Just Another SPS Color Thread

[Brandon McHenry]

So I've reviewed your pictures and this is why I think.

Your corals actually have good color, it is just covered up by zooxanthela which is giving them a brown/dark appearance.

You definitely do not need to dose nitrates, your corals are getting fed plenty with your feeding schedule. In my opinion you need to cut back on your feeding, your corals are not pale. A couple people have misinterpreted the literature lately and have spread the misnomer that you want an increased concentration of zooxanthela. Zooxanthela are brown, when the population is increased your coral will be brown. What you want to do is decrease the population of zooxanthela and bring out the natural color of your coral more.

In order to bring out the true color of your coral, from looking at your pictures and reading your tank stats, you need to cut back on your feeding. First, stop adding coral food, if you are feeding your fish three times a day they are getting enough food from just that. Don't bother with anything extra...for now. Also, since your getting so much nutrients to your corals, you can bump up your alk and calcium a bit. Slowly them up (but not to high). Observe the changes you get over about a month, and I think you'll see improvements.

You can probably increase the intensity of your lights slightly. The full spectrum light will help develop the color, and the blue light will bring it out more. Do not turn them down more.

This is interesting considering all of the previous information I have received in this thread as well as my other ones. I believe you are the first person to suggest that I actually need less nutrients and more light. As with any suggestion I do have questions. First off, wouldn't the white on some of my corals like my ORA shortcake be an indicator of too few zooxanthellae as opposed to too much? In addition, isn't lower alk and calcium believed to be better for those trying to achieve coloration more than growth. I used to run my parameters a little higher than this and it always seemed like the colors were not as good. Finally, I believe that some of the pieces I see as pale have only gotten that way as they grew larger. This may be coincidental but it is at least something worth noting.

Maybe its my misunderstanding and maybe its the picture of my corals but at least when I look at them in person I feel as if I see more paleness than brown.

Again I appreciate any and all help that may aid me in achieving a more vibrant color from my SPS.

 

[bct15]

First I'll show you some pics from my tank before my move, so you can see im not a noob an have experience coloring up volleyball sized SPS colonies. These are all iPhone pics, so the colors are much better than the pics show. You'll see I'm not just regurgitating something I read but talking from experience.

 

[Brandon McHenry]

First I'll show you some pics from my tank before my move, so you can see im not a noob an have experience coloring up volleyball sized SPS colonies. These are all iPhone pics, so the colors are much better than the pics show. You'll see I'm not just regurgitating something I read but talking from experience.

I was in no way trying to question your experience, simply pointing out that you are the first of many people to suggest I need less rather than more nutrients and more rather than less light. I was just intrigued because I thought I was finally coming to a consensus and then this is quite the opposite. I saw my pieces getting what I thought was paler and so it all made sense to me but I am more than willing to listen to everyones thoughts and opinions.

 

[jvb89]

Very nice BCT!

 

[mcarroll]

You said you don't even know what kind of corals you have or what they're supposed to look like but yet you have some expectation that they are supposed to be more colorful than they are.

I would examine that expectation a little more closely and see if it's well-placed or not.

Please remember that nobody has any idea what "more colorful" means for a coral. It does not mean better. It does not mean more healthy. Or anything else that anyone has defined.

Carrying these facts in mind your main goal should be to have a stable system. Mostly that means stable water parameters. Above all that means stable alkalinity.

I would get a lux meter to gauge your light levels. Too much light is definitely possible and detrimental. A lux meter is exactly accurate enough for you to use so disregard any comments to the contrary. You simply want to make sure you were lux is between direct sunlight and full day light levels. Look up the Wikipedia article on lux to see the scale.

Also consider that your pumps are not ideal for your tank. One MP 40 will flow a space about 2'. After 2' the flow is extremely weak. I would consider pumps that have slightly more directed flow such as the Tunze Stream line. Most of the controllable and uncontrollable models would be appropriate for your size tank depending on how you deploy them.

 

[Brandon McHenry]

You said you don't even know what kind of corals you have or what they're supposed to look like but yet you have some expectation that they are supposed to be more colorful than they are.

I would examine that expectation a little more closely and see if it's well-placed or not.

Please remember that nobody has any idea what "more colorful" means for a coral. It does not mean better. It does not mean more healthy. Or anything else that anyone has defined.

Carrying these facts in mind your main goal should be to have a stable system. Mostly that means stable water parameters. Above all that means stable alkalinity.

I would get a lux meter to gauge your light levels. Too much light is definitely possible and detrimental. A lux meter is exactly accurate enough for you to use so disregard any comments to the contrary. You simply want to make sure you were lux is between direct sunlight and full day light levels. Look up the Wikipedia article on lux to see the scale.

Also consider that your pumps are not ideal for your tank. One MP 40 will flow a space about 2'. After 2' the flow is extremely weak. I would consider pumps that have slightly more directed flow such as the Tunze Stream line. Most of the controllable and uncontrollable models would be appropriate for your size tank depending on how you deploy them.

This is true. Many of my SPS have unknown identities mainly because my local fish stores are not well versed in SPS corals so when I decided to get a piece it is because I think it has good bones and I am able to get more out of it than they can, and in all cases I have improved the SPS that I have purchased. This being said, I do know the identities of some of my pieces and I do not feel that they are as colorful as they are known to be. I also don't believe that every piece in my tank is the best that it will ever be which is why I am out to determine how I can help my SPS reach their full potential.

I understand that more colorful does not necessarily mean healthier or better. However, if the coral appears to be happy and healthy, than why can color not go hand in hand with the two? I believe that corals must be healthy in order to become colorful.

As far as my system parameters I believe that my system is fairly stable. I invested in a dosing system a year ago and my calcium, alkalinity and magnesium have not fluctuated from what I set them at. The only changes that have occurred were my one time gradual decrease to a lower alkalinity system and the gradual changes in dosing volumes due to coral growth.

I will definitely look into a lux meter. I was under the impression that a PAR meter was better and since none of my local fish stores have them available for rent, and I did not want to purchase one, I have gone without. If a lux meter will give me the same results for a more respectable price than I will definitely consider.

As far as my pumps I spent quite some time debating between vortech and tunze. In the end I liked the design and flow patterns of the new MP40 QD more than the directional flow patterns of the tunzes. I know a lot of it is personal preference and for me I feel that these just work better for me. Seeing them in action I know that they do push more than expected. With the two that I have now all of my SPS get great flow and they all have polyp movement throughout the day. I agree that the MP40's wouldn't have been the best choice but I believe that the newer model is suiting me quite well.

 

[Russ265]

ok. so here is my take.

you do not need to dose nitrates. you do not have "pale" corals. pale are void of color and some of those guys have deep color while others are getting a bit too much light.

you are in "tweak mode". by that. you will need to mess with iodine, potassium, lighting and such.

colors that you want to darken need to go a lil lower in the tank.

colors that you want to thin out a bit go higher.

you have a good sweet spot. its just that some of the position choices arent to your liking.

i think your potassium is spot on.

the browner or reddish ones that you want to go deeper will need a bluer spectrum. 420-460nm.

i would actually roll with that as it seems you are running your lights in the 14k range.

may want to drop alk just a teensy bit as well. try dropping .5 dkh to eliminate the white growth.

really you have a great base canvas. just do changes in small increments and observe over a month.

my personal opinion.

 

[mcarroll]

[…]
I will definitely look into a lux meter.
[…]
I agree that the MP40's wouldn't have been the best choice but I believe that the newer model is suiting me quite well.

Search the forum for my username and lux for several longer explanations of how/why they are useful if it would help.

FWIW, I've been using my $12 lux meter successfully for years now. IMO, a must have for anyone, but especially if you have a dimmable lighting setup.

As far as the mp40's, there's almost certainly a deadish zone in the center of the tank. It is probably less bad then larger 6 foot tanks, but all 6 foot tanks I've seen personally that run mp40s on the side glasses also have this deadish spot. Water will be moving there, but not with any significant force so it will become a settling zone compared to the ares of the tank closer to the pumps. Individual corals may or may not be happy there due to their individual preferences but this phenomena will still be happening.

Further, every 6 foot tank I've upgraded to 6105's has had a "holy cow look at all that detritus come out of the sand/rocks!" moment when the new pumps (which only run one at a time) turn on. I suppose that is not the same as a guarantee that this will be your outcome, but it is definitely something I would be on the lookout for. The upside if you switched is that the Tunze rig is cheaper.

Overall, even having said all that, I think I agree with Russ that you actually have a really good base to start from - there are probably minimal, if any, changes that really need to be made.

Check your current lighting set up with a Lux meter and just be aware of the rest. [emoji41]

 

[jvb89]

Search the forum for my username and lux for several longer explanations of how/why they are useful if it would help.

FWIW, I've been using my $12 lux meter successfully for years now. IMO, a must have for anyone, but especially if you have a dimmable lighting setup.

As far as the mp40's, there's almost certainly a deadish zone in the center of the tank. It is probably less bad then larger 6 foot tanks, but all 6 foot tanks I've seen personally that run mp40s on the side glasses also have this deadish spot. Water will be moving there, but not with any significant force so it will become a settling zone compared to the ares of the tank closer to the pumps. Individual corals may or may not be happy there due to their individual preferences but this phenomena will still be happening.

Further, every 6 foot tank I've upgraded to 6105's has had a "holy cow look at all that detritus come out of the sand/rocks!" moment when the new pumps (which only run one at a time) turn on. I suppose that is not the same as a guarantee that this will be your outcome, but it is definitely something I would be on the lookout for. The upside if you switched is that the Tunze rig is cheaper.

Overall, even having said all that, I think I agree with Russ that you actually have a really good base to start from - there are probably minimal, if any, changes that really need to be made.

Check your current lighting set up with a Lux meter and just be aware of the rest. [emoji41]

Which meter do you use?

 

[Brandon McHenry]

Search the forum for my username and lux for several longer explanations of how/why they are useful if it would help.

FWIW, I've been using my $12 lux meter successfully for years now. IMO, a must have for anyone, but especially if you have a dimmable lighting setup.

As far as the mp40's, there's almost certainly a deadish zone in the center of the tank. It is probably less bad then larger 6 foot tanks, but all 6 foot tanks I've seen personally that run mp40s on the side glasses also have this deadish spot. Water will be moving there, but not with any significant force so it will become a settling zone compared to the ares of the tank closer to the pumps. Individual corals may or may not be happy there due to their individual preferences but this phenomena will still be happening.

Further, every 6 foot tank I've upgraded to 6105's has had a "holy cow look at all that detritus come out of the sand/rocks!" moment when the new pumps (which only run one at a time) turn on. I suppose that is not the same as a guarantee that this will be your outcome, but it is definitely something I would be on the lookout for. The upside if you switched is that the Tunze rig is cheaper.

Overall, even having said all that, I think I agree with Russ that you actually have a really good base to start from - there are probably minimal, if any, changes that really need to be made.

Check your current lighting set up with a Lux meter and just be aware of the rest. [emoji41]

Wow for $12 that does seem like a great investment. How is the accuracy and do you convert to PAR?

There may be an area of lower flow in the center of my tank but due to my new aquascape and coral placement, the rocks are almost V shaped with open water in the center or the tank. I have placed my monti cap in the center as I feel it will be the most forgiving of the lower flow.

Unfortunately my purchase of these pumps were quite recent so even if I wanted to I couldn't justify going out and replacing my pumps again. Maybe at some point down the road on another tank but for this one it will have to remain the MP40QD.

Thank you for the compliments, and you too Russ! I believe I tend to lay it on a bit thick when I complain about my coral colors because every last piece I have purchased has improved in my tank. That being said I know some still need some work for me to really be happy. Im very particular and Im a bit of a perfectionist so Im trying to achieve better than average colors and it has proven to be a challenge. However I do appreciate all of the help that everyone is giving.

 

[gettaReef]

You could always keep the MP40s and add a Tunze (or other similar type flow pump) later. I'm an advocate for TONS of flow, esp random flow

 

[Brandon McHenry]

You could always keep the MP40s and add a Tunze (or other similar type flow pump) later. I'm an advocate for TONS of flow, esp random flow

Very true. That may be a possibility one day for sure.

 

[Brandon McHenry]

So I finally figured out how to take photos of my corals that best represent what I'm seeing in real life. They are not perfect but I think they are much better than before. I hope that this will help everyone to better understand my situation and help me assess what my best options are. I also hope this helps to remove any of the ambiguity in my previous photos.

I am going to be posting quite a few pictures so please forgive me.

I am looking forward to hearing everyones' thoughts and opinions now that I have some more accurate photos to show you all. Thanks in advance!

 

[JaysLittleOcean]

They look beautiful.

 

[Brandon McHenry]

They look beautiful.

Thanks Im certainly trying and still hoping to improve!

 

[mcarroll]

The lux meter is the "LX-1010B". There's one or two common housings, and many many vendors sell them. For less than $20, I agree it's a great investment. Amazing that it also has non-aquarium uses!

I do not convert to PAR.

Having a meter that will take useful, repeatable readings - vs guessing your levels or laying out $200 - is what's cool. [emoji106]

If you wanted to compare numbers with someone who uses a PAR meter, you'd just need to know your light's PAR:lux conversion factor. Borrow a par meter once and compare an identical reading using each meter. Put the two together and you have a lux/par conversion factor you can apply to every future lux reading you take of that light fixture.

For what it's worth, unless I'm mistaken Vortech pumps hold their resale value pretty well. I will leave it at that.

 

[jvb89]

Does it have a submersible wand?

 

[mcarroll]

No - and all measurements can/should be at the water surface. You will be aiming to recreate the levels the sun might give at the surface.

That can be from around 20,000 lux up to around 80,000 lux.

Above that range can be expected to be stressful to some corals.

On the other hand, even many SPS are quite happy at or below the lower end of the scale.

A meter gives you the ability to target specific light levels, repeatably.

 

[Brandon McHenry]

So it seems like a LUX meter is definitely on my to-do list for my tank. It should give me a better understanding of the amount of light Im putting out for sure.

 

[gettaReef]

Thanks to mcarrolls posts, I learned how to use my lux meter also. There are lux meters that do have a submersible probe, like mine made by Milwaukee Instruments, but they may be more pricey than $20 (I believe mine was around $80)