I've got 14x 39w over my 180g and coloring sps is no problem. How's you No3, Po4?
I've never had an issue with NO3 or PO4......they were always 0, so I started adding aminos to my tank until it caused a cyano outbreak.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
I've got 14x 39w over my 180g and coloring sps is no problem. How's you No3, Po4?
can you give some info on tank lighting filtration dosing and how long its been running that's the most beautiful tank iv seen in a very long time !
can you give some info on tank lighting filtration dosing and how long its been running that's the most beautiful tank iv seen in a very long time !
I've never had an issue with NO3 or PO4......they were always 0, so I started adding aminos to my tank until it caused a cyano outbreak.
Are your bulbs being overdriven? I assume since you are using an ATI fixture you are using ATI bulbs. Are your corals brown or pale? What salt are you using? How is your Potassium level? Mg level? How many fish to do you have? How often do you feed? Aminos may help if you have a lack of nutrients. Just cut back on the dosing by half until cyan goes away.
Here is some info about coloring SPS:
Yellows
Highly dependent on Nitrate and PO4 levels. Of course all SPS colors are highly dependent on lack of N and P so I wanted to start with probably the easiest color to get, yellow. Yellows are sort of you baseline; yellows will tell you a lot about what is going on in your tank, what is needed and what is overdosed. Nitrate and/or PO4 reduction is most important, either through technical means such as nitrate/phosphate reducers or biologically through DSB, Carbon dosing and/or water changes and fuges. Basically, if you want to do SPS, I would suggest starting with an acropora that is yellow. If you can get it to say yellow for several months, you should be ready for something else.
Greens
Greens would be the next easiest color to tweak. Most green coloration can be achieved through the addition of an Iron Concentrate (Kents is what I use, however Iron is Iron). You must be very careful with Iron because it is also an Algae accelerator; this is why it is so important for you to get your yellows colors first (your N and P will be lowered).
Additionally, I use my yellows as indicators for my greens and blues. You’ll notice a deficiancy if your greens are brown color or they are paling in color. I start off by dosing Iron at about 1 drop per 50 usg twice a week and take note of what happens, color changes, Algae growth, until my yellow acroporas display a green shimmer (it wont be a solid green but a shimmer of a green/yellow).
Please note, a sign of overdosing is a darkening of tissue, when this happens you have added too much iron or too much iron is being added. Another sign of overdosing is Algae growth, stop immediately and possibly do a water change if necessary. Like everything else reef, go slowly.
Blues and some purples
This is mainly for blues but I have found is can also have an effect on purples. The supplement for this is Potassium Iodide Concentrate or Lugol’s solution, ESV Potassium Iodide Concentrate will also work; don’t just get something that says Potassium because that is a little different. Dosing should be done when blue colors become less intense. Again, using yellow corals as indicators, stop dosing when yellow corals display a green shimmer.
Reds/Pinks and some Purples
Primarily for coloring reds and pinks in Montiporas, Pocilloporas, Birdsnest, other Stys and Seriatoporas. The supplement is Potassium (not potassium iodide). If you are using a high potassium salt mix such as Oceanic, Tropical Marine Pro and you are doing regular water changes, you are more than likely not going to need to supplement this much.
For dosing you can use your monitporas, especially caps as indicators. Supplementing is required when Montiporas display slower growth and appear washed out to grey appearance. Indicators on Stys and Pocs are when they look like they have been exposed to air. Polyps are completely withdrawn and colors are light. Other indicators of potassium deficiency is when the pinks turn into a light brown and when acroporas loose their color and get lighter and pale. A major potassium deficiency is seen when tissue is lost, mostly starting from the base opposed to spotting (patchy look). And overdose can lead to tip burning so don’t mistake tip burn for new growth. Tips burns will be white with no polyps.
Purples
Probably one of the hardest coloration of all acroporas from my experience since it is a combination of several variables.
First and foremost is water clarity, which means Carbon and/or filter socks. I have also had good result from biological filters such as using cryptic zones, which produce seasquirts, sponges and other filter feeding animals. Zeo Sponge Power, which can be used in any system, feeds sponges. Sponges are great because they can filter a mass amount of water for better water clarity.
From what I have noted, increased water clarify will first effect SPS tips but not the complete base. I have seen nana and valida with really nice purple tips but brown/tan/white bases. I have seen the same nana and valida in another’s tanks, which met all other parameters with a full purple from base to tip.
Second being lighting. From my observations of my own tank and others, purples seem to love 420-440nm range light spectrum, those found in actinics and 20K halides. Some of the best purples I have seen are in tanks that have 440nm blue actinics (ATI Blue+, Giessman Actinic) or 20K Halides (Radium, XM 20K).
Third, supplements such as Iodide and Potassium (see blues and Reds/Pinks). Again, make sure your greens are green and yellows are yellow. Your blue should be bright with depth. Iodide will also help if you have tip burn.
These are just my observations through testing and I am sure in the future other factors will be seen and added. Please feel free to comment with your own observations, data is very important to moving forward.[/QUOTE
Thanks for the awesome info will use this info as a guideline for keeping sps, greatly appreciate it.
note ll
Here's mine with the ATI Hybrid 8x80W + 4x75W dimmable. It's a beautiful light unit. http://s410.photobucket.com/user/alphasierra99/media/IMG_0124_zps38474f68.jpg.html http://s410.photobucket.com/user/alphasierra99/media/IMG_0146_zpsa5652f34.jpg.html
Thank you!
75 gal. Been up just over 2 yrs. ATI t5, cal reactor. Just added ecobak pellets. Hopefully the tank does well with it.
Wow this tank is amazing! Where is the build thread?
When I first seen this post I was like that tank looks familiar...then I checked you screen name and was like no wonder...is crazy how your scape looks so similar to your old one but minimal this time...I have always been a fan of your tank...I always noticed how close you run your lights...does it take a lot of acclimating? Also what bulb combo and how long do you run them for?
Leds are the way to go technology is already here. If you want to grow sps corals leds will provide the best spectrum you can get. T5 lighting is okay but leds provide much more.
How well do you think this media is working ? I remember back in the 90's when I was very active with the hobby, that a lot of company's had media's to solve all the problems in the world, but just added problems. Julian Sprung was a oviduct with these chemicals, mostly using activated carbon and not like phosphate removers,... etc. I'm NOT,.....wanting to be disrespectful, just wanting proof that this works without causing issues with the inhabitants & water quality.
There's plenty of T5 combos that work and each individual has their own tastes............it's all good.

