Kurkis493 - 120 gallon SPS system.

Kurkis493

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Background:
I have been in the hobby for over 10 years and over the last couple of years decided to focus my efforts at maintaining an SPS dominate tank. I am a believer in some form of carbon dosing for nutrient control and my first go around at an SPS dominate tank was a 60 cube that utilized bio-pellets.

About 6 months after setting up the tank I moved and lost a majority of my coral. With more space in my home office I decided to go with my current 120 gallon tank and set it up as a Zeovit system. After getting some new fish for the 120 and quarantining them for a couple of months I was finally able to get the new tank going in May, 2014.

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System information:

Tank:
Marineland 120 gallon w/ single overflow
Sump: Trigger Systems Emerald 39
Skimmer: Vertex Omega 150
Reactor:
Return pump:
Eheim 1262
Controller: Apex controller w/ WXM and PM2 modules
Heaters: (2) Eheim Jager 150w
ATO: Tunze Osmolator 3155
Kalk Dosing: Litermeter III w/ Avast Marine kalk stirrer
2-Part Dosing: Apex DOS w/ DDR reservoir
Lightning: ATI Sunpower 8 bulb w/ (2) Actinic Reefbrite Tek LEDs


Sump pics to come.


Stand:
My aquarium is in my home office and sits on a large L desk (10ft x 10ft). The tank side of the desk was made from 2x4s by a friend of mine which I later skinned the inside with white acrylic. The rest of my desk / stand is from Ikea. The entire stand is skinned with Ikea kitchen cabinet panels, doors and uses Ikea kitchen counter-tops. My work desk is made from Ikea kitchen base cabinets.

I really like how things turned out with this idea. It was fairly low cost and the counter tops are very easy to clean-up when I spill water. Once the 2x4 stand was done, it only take a day to put the entire thing together which was nice. If a panel or door gets water damage I can easily replace it with a new one.

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And yes, that is the League of Legends LCS on my monitor. If you play, hit me up.

Fish:
Black Tang
Blue Hippo Tang
Achilles Tang
(2) Premium Picasso Clowns
Borbonius Anthias
Four Line Wrasse
Gold Midas Blenny
Orchid Dottybak
(2) Neon Gobies

I have made a couple of attempts at adding additional fish to the system without much success. The tangs are far too aggressive towards new additions. The last fish added to the system was my Borbonius anthias. I added him along with 5 Dispar anthias. The tangs were so worried about the Dispars that the Borbonius apparently got to slip through the cracks. I've had the Borbonius since early February 2015 and he was added to the tank at the end of March.

As for food, they eat whatever I put in the tank. Primarily NLS pellets which are fed 3x a day. Everyday or so I feed some algae on a clip to the tangs. In an attempt at increasing the nutrients in the system I have been recently feeding mysis or brine as a substitute for one of the pellet feedings.




 
Current bulb configuration (01, 2016):
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aqua Blue Special
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Aqua Blue Special
ATI Blue Plus
ATI Blue Plus

Reefbrite Tek LED Actinics on the front and back of ATI fixture

Lightning Schedule (01, 2016):
Reefbrite LEDs: 10am - 11pm
ATI Blue Plus Bulbs: 12pm - 8pm
ATI Aqua Blue Special Bulbs - 2pm - 5pm

Current Zeovit dosing schedule (01, 2016):

Daily morning dosing:

Zeostart3 - .5ml
Sponge Power - 5 drops
Potassium Iodide Flouride - 3 drops
B-Balance - 2ml

Daily evening dosing:

Skimmer off - 2.5 hours
Coral Vitalizer - 8 drops
Amino Acid Concentrate - 5 drops

Other stuff I dose:

Zeobak - 5 drops 2x weekly
Biomate - 5 drops 2x weekly
Pohls Xtra Special - 5ml 3x weekly
 
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2015 system recap:
Like most systems, the tank started to take off after a year. Once I hit ULNS and the tank stabilized I struggled to find a good dosing schedule when it came to the addition of nutrients and color additives. I copied a couple of other Zeovit user's dosing schedules trying to replicate what they were doing.

I thought my pale corals could have been the result of my lightning so I messed up different bulb combinations a few times.

After trying 2 other people's dosing regiments for 6 months I decided to throttle back on nutrient export all together. I reduced the stones and flow rate through my Zeovit reactor and drastically reduced the amount of Zeostart3 that was being dosed.

Despite my best efforts to get the pastel colors Zeovit systems have I ended up with alot of pale colors. Mind you, the system was doing well, I had great PE and corals were growing at a rate that I was happy with but when I would look at the tank it felt like something was off...

July 31, 2015
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August - September 2015
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And then it all went down hill. I suffered a big alk swing in early September which was caused by a bad decision, bad batch of salt mix and a dosing pump. I ended up suffering burnt tips on nearly all of my acros. Stuff stopped growing which causes unstable alk problems and then stuff started to die.

While I lost alot of pieces, I was able to save several from cutting them back. My colors went from very light to flat brown for awhile. In late November of this past year things started to get back on track again.

November 2015:
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After I suffered the problems I did in September I decided to redo my sump area. I added my Trigger System Emerald sump, replaced my chinese dosing pumps with an Apex DOS and a Litermeter III.

As for Zeovit dosing, I went back to the basics for nutrient control and adjusted my stone amount, reactor flow and Zeostart3 dosing to what the basic instructions say.

In December of this past year I started dosing nutrients again to regain color.
 
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Now that I am caught-up with my old build thread on this forum...

After adding amino acids to my tank for a couple of weeks in December I checked my NO3 for the first time in over a year. It was undetectable. After reading that, I started dosing amino acids on a nightly basis. I checked the NO3 today, still undetectable and if things remain this way until the end of the month I may increase the dosage.

The increase of nutrients so far has had a really positive effect on the tank. After the last couple of weeks things have started to really color-up and the corals that were still damaged from September's issues have started to take a turn for the better.

At the start of this month I reduced the lighting schedule, changed my bulbs and added some led supplement (see my second post for details). With the help of a few people on here I also figured out how to take pictures.

Some of my corals as of today...

Aussie
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CC Walt Disney Jr from their last live sale
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Wild Branching Montipora
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Aussie
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Aussie
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Maricultured - Becoming one of my favorites. Took a longtime for this to color-up.
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Maricultured - Piece was bleached and dying when I got it. I cut-off what looked to be a nice healthy frag and stuck it in the back of the tank in high light and simply forgot about it. I took a picture of it for the first time in over a year and the only way for me to even see this piece is to climb over the front of the tank to look down the back or angle the camera just right. Thank god for coral viewers yeah?
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Aussie
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Aussie - This one is coloring up really, really nice.
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Walt Disney (left) and CC Disney Jr (right)
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Tyree Red Dragon
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$10.00 frag from a guy breaking down his tank a couple years ago
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Aussie Spathulata
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This one keeps changing colors a bit, looking forward to seeing its colors in a month.
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Hi Kirkus,
Wonderful tank and a credit to you, sorry to hear about your issues, however your livestock looks in stunning condition. In regards to taking pictures is there a thread on here that I can look at for some pointers?
Thanks in advance
 
Stunning! I just love it! There is so much going on in the tank. Full stocked haha I love it! I would like to see your sump. Keep up the good work!
 
Hi Kirkus,
Wonderful tank and a credit to you, sorry to hear about your issues, however your livestock looks in stunning condition. In regards to taking pictures is there a thread on here that I can look at for some pointers?
Thanks in advance
Thank you. I would check-out the photography forum, that is where I went. I purchased some macro attachments from Amazon along with an 85 filter which somebody pointed out purchasing for Actinic shots to help offset the blue. It makes a big difference.

I spent time playing with my camera's aperture. I was always getting really dark images and when I started to adjust aperture things seemed to get better. Setting my ISO at 800 seemed to work best. I also found turning off my Vortechs can help along with using a coral viewer... I use an Avast Marine viewer that can attach to my camera so I can keep both hands on the camera which helps me keep things steady.


Stunning! I just love it! There is so much going on in the tank. Full stocked haha I love it! I would like to see your sump. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for the kind words. I'll get a sump pic or two up in the near future.
 
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Welcome and what a gorgeous reef and overall build! Thrilled to have you here!
 
That wild monti is stunning. I've never seen anything with such a deep yellow color. Is it difficult keeping that yellow color?
 
That wild monti is stunning. I've never seen anything with such a deep yellow color. Is it difficult keeping that yellow color?
Good question. I've had the piece for 3 years this April. It has always been yellow for me whether under halides, leds or T5s. I've always kept it high in my tanks (350+ par). I also ran biopellets before switching to Zeovit so my nutrients always remain low in my system. The lack of nutrients along with high par I think helps out. In the past it has been more of a lighter yellow but since dosing aminos over the last few weeks the yellow has gotten deeper.

If you run a lower spectrum then it looks a bit greenish yellow which is to be expected.

I have two pictures of it on this thread. The first one is under an old T5 combo I ran which consisted of 5 blue +, 2 coral + and 1 purple +. If you look close it has this swirly, ooze look to it. In the most recent picture, it was taken under Blue + and Reefbrites and while the leds help pop the yellow more, it seems like the swirly look is gone. I'll have to try another pic of the piece and see if I maybe photographed it at a bad angle.
 
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Good question. I've had the piece for 3 years this April. It has always been yellow for me whether under halides, leds or T5s. I've always kept it high in my tanks (350+ par). I also ran biopellets before switching to Zeovit so my nutrients always remain low in my system. The lack of nutrients along with high par I think helps out. In the past it has been more of a lighter yellow but since dosing aminos over the last few weeks the yellow has gotten deeper.

If you run a lower spectrum then it looks a bit greenish yellow which is to be expected.

I have two pictures of it on this thread. The first one is under an old T5 combo I ran which consisted of 5 blue +, 2 coral + and 1 purple +. If you look close it has this swirly, ooze look to it. In the most recent picture, it was taken under Blue + and Reefbrites and while the leds help pop the yellow more, it seems like the swirly look is gone. I'll have to try another pic of the piece and see if I maybe photographed it at a bad angle.

I didn't even notice that swirling/oozing the first time I saw that picture! It looks amazing with all that swirling. I have a large setosa frag that when I originally bought it had a swirly pattern over its flesh. It was barely noticeable except by looking at it from a certain angle. It seemed the flesh was somewhat transparent, causing the swirling pattern. Nothing like that ridiculousness you have. I just wonder if this is a trait for certain Montipora. If you are ever looking to sell frags of the yellow Montipora, I would love to buy one.
 

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