Kai Zen Cube

Exactly, somewhere on the main return line between the T's... preferably a gate valve and it will allow you to tune the flow into the UV you might not even need a gate valve on the outlet atall if you can balance the flow with the one on the main
Roger that.

I don’t think it will TBH and if it does I'm not sure it would put out the 230ish GPH. I mean, it doesn't hurt to try :)

There shall be no "trying"!!! I want it done right, bulletproof as can be, the 1st time. Thats why im spamming my thoughts and plans. So they can be critiqued and tweaked by the pros. Plus all this information will be searchable, and archived for future forums users to research on their own.

Tbh blunt and honest, This RS banner next to my avatar isnt deserving. Im so far from being an expert on anything reefing related. I just go for it most of the time, but this build has to be different. No surprises when i plug it in out west.

One n done i hope. Reefers Prayer.
 
Thanks all who have chipped in so far with help and hole hunting in my plans as this all unfolds. Your knowledge and tips are priceless.

And thanks in advance to all who will slap me in the head in the future and guide me to getting this all as close to perfect as i can.

#r2r4life
 
I whipped up a quick doodle for you...

Ball valves?

Not gate valves to fine tune for targetting algae vs organisms with flow rates through the UV?
 
All of your tuning should be able to be done 100% by the one gate valve on the main return line. You "MIGHT" need to add a second gate valve on the UV entrance but I doubt it.

Say you have 1000 GPH going though the main and you want 300 GPH going through the UV. Well if you close the gate valve on the main 30% you should get roughly 300 GPH diverted to your UV. If you want 500 GPH going through your UV then you close the gate valve 50% and that will let 500GPH through and 500GPH diverted towards the UV. This is just a rough Idea as you'll need to adjust for any additional head losses which can be done with the DC pump :)

Ball valves are strictly for shutting the UV off from the system entirely when you want to remove it for maintenance. That's it. That way you can close the ball valves, take the UV off entirely and run the system normally.
You da man. Thanks brother.

Cheers.
 
20201216_185445.jpg


Starting to look like a system. Nervous about how much this BRS order is gonna be friday night. ;Nailbiting;Muted;Inpain
 
:rolleyes:revised revision:)
WP_20201216_19_15_18_Pro.jpg
Ur going from the RP to the the uv? The RP cant be centered, due to a bubble trap in the rear sump thats also on center. So routing has to start from the left side. Thats why i put 45's to make turns, to help with head loss.
 
Your not?

Whats the holdup here? I would have had water in that things weeks ago! But I tend to rush in head first and figure out what I did wrong as an afterthought.
I am building this system to move it across the country to the Rockies. North of Denver is the target.

Goal is to have a plug-and-play just add water scenario when i land. With a 5 month cure and cycle on the rocks. Will use 9v inverter on the rental truck i drive to keep the brute at temp and circulation the rocks. No fish or coral till the 7 month mark or so.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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