Large Aquarium Build Advice Needed

[rwreef]

Autocad is awesome.
Had Autocad Light for several years.
Went to a training class, got through it but was admittedly overwhelmed.
Have not used it now for some 3 years now and would not remember how to draw a line now lol.

Very powerful program. As an Engineer I use it along with other CAD programs daily. I started off hand drafting!! Haha so I'm glad CAD exists.

 

[Caseyz]

Ok so now I am going to be controversial.
My rule of thumb. Is better to have and not need than to need and not have.

Check valves yes are a flip of the coin. If your returns are so deep in the tank they will siphon enough to water out to overflow the sump well thats the only consideration to have them. What is plumbed right? You wont know until test time.

As far as the gate valves on every line. Well yes you can be selective.
But this is where I am a fan of having them. Never know what adjustments may be needed. You maybwant to ballance the drain lines to control noise.
You may have to only use one drain line and have to slow it down but wont be able to if its not there. I know this is doubtfull but on occasion it does.
What if the in tank overflow box leaks or cracks at the bottom. Be nice to shut the drains off.
Yes its an expense and all but its also a failsafe.
On my next build I intend on having a ball valve followed with a gate valve.
The gate valves are best for tuning, the ball valves are best for a 1/4 turn and its closed off in a second. Less water on the floor.

Hmm, nothing like a little bit of controversy! I can see adding in another gate valve on the siphon overflow for tuning just in case. I can't imagine why I would want one on the emergency overflow return though. As far as the return lines, I had planned on using lock line in the tank and having them right at the surface so there should be little back siphoning on a power failure or return pump off situation. I could see a reason to have a ball valve as a way to have emergency backup if there is too much siphoning out of the tank on power fail, but in my experience ball valves become almost impossible to turn over time. I would worry more about the torque required to turn the valve damaging other plumbing connections. Thoughts? Maybe skip the ball valves on the returns and just have check valves as the fail safe?

 

[K7BMG]

Hmm, nothing like a little bit of controversy! I can see adding in another gate valve on the siphon overflow for tuning just in case. I can't imagine why I would want one on the emergency overflow return though. As far as the return lines, I had planned on using lock line in the tank and having them right at the surface so there should be little back siphoning on a power failure or return pump off situation. I could see a reason to have a ball valve as a way to have emergency backup if there is too much siphoning out of the tank on power fail, but in my experience ball valves become almost impossible to turn over time. I would worry more about the torque required to turn the valve damaging other plumbing connections. Thoughts? Maybe skip the ball valves on the returns and just have check valves as the fail safe?

I would only be concerned if the cheap white valves are used, I have found these to freeze up and require lots of leverage.

If you use schedule 80 true union ball and gate valves this is a non issue.

As you dont have an internal overflow, even I would not put one on the emergency drain. Bit if you had designed an internal overflow with holes in the bottom of the tank you can bet I would have ball valves on everything.

 

[K7BMG]

Another thing I do.
As you can with the Apex.
I have a breakout box connected to a float switch.
The float switch is located in the display tank.
If the tank gets close to and overflow the Apex is programmed to shut off all pumps feeding the tank, and has an alarm.
This saved my but twice so far.

 

[Caseyz]

I would only be concerned if the cheap white valves are used, I have found these to freeze up and require lots of leverage.

If you use schedule 80 true union ball and gate valves this is a non issue.

As you dont have an internal overflow, even I would not put one on the emergency drain. Bit if you had designed an internal overflow with holes in the bottom of the tank you can bet I would have ball valves on everything.

Ok, so something more like the below with schedule 80 union ball valves on the return, an extra gate valve for the overflow siphon and check valves on the main returns. This seems like more of a belt and suspenders design. Which isn't a bad thing.

 

[Caseyz]

Another thing I do.
As you can with the Apex.
I have a breakout box connected to a float switch.
The float switch is located in the display tank.
If the tank gets close to and overflow the Apex is programmed to shut off all pumps feeding the tank, and has an alarm.
This saved my but twice so far.

Really good idea, those switches are pretty cheap. How about one in the tank, two in the return pump chamber for a high/low warning and one in the ATO tank as a low level warning there? Something like the images below. I could 3D print some mounting brackets I am sure.

 

[K7BMG]

I use these from Amazon.
Could not copy the link for some unknown reason, but this is the description.
I have them in my dosing containers to let me know when liquids are low as well.

Anndason 6 Pieces Plastic PP Float Switch Fish Tank Liquid Water Level Sensor,Model: DP5200

 

[Caseyz]

A little more wisdom need here. I want to allow for a UV Sterilizer on my system for possible future use on disease management. Due to mounting constraints it really doesn't fit well in my sump and I don't want it on the overflow lines as it would restrict flow which I would like to avoid. The Sterilizer I am planing on using is the AU 57 watt unit which can be found at the following link.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/57-watt-classic-uv-sterilizer-black-body-aqua-ultraviolet.html

It is rated at 1066GPH flow. I plan on running dual Vectra M2's on my return lines and they have a flow of ~1200 GPH at the head pressure I am looking at and they can be tuned down for less flow if needed. Therefore the best place to put the sterilizer is on one of my return lines. The best way I can see to install it is to have it in line on a return with unions so that I can easily get it out for maintenance or if I choose to replace it or delete it at some point.

My question to you folks is, is this the best way to go about doing this? Is there another way I should consider? Drawing below for illustration purposes. Any feedback is welcome.

 

[Caseyz]

Update to my design thread. Changed to an 80 watt UV Sterilizer based on advice from another thread. Updated equipment list and drawings below. One question I have is 4x XR30 G5's enough light for this 84" tank or do I need more? This tank is going to be SPS heavy.