It didn't always run at this level. And I would be okay with .17 but it is causing algae that I really don't like looking at. I think I will try a very small amount of phosban until my chaeto grows large enough to sustain the phosphates.
just received hanna checker...phosphates= 1.27 help
- Thread starter sredzins
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I went through a spike in phos a few months back... Still cant really say for sure what caused it. I def have cut back on the daily chalice feedings. Im using the Kent Phos remover just in a bag in the sump (no reactor) and my levels have maintained steady.
That would definately help out.
MadBrad527
Community Member
I am currently having a phosphate issue as well (higher than 1 ppm :sad
and my nitrates are a tad high (45 ppm) so I went out and read online what the best solution is for me, since I have a HOB multi-purpose filter that has a skimmer, then bioballs, then fuge and I have placed a nylon bag of the Chemipure Elite in there. I haven't noticed a difference yet, but I am waiting a good 5-6 weeks to see if that helps me out. Since the elite has ferric oxide, I believe that it will certainly help out. Curious to know how well it does though, it's definitely interesting...
and my nitrates are a tad high (45 ppm) so I went out and read online what the best solution is for me, since I have a HOB multi-purpose filter that has a skimmer, then bioballs, then fuge and I have placed a nylon bag of the Chemipure Elite in there. I haven't noticed a difference yet, but I am waiting a good 5-6 weeks to see if that helps me out. Since the elite has ferric oxide, I believe that it will certainly help out. Curious to know how well it does though, it's definitely interesting...
Carbon dosing doesn't do much for phosphates, it helps a little but is mostly for nitrate control. Phosphates at your level carbon dosing will not help. You'll need some gfo or something similar.
I will have to disagree it has worked great for me at reducing phosphates and nitrates to proper levels. But you have to know the correct way to dose and i do not use vodka either.
I believe I have found the phosphate source. I haven't seen my emerald crab in a while and this morning I found a pair of white claws and half of the top shell on the sand bed. Is it worth tearing doesn't all my rock to find the rest of him? I have a feeling he's been dead for weeks. I also siphon my sand bed and am surprised I haven't found this sooner
mtfish
Well-Known Member
Phosphate checker is only accurate to 0.04. It should come with two glass tubes. Use the one without scratches. This will affect your readings. Growing algae will consume phosphates. Dying algae will release back into the water. Try to manually clean out all hair algae as you can as this will permanently remove phosphates it has tied up. High phosphates in SPS tank will be an issue. If you are a fish only system, your readings are not a problem. But remember, even if you get a reading of 0.00, levels could be as high as 0.04. This is why I always want to get low readings on the meter.
jedimasterben
Bubble coral sting good
Ok, everyone is jumping around to very different conclusions, all dealing with the tank water.
To be frank, you're more than likely doing the test incorrectly, or are not getting all of the reagent powder into the vial, or are not mixing the reagent thoroughly enough, or are not letting every single bubble in the reagent vial dissipate. All of these can separately cause inaccurate readings, any combination will cause incredibly inaccurate and inconsistent results.
To get accurate results, you need to use both vials. Fill both with 10mL of water. Now take your reagent packet and tap into one corner. Cut the packet in half diagonally, and then push those two tips together, and you'll make a little pouring spout of sorts. Pour the reagent into one vial, put the cap on, and shake it like mad for at least a minute, then LET IT SIT until it is perfectly clear, with no reagent undissolved on the bottom, and NO BUBBLES in the vial. Then turn the colorimeter on, wipe the first vial (with only tank water in it) down with a towel to remove any fingerprints, and put it in. Push the button, and when it says C2, put the vial with the reagent and water in (wiping it down first to remove fingerprints, etc), and HOLD THE BUTTON. This will enable a 3 minute countdown, in which it will test after the 3 minutes. This is to let any more air bubbles dissipate, just in case any were missed before. Once it is done, it will do the test and give you the readout. If you followed those steps, then you will have the most accurate results possible with this meter.
To be frank, you're more than likely doing the test incorrectly, or are not getting all of the reagent powder into the vial, or are not mixing the reagent thoroughly enough, or are not letting every single bubble in the reagent vial dissipate. All of these can separately cause inaccurate readings, any combination will cause incredibly inaccurate and inconsistent results.
To get accurate results, you need to use both vials. Fill both with 10mL of water. Now take your reagent packet and tap into one corner. Cut the packet in half diagonally, and then push those two tips together, and you'll make a little pouring spout of sorts. Pour the reagent into one vial, put the cap on, and shake it like mad for at least a minute, then LET IT SIT until it is perfectly clear, with no reagent undissolved on the bottom, and NO BUBBLES in the vial. Then turn the colorimeter on, wipe the first vial (with only tank water in it) down with a towel to remove any fingerprints, and put it in. Push the button, and when it says C2, put the vial with the reagent and water in (wiping it down first to remove fingerprints, etc), and HOLD THE BUTTON. This will enable a 3 minute countdown, in which it will test after the 3 minutes. This is to let any more air bubbles dissipate, just in case any were missed before. Once it is done, it will do the test and give you the readout. If you followed those steps, then you will have the most accurate results possible with this meter.
mcarroll
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There's a decent chance he's just molted and still hiding. They're elusive even at their most outgoing....especially so after a molt.
And no, unless he was the King of all Emerald Crabs (and/or you had no bio-filter) he wouldn't be enough to cause an ammonia spike anyway. I wouldn't do a thing more about him, just cross your fingers for a reappearance...I might even have left the claws in the tank.
-Matt
