Lineatus Wrasse needs help please

[Swimmingdork]

Hello. I got my Lineatus wrasse almost 2 weeks ago from a LFS. He has been in my QT with a couple other wrasses I bought on divers den. They all went into QT at the same time. The Lineatus was eating like a complete pig for the first week.

On Wednesday the 14th I noticed he had white markings on both his sides and he had flashed against the pvc pipe a couple times. A couple of scales were on the floor of the QT. He wasn't very interested in food. I dosed the QT with Rally Ruby Reef over the next 3 days, as advised on the bottle. On the second day of dosing, his appetite had returned. I didn't dose the tank Saturday or Sunday since he seemed to be doing better and the bottle said to dose for 3 days. He was eating fine again and didn't look worse.

This morning I woke up to him laying on his side, breathing heavily, and looking worse. He hasn't eaten food all day. I dosed the tank again in the morning with the Rally Ruby Reef. I was going to dose his food with metroplex, kanaplex, and focus, but haven't since he isn't eating. I was thinking he might have some kind of bacterial infection, but I don't know.

Is there anything else I can do for him? I have a number of medications on hand such as cupramine, furan-2, general cure, prazipro, ich attack, maracide, melafix, pimafix, maracyn oxy, methylene blue, and quick cure.

The first 2 pictures are from Friday. The other 3 are from this evening. Thank you for the help.

 

[jda]

Do you have a container of sand in there for them? Are you medicating? Reef-safe wrasses do not usually QT that well since some like to dive into the sand for comfort and can beat themselves up trying to hide... and they do not do well with medicine or hypo.

I do not quarantine flashers, fairies or leopards... straight in they go and I take my chances.

I do not have any good ideas except for maybe a container of fine sand. I hope that it makes it.

 

[ZachR32]

Need the #reefsquad in here to help save this beauty. I'd assume bacterial infection but don't know what's the best treatment route

 

[redfishbluefish]

Oh my! @Humblefish , @melypr1985 , @4FordFamily , @Brew12 .....can you guys help here? Thanks.

 

[Brew12]

I wish I could, poor little guy.

I know @evolved has been on and he is an absolute wrasse expert. Maybe he can help!

 

[4FordFamily]

That’s a bacterial infection. Unfortunately it wasn’t wiped out the first time. This will require fast action of metroplex, kanaplex, and furan 2 in quarantine. Do a 100% water change first.

An acriflavine bath would be ideal prior to quarantine as well.

That might be gram negative so time is of the essence.

 

[Swimmingdork]

Thank you guys a lot. I am really worried about him.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

It looks like some kind of infection. @Humblefish

 

[Swimmingdork]

That’s a bacterial infection. Unfortunately it wasn’t wiped out the first time. This will require fast action of metroplex, kanaplex, and furan 2 in quarantine. Do a 100% water change first.

An acriflavine bath would be ideal prior to quarantine as well.

That might be gram negative so time is of the essence.

I only have a little more than a gallon of saltwater on hand. I buy natural seawater from LFS. Should I move him to the bucket of saltwater and treat him in the bucket alone?

Do you think the bacterial infection could be contagious? I also have a blue linespot flasher and Tanaka wrasse in there with him. The linespot has been on his side all day today too, but doesn't have any kind of markings on him. He was also eating fine until today. The Tanaka wrasse is still acting normal.

 

[Greenstreet.1]

I would treat all cause if they eat the poop they also will have the infection

 

[Deinonych]

Do you have a container of sand in there for them? Are you medicating? Reef-safe wrasses do not usually QT that well since some like to dive into the sand for comfort and can beat themselves up trying to hide... and they do not do well with medicine or hypo.

I do not quarantine flashers, fairies or leopards... straight in they go and I take my chances.

I do not have any good ideas except for maybe a container of fine sand. I hope that it makes it.

Fairy wrasses do not bury in the sand.

Agree with @4FordFamily on this being bacterial. Since the Linespot and the Tanaka's share the same tank, you should treat them all to make sure.

 

[4FordFamily]

Fairy wrasses do not bury in the sand.

Agree with @4FordFamily on this being bacterial. Since the Linespot and the Tanaka's share the same tank, you should treat them all to make sure.

Agreed.

Now I am wondering if you have velvet or something and the infection is a secondary bacterial infection resulting from parasite insertion points. Any spots on the fish?

 

[Swimmingdork]

Agreed.

Now I am wondering if you have velvet or something and the infection is a secondary bacterial infection resulting from parasite insertion points. Any spots on the fish?

No. There are not any spots. He hasn't had any white spots on him at all. It started out as the white markings on both sides of his body and on his caudal peduncle, possibly from the removal of his scales.

 

[4FordFamily]

No. There are not any spots. He hasn't had any white spots on him at all. It started out as the white markings on both sides of his body and on his caudal peduncle, possibly from the removal of his scales.

Probably just an infection then, somewhat odd that they both contract it like that but it’s certainly not impossible.

 

[melypr1985]

This will require fast action of metroplex, kanaplex, and furan 2 in quarantine. Do a 100% water change first.

This ^^ The acriflavin bath before hand will be good as well. Ruby Reef Rally is done best in a bath, then straight into the QT with the three meds already dosed.

 

[Humblefish]

Very likely a gram negative bacterial infection: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bacterial-infections.191511/

Very difficult to treat unless caught early on.

 

[Swimmingdork]

This ^^ The acriflavin bath before hand will be good as well. Ruby Reef Rally is done best in a bath, then straight into the QT with the three meds already dosed.

What ratio of water to acriflavin would you recommend? How long would you do the bath for? Since Ruby Reef Rally contains acriflavin, should I go ahead and use that in the bath or do you think I should go buy Acriflavine-MS?

 

[Big G]

What ratio of water to acriflavin would you recommend? How long would you do the bath for? Since Ruby Reef Rally contains acriflavin, should I go ahead and use that in the bath or do you think I should go buy Acriflavine-MS?

From Humblefish's Treatment advisory:

Acriflavine: This is an antiseptic that is very useful for rendering “first aid” if a fish has a bacterial infection or to treat an open wound. It can also be used as part of a “three step program” for treating Marine Velvet Disease: 5 minute freshwater dip, 75-90 minute acriflavine bath, and then prolonged exposure to copper or Chloroquine phosphate in a Quarantine Tank (QT).

There is also some anecdotal evidence that a 75-90 minute acriflavine bath, followed by transfer into a sterile Quarantine Tank can clear Brooklynella aka clownfish disease. However, until more research is done it is recommended to follow up the acriflavine bath by treating with metronidazole in the Quarantine Tank.

How To Treat – At present time there are two products on the market which contain acriflavine (dosage information below). Use either in a 75-90 minute bath, temperature controlling the water and providing plenty of aeration by using an air pump & air-stone. Ensure salinity, pH and temperature of bath & QT water match perfectly.

Acriflavine-MS: Add 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water.

Ruby Reef Rally: Add 1 ounce per 10 gallons of water. This breaks down to roughly 2/3 teaspoon of Rally per gallon if using less than 10 gallons.

Pros – Effective “pre-treatment” before fish is placed in QT with copper, antibiotics, etc.; milder/safer alternative to using formalin.

Cons/Side Effects – Turns the water an orange-brownish color, so probably not desirable for Quarantine or Display Tank use. Full range of positive effects and possible side effects are not completely understood at this time.

 

[Swimmingdork]

Very likely a gram negative bacterial infection: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bacterial-infections.191511/

Very difficult to treat unless caught early on.

I am hoping it's not too late by the time I get the new water in the morning. Thank you for all of your helpful information. I stocked up a couple months ago on all the essentials you recommended in your medications to keep on hand post. You helped me in being more prepared in this unfortunate situation.

 

[Swimmingdork]

From Humblefish's Treatment advisory:

Acriflavine: This is an antiseptic that is very useful for rendering “first aid” if a fish has a bacterial infection or to treat an open wound. It can also be used as part of a “three step program” for treating Marine Velvet Disease: 5 minute freshwater dip, 75-90 minute acriflavine bath, and then prolonged exposure to copper or Chloroquine phosphate in a Quarantine Tank (QT).

There is also some anecdotal evidence that a 75-90 minute acriflavine bath, followed by transfer into a sterile Quarantine Tank can clear Brooklynella aka clownfish disease. However, until more research is done it is recommended to follow up the acriflavine bath by treating with metronidazole in the Quarantine Tank.

How To Treat – At present time there are two products on the market which contain acriflavine (dosage information below). Use either in a 75-90 minute bath, temperature controlling the water and providing plenty of aeration by using an air pump & air-stone. Ensure salinity, pH and temperature of bath & QT water match perfectly.

Acriflavine-MS: Add 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water.

Ruby Reef Rally: Add 1 ounce per 10 gallons of water. This breaks down to roughly 2/3 teaspoon of Rally per gallon if using less than 10 gallons.

Pros – Effective “pre-treatment” before fish is placed in QT with copper, antibiotics, etc.; milder/safer alternative to using formalin.

Cons/Side Effects – Turns the water an orange-brownish color, so probably not desirable for Quarantine or Display Tank use. Full range of positive effects and possible side effects are not completely understood at this time.

Thank you very much!