just received hanna checker...phosphates= 1.27 help

sredzins

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 24, 2013
Messages
297
Reaction score
0
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
i just recieved my hanna checker phosphate, and its saying my phosphate is 1.27. i also just added some chaeto to the refugium to combat a small hair algae problem, could this cause die off that would cause the high reading? also, i am due for a water change tomorrow. please help

also, system is only 5 months old
 
Last edited:
Before you get too far you need to help narrow it down to where it is coming from.
1. I would start by testing your RODI water to make sure that the tds is actually 0. Use a calibrated hand unit to make sure that it is accurate. If its not 0 then I would use your hanna checker to see if there are any phosphate levels.
2 Check the phosphate levels in your fresh mixed salt water.
After you eliminate any of those as being the problem. Then definitely doing a big water change to get them down lower.
Reduce feedings, especially flake foods can have higher phosphate amounts in them. Rinsing your frozen foods with RODI water before feeding.


Running some GFO.
Biopellets, or look into vodka/vinegar carbon dosing.
 
My apologies, I just tested it again and I am at .07 which I am happy with. But would die off from nuisance algae because of the chaeto consuming nutrients cause phosphates?
 
Not to be a stickler but feeding the tank is the only thing that causes phosphates. ;)

Taking your question as theoretical, any nutrients released by die-off like this should be transient enough (assuming a healthy chaeto ball) that I bet they wouldn't accumulate enough to show on a test.

-Matt
 
Not to be a stickler but feeding the tank is the only thing that causes phosphates. ;)

Taking your question as theoretical, any nutrients released by die-off like this should be transient enough (assuming a healthy chaeto ball) that I bet they wouldn't accumulate enough to show on a test.

-Matt

Phosphates can't be introduced via water? As in tap water?


Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk
 
Not to be a stickler but feeding the tank is the only thing that causes phosphates. ;)


-Matt

Ill have to disagree here. Tap water and Poor DI water will contain phosphates. Check there first if you are not over feeding... I fight this same battle.
 
You are right.

I assumed you used your tester to rule that out (which you should do, if you haven't), I may have been a bit absolute and I guess it depends on whose source water we are talking about too (phosphates are considered a food additive vs pollutant so aren't regulated).

BUT the supply of phosphates coming in via food to your tank should monumentally dwarf any from the tap water...especially if you are using RODI water. ;)

(And while you will never see me recommend it, there are folks who reef successfully without doing anything to their tap water but chlorine removal.)

-Matt
 
Okay so I tested on Saturday and my phosphates were at .07 and I was okay with that. I did a 5 gallon water change yesterday along with cleaning all my equipment (skimmer, power heads, pumps, and refugium) and I did another 5 gallon water change today. That puts me at about 20% water change. I tested phosphates and I am at .19... why?
 
Can't be. But, what are you feeding your fish that would contain phosphates? And or your water has it in it all of a sudden.
 
I know but I didn't think it was a proper reading so I did it again and got .17. I don't know how this can be. I fed cyclopeze right before the first water change and fed a few ocean nutrition pellets but made sure the fish got all of them. It couldn't be that I vacuumed the sand right? Phosphate is in the water column
 
Is that possible to unlock them from the sand bed? I also noticed three very very tiny scratches about one milimeter a piece on the cuvette I used. Could something so small cause this?
 
I doubt scratches caused anything.
Nitrates and Phosphates can get locked up in the Sand Bed.
 
If you stirred up your sand and rocks, the phosphates that have settled will now be in the water column. This is why curing rocks is important because they can be loaded with phosphates and even though it won't show up on your test kits it will still grow algae on the rocks.
 
so when would the phosphate settle so i can get an accurate reading of what is in the water column? also, how do i know if the rocks are loaded up with phosphates?
 
would it be smart to get a phosphate reactor so the phosphate accumulates on the media and not on the sand and rocks?
 
If fingerprints on cuvettes can cause issues, scratches can as well. These meters rely in very subtle changes in light to determine the readings reported. They are very sensitive! Source water, salt mix and food inputs are usually the culprits when dealing with phosphates, but you are not crazy to consider the clarity of the testing cuvettes.
 
Running some GFO would remove the Phosphates from the water. Which if you had that high of a reading, we would be recommending you use to remove it anyways.:bigsmile:
 
I personally wouldnt freak out at .17.... I will not post what my phos level is at. Def check your sources. Does anything look like its suffering from this .17 number? And would a .17 level make corals appear any different? I doubt it. Dont chase numbers. Being 5 months old, maybe ur tank is just going run at that level.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top