral.

In all the threads I’ve seen there’s no reaction to the fluco. By anything.
So yea , probaly got some Chunks on it.

I don’t think that’s bryopsis

You think it’s GHA?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

You think it’s GHA?

Can’t tell, some seems wiry.
Don’t sweat it. No harm no foul.

Stay on course and it’ll work itself out.
Go slow , try not to mix methods or treatments at the same time.

 

[KingReef16]

Can’t tell, some seems wiry.
Don’t sweat it. No harm no foul.

Stay on course and it’ll work itself out.
Go slow , try not to mix methods or treatments at the same time.

Whatever it is, it’s all over the tank. I think that’s what caused the zero PO4 and low nitrates that lead to the dinos. If it’s gha it should still react to the fluco - just not as quickly from what I’ve read. I thought I had a good game plan...now I want to pull my hair out. If I do a wc I take out the fluco. Which is in snowy chunks everywhere. My goniopora is retracted but everything else has opened back up and looks fine. Arrrrghh!

 

[Brew12]

You think it’s GHA?

Some GHA is also Bryopsis. Or, more accurately, from the order Bryopsidales. I do not believe it is from the family Bryopsidaceae which has the larger, more distinct fronds. If you have what I had, and it looks exactly the same, it was from the family of Derbesia which are hair algaes. Unfortunately, this particular member of the Derbesia family is challenging to find a natural control as most fish and inverts won't eat it. Since it is from the order Bryopsidales, the Fluco should be effective.

 

[Brew12]

Whatever it is, it’s all over the tank. I think that’s what caused the zero PO4 and low nitrates that lead to the dinos. If it’s gha it should still react to the fluco - just not as quickly from what I’ve read. I thought I had a good game plan...now I want to pull my hair out. If I do a wc I take out the fluco. Which is in snowy chunks everywhere. My goniopora is retracted but everything else has opened back up and looks fine. Arrrrghh!

Other than the chunks, I feel you are on the right path. Once you get to a full dose this stuff should start melting in 4 or 5 days. Much faster than the non Bryopsidales hair algaes.

 

[KingReef16]

Other than the chunks, I feel you are on the right path. Once you get to a full dose this stuff should start melting in 4 or 5 days. Much faster than the non Bryopsidales hair algaes.

Sigh...I guess I will try again with dissolving it better and get it up to a full dose tomorrow. It’s a start I guess.
Hopefully my hammer perks back up after blowing him off with the baster.