leopard wrass acting weird

[Jsieger89]

so i habe a leopard wrass in qt for a month. 2 days ago i notice him wedgeing himself in small cracks and breathing very heavily. Yesterday he responded to food and ate a little bit today he did not. no other symptoms i can tell. the midas blenny he is in there with us kinda on the bossy side. is it possible he is just severed if the midas.

i think his gills look a little red. is this the normal color of leopard wrasses gills?

 

[Big G]

The Leopard Wrasse experts: @HotRocks @4FordFamily

 

[4FordFamily]

Do you have an ammonia alert badge? Red gills are often ammonia.

Did you dose bio spira or beneficial bacteria in the QT to prevent ammonia from remaining ammonia?

Any meds used?

Midas can be very aggressive at times. It’s possible that bullying is a contributor.

 

[Jsieger89]

thanks.a other note

i habe rubs of sand in qt but he chooses to hide in the corner behind heater or inbetween glass and tub of sand. just a observation that doesent make since

 

[Jsieger89]

i do have a ammonia badge. it shows me in the good zone. i do also use a bacteria product and wc as well.

 

[Jsieger89]

should i dose a little prime? no meds are being used at this time

 

[4FordFamily]

thanks.a other note

i habe rubs of sand in qt but he chooses to hide in the corner behind heater or inbetween glass and tub of sand. just a observation that doesent make since

Have you done a freshwater dip in a dark bucket to look for flukes? Make sure you match temp.

Also leopards are very prone to internal parasites, IMO as soon as they eat they should be fed general cure and focus soaked foods for 14 days to try to clear out all the nasties..

 

[4FordFamily]

should i dose a little prime?

No, if your ammonia badge indicates your safe and it’s not old and hasn’t run dry you’re probably fine on ammonia.

 

[Jsieger89]

ok i just did a 30% wc and i habe meds but not focus to bind. so i will feed go as soon as focus gets here.

 

[Frtdrmrose7]

I had a couple Halichoeres wrasses in QT and offered them sand in the corner after copper and it took them a week to figure it out so that may not be an issue.

 

[Jsieger89]

I had a couple Halichoeres wrasses in QT and offered them sand in the corner after copper and it took them a week to figure it out so that may not be an issue.

thanks for the i fo. he has slept in sand for 4 weeks now thow so somthing has recently changed.

 

[Jsieger89]

Have you done a freshwater dip in a dark bucket to look for flukes? Make sure you match temp.

Also leopards are very prone to internal parasites, IMO as soon as they eat they should be fed general cure and focus soaked foods for 14 days to try to clear out all the nasties..

do you think i should do a freshwater dip now? i’m
worried about adding stress to the stressed fish but i blindly trust you. lol i am
getting a game plan together for a system to bringing new fish in and how to medicate them but i find my self scared to pull the trigger and just end up observing them in qt. should i pull fish out and fw dip? or weight it out and see if i can get him to eat some gc once i get my focus?

i habe 2 qt. 10 gal i bring fish from 1.018 to 1.025. currently the ten gal has 2 leopards and 2 midas blennies in it with a clear devider. the bigger healthier leopard is in first chamber with smaller / skinner less colorful blenny. the leopard that is acting weird is in back chamber with bigger more colorful and meaner blenny. i’m considering moving the big blenny and big leopard to the 55 gal qt that currently has a kohl tang emporior angel and potters angel in it. that would keep the fish from seeing another one of itself with only a piece of acrilick between them and may reduse stress. i’m worried about moving somthing over to that tank thow. again find my self stuck observing scrared to take action.

 

[Frtdrmrose7]

thanks for the i fo. he has slept in sand for 4 weeks now thow so somthing has recently changed.

If he is now staying out of the sand I would probably rule out bullying. I’m not saying it isn’t a possibility but when they feel threatened that’s where they go.

 

[Frtdrmrose7]

do you think i should do a freshwater dip now? i’m
worried about adding stress to the stressed fish but i blindly trust you. lol i am
getting a game plan together for a system to bringing new fish in and how to medicate them but i find my self scared to pull the trigger and just end up observing them in qt. should i pull fish out and fw dip? or weight it out and see if i can get him to eat some gc once i get my focus?

i habe 2 qt. 10 gal i bring fish from 1.018 to 1.025. currently the ten gal has 2 leopards and 2 midas blennies in it with a clear devider. the bigger healthier leopard is in first chamber with smaller / skinner less colorful blenny. the leopard that is acting weird is in back chamber with bigger more colorful and meaner blenny. i’m considering moving the big blenny and big leopard to the 55 gal qt that currently has a kohl tang emporior angel and potters angel in it. that would keep the fish from seeing another one of itself with only a piece of acrilick between them and may reduse stress. i’m worried about moving somthing over to that tank thow. again find my self stuck observing scrared to take action.

I know Wrasses can and will carry disease and not show it until it completely overwhelms them. If the fish still appears strong I would do a FW dip for two reasons 1) check for flukes 2) if this is velvet in his gills you may buy him some time. But let’s see what @4FordFamily says also.

 

[lolmatt]

FW dip is a good bet. Here's a guide:

https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/video-how-to-do-a-freshwater-dip.214/

Flukes can look like small contact lenses. Alternatively you could treat the tank with prazipro as it's quite reef safe. If you treat with prazi run your skimmer with the cup off or run some airlines for 3 days, and dose a second time a week later.

 

[HotRocks]

It really could be anything being that the fish wasn't treated. Almost every leopard I have treated recently comes in with intestinal parasites or worms. I start them on medicated food immediately.

Observational QT on macropharyngodon wrasses and most other genus is tough. They are pretty resistant to most diseases and hardly ever show physical symptoms even though they may have an affliction.

 

[Jsieger89]

It really could be anything being that the fish wasn't treated. Almost every leopard I have treated recently comes in with intestinal parasites or worms. I start them on medicated food immediately.

Observational QT on macropharyngodon wrasses and most other genus is tough. They are pretty resistant to most diseases and hardly ever show physical symptoms even though they may have an affliction.

so what’s my best bet now? fw dip copper and gc with focus? all 3 at once? or in what order?

 

[HotRocks]

so what’s my best bet now? fw dip copper and gc with focus? all 3 at once? or in what order?

Personally if the fish isn't doing too well I wouldn't hit them with everything all at once.

I would start feeding medicated food ASAP.

FW dip will confirm if flukes are present or not as well as provide temporary relief from ich/velvet if they are present.

Then I would slowly ramp up copper.

 

[Jsieger89]

Personally if the fish isn't doing too well I wouldn't hit them with everything all at once.

I would start feeding medicated food ASAP.

FW dip will confirm if flukes are present or not as well as provide temporary relief from ich/velvet if they are present.

Then I would slowly ramp up copper.

can i feed medicated food with out focus? i have general cure metroplex kanaplex for antibiotics also prazipro chloroquine phosphate copper safe

 

[Frtdrmrose7]

can i feed medicated food with out focus? i have general cure metroplex kanaplex for antibiotics also prazipro chloroquine phosphate copper safe

Focus is the binding agent to keep the meds in the food