Its impossible (parameter issues)

Rushing to set up a new tank to go out of town will likely not end well. Why not try to reduce heat in your current tank? Corals can thrive with only 6 hours of light per day, try reducing your photoperiod.
 
Rushing to set up a new tank to go out of town will likely not end well. Why not try to reduce heat in your current tank? Corals can thrive with only 6 hours of light per day, try reducing your photoperiod.
I don't see a great outcome. If your current tank is bigger then the 10g, Most likely going to do much better when your on your cruise/
 
i ran into the same issue with store bought salt and hydrometer. I went through the whole process with the hydrometer. Took my water to the LFS afterwards and the salt ran high. My 1.020 was their 1.031. Did a relative exchange with some freshwater, and bought a refractometer.
 
A small tank is inherently less stable. A small amount of evaporation increases the salinity more than if the same amount had evaporated from a larger tank. The corals will also be using up Ca etc. from the water, and because of the smaller amount of water these chemicals will become depleted much more quickly than had those corals been left in a larger tank. Small tanks are certainly doable, but rushing to set one up and then leave it for a week without knowing how the corals will respond to the conditions in that tank is tough, and should something go wrong you won't be there to correct the situation. Reducing your photoperiod like suggested above sounds like the best option. Even raising your lights if possible could help with the heat issue. The coral won't receive as much light, but sometimes the tropics have cloudy/stormy weather and those corals don't get as much light either.
 
Unless your tank is totally crashing, let them be and enjoy your cruise. Changing anything before going away is a major reefing violation! Lol
Maybe do a water change with water you know is good before you go. A 10 gallon tank is hard enough to keep stable, never mind throwing it together in a rush . I would chill and use some of your downtime on vacation and read up on successful reefing protocols. ( the only time I get is when I lock myself in the bathroom do my kids give me a moments peace.... Lol)
 
Why ask for advice if you already have your mind made up?
Relax bro, just a question on why thats a bad idea..... And russella i disagree about small tanks being more work and harder. i Have a 39 setup in living romm and that thing kills me work wise, I believe any tank can be suscessfull as long as you do weekly water changes!
 
Relax bro, just a question on why thats a bad idea..... And russella i disagree about small tanks being more work and harder. i Have a 39 setup in living romm and that thing kills me work wise, I believe any tank can be suscessfull as long as you do weekly water changes!

I don't think "work" was the issue Russell was addressing. I believe he said they are "inherently less stable" which is an undeniable fact because of the evaporation rate to ratio of overall tank water. His point was that the water parameters will change more quickly just because there is less water in the tank (therefore any change will be more drastic). Evaporation (as a percentage), nutrient build up, and element usage will all be quick and more drastic in a smaller tank. His advice was that you not downgrade tank sizes right before you go on vacation because the smaller water volume will be less stable...
 
So your saying evaperation will occur making the paremeters off? But that cant happen because i have a hood over it. right? I just checked my paremeters.
mag:1440 ppm
calc:440
Alk: Really high at 19 dkh ( test kit must be off because my calc woulnt be that)
And heres a pic of ph nitrate and nitrite test ( i no its a cheap test but just to get a idea)
DSC_1850[1].jpg
 
So your saying evaperation will occur making the paremeters off? But that cant happen because i have a hood over it. right?

Unfortunately, that's not true. A hood (if closed on all sides) will help reduce evaporation rate (like on a biocube), but evaporation still happens. If you have a hood that is airtight, then you have gas exchange problems and that will cause problems with other stuff. Is this new 10g some kind of all-in-one like a biocube? That's the kind of hood that helps reduce evaporation while allowing for gas exchange...but even then a 10g will swing more than a 29g.

Also, evaporation wasn't the only thing I mentioned that will cause stuff to swing...
 
Unfortunately, that's not true. A hood (if closed on all sides) will help reduce evaporation rate (like on a biocube), but evaporation still happens. If you have a hood that is airtight, then you have gas exchange problems and that will cause problems with other stuff. Is this new 10g some kind of all-in-one like a biocube? That's the kind of hood that helps reduce evaporation while allowing for gas exchange...but even then a 10g will swing more than a 29g.

Also, evaporation wasn't the only thing I mentioned that will cause stuff to swing...
Well ill half to wait and see how much evap there is, what can you say about my parameters?
 
Well ill half to wait and see how much evap there is, what can you say about my parameters?

Just found where you posted pics of your tank (you should post those here by the way...would give folks a good idea of your setup). That hood will help but not eliminate evaporation.
 
100% AGREE!!!!
Strip test are very inconsistant with their rersults.

If I were you I'd ditch the strip test kit. They can be very inaccurate. I use Red Sea liquid kit.

I dont believe anything in saltwater which is rushed will lead to a good thing... I've been chasing numbers for a month and finally realized what my problem was lol.
Best of luck in your 10 gal adventures!!!
 
#1- Test strips are garbage
#2- Hydrometers are garbage
#3- Instant Ocean wouldn't test out that high on its best day. Reef Crystals maybe, but not Instant Ocean, it tests out low on everything, I should know, I still use it.
The test you did earlier, wouldn't be much different that the one you just did, thus everyone telling you to ditch the hydrometer and the test strips. There are a few of us out there that know a thing or 2, just a few...:tongue:
 
Alk: Really high at 19 dkh ( test kit must be off because my calc woulnt be that)
And heres a pic of ph nitrate and nitrite test ( i no its a cheap test but just to get a idea) DSC_1850[1].jpg [/QUOTE]Ik about the test strips, i said it in the post. I was just getting idea. Thanks joker!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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