It keeps just waving at me

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Evand68

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I thought I was about at the end of my cycle.ammonia and nitrites down, and the nitrates were there. I got some blue/green chromis, and turned the lights on. Now now ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are all reading zero. I believe the algae is causing this, but do not know what to do. Is it Green Hair Algae, or Bryopsis? I have turned the lights out to help.... Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Tank setup is 55 gallon display
20 gallon sump
29 gallon display refugium.
DIY overflow, and gravity feed
Reef octopus int 110
VarioS 4 return pump
2 usa marine current eflux wave pumps
1 hydor koralia wave pump
Reef breeder photon v2+ 48in. Led
Ai prime Fuge light
Both dry and live rock/sand
Tunze ATO
20190203_213654.jpg
20190203_164754.jpg
20190202_183041.jpg
15492482941774421382075168090569.jpg
Screenshot_20190203-212248_Gallery.jpg
 
Thank you. I was hoping that wasn't the case. I've been reading, and looking at all the posts I can to try to figure it out on my own.
 
I just wasn't sure
 
Sounds good. I do not have any coral yet, so any treatment option is a viable one.
 
I can put the two chromis in a holding tank if need be
 
I believe a 3 day blackout may help, but I've never dealt with a severe case like what you have there.
 
The tips of this patch are brown
15492489993754231461818484075397.jpg
 
The lights are off. Only on for the pictures. Seems like I noticed a little patch, and then within this past week BOOM
 
Looks like a new system... alot of base rock... 2 much light...
Imo. Tank near a window?
 
No not by a window. This was all within the last two weeks. The algae is mostly on the dried live rock, and yes started my cycle beginning of January. I have turned the photon V2+ off for the last couple of days, and the tips are starting to brown out. I started pulling some out, but am scared that that is just going to make it spread. I thought I was done with my cycle, but after checking again today I had a slight ammonia spike. So I did not purchase a clean up crew like i wanted to
 
Keep the lights off for a while. Siphon as much GHA as you can out. This will go away. There is also a good BRS video on cycling. It’s worth a look.
 
Keep lights off and do a w/c. Try to cover the tank so no light gets the the algae. Not sure if you should turn off your refugium light.
 
Hi. Cool looking setup! I like your use of a display fuge (I set up something similar), it's nice to see someone else with one. I liked the idea of pods taking an easy gravity ride to the DT.

So, with your problem, its nothing a little elbow grease can't solve...

Here's what I would do (you will need (2) 5g buckets, and a toothbrush):

Make up 5g of new SW and put it off to the side. Use the 2nd 5g bucket and fill it halfway with tank water. Take each rock out one at a time and scrub it with the toothbrush in the bucket, dunking and swirling it around before putting it back in the tank. Once you hit all of the infected rocks, you can siphon out some more water filling the rest of the bucket. Do the water change with the new SW you mixed and you're good to go.

Once that process is done it's a matter of your light cycle and clean up crew to keep it away. I wouldn't run the lights for more than 6 hours total for now. Once the tank has matured a bit and you have some coral you can add more time. I actually run 2 fuges, one is the utility fuge that's in the sump that runs on an opposite light cycle to the DT. The display fuge has a similar light cycle as the DT. Is there any way you can add a light and grow some algae down in your sump? There would be too much light bleeding over to the display to run your display fuge on alternate cycle.

Double check your ammonia test, I wouldn't be surprised if it was a bad reading. You should be clear for a CUC. When exactly did you start the system, and what cycle process did you follow?
 
Thank you for the advice. I
Hi. Cool looking setup! I like your use of a display fuge (I set up something similar), it's nice to see someone else with one. I liked the idea of pods taking an easy gravity ride to the DT.

So, with your problem, its nothing a little elbow grease can't solve...

Here's what I would do (you will need (2) 5g buckets, and a toothbrush):

Make up 5g of new SW and put it off to the side. Use the 2nd 5g bucket and fill it halfway with tank water. Take each rock out one at a time and scrub it with the toothbrush in the bucket, dunking and swirling it around before putting it back in the tank. Once you hit all of the infected rocks, you can siphon out some more water filling the rest of the bucket. Do the water change with the new SW you mixed and you're good to go.

Once that process is done it's a matter of your light cycle and clean up crew to keep it away. I wouldn't run the lights for more than 6 hours total for now. Once the tank has matured a bit and you have some coral you can add more time. I actually run 2 fuges, one is the utility fuge that's in the sump that runs on an opposite light cycle to the DT. The display fuge has a similar light cycle as the DT. Is there any way you can add a light and grow some algae down in your sump? There would be too much light bleeding over to the display to run your display fuge on alternate cycle.

Double check your ammonia test, I wouldn't be surprised if it was a bad reading. You should be clear for a CUC. When exactly did you start the system, and what cycle process did you follow?
Keep lights off and do a w/c. Try to cover the tank so no light gets the the algae. Not sure if you should turn off your refugium light.

took some water to the LFS yesterday, and .25ppm at least ammonia spike. Thank you for the advice. I only made a 2 section sumnp. Baffles are behind the post. I am going to try the water change, and rock scrub like you posted. I'll just wait another week or so for the CUC just to be cautious. I do not want algae to clog up the skimmer, so I'm going to black out the side of the display fuge. I think that will take care of the light leak
15493731123596267897544379102951.jpg
15493731385991275961055309283153.jpg
 
Keep lights off and do a w/c. Try to cover the tank so no light gets the the algae. Not sure if you should turn off your refugium light.
Thanks I'm going to check out that video
 
You can also drop the fuge light down to just above the tank, that will help with the light leak also. It doesnt need to be that high.
 
You can also drop the fuge light down to just above the tank, that will help with the light leak also. It doesnt need to be that high.
I'll do that too
 
I thought I was about at the end of my cycle.ammonia and nitrites down, and the nitrates were there. I got some blue/green chromis, and turned the lights on. Now now ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are all reading zero. I believe the algae is causing this, but do not know what to do. Is it Green Hair Algae, or Bryopsis? I have turned the lights out to help.... Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Tank setup is 55 gallon display
20 gallon sump
29 gallon display refugium.
DIY overflow, and gravity feed
Reef octopus int 110
VarioS 4 return pump
2 usa marine current eflux wave pumps
1 hydor koralia wave pump
Reef breeder photon v2+ 48in. Led
Ai prime Fuge light
Both dry and live rock/sand
Tunze ATO
20190203_213654.jpg
20190203_164754.jpg
20190202_183041.jpg
15492482941774421382075168090569.jpg
Screenshot_20190203-212248_Gallery.jpg
There's a thread here on adding herbivore fish and cook veges, add veges on hair algae. Let fish eat veges with algae.
 

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