Live rock and dry rock.

sredzins

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So I am still fighting this cyano and algae outbreak. And I have known I need more rock in my tank. I have about 30 lbs of live rock in my 50 gallon currently. I want to add more, would it make a difference in the long run if I buy live or dry now? Because dry rock is about a quarter the price.

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If your cycling your tank right now adding the rest of your dry rock will basically start the cycle all over again, new surface space new bacteria etc etc. So might as well get it out of the way. If you can with stand your pockets getting hit trying finishing with half and half give it a good kickstart.
 
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Since you have live rock now adding dry rock will be fine. You have beneficial bacteria already and it will colonize onto the new rock. Make sure you have good circulation and don't overfeed and the algae should go away soon.
 
That's what I have been dojng. I bought a skimmer to help as well. I'm not sure where the phosphates are coming from since I don't feed all to much. I did blow off my rock work with a turkey baster and all kinda of poop and other gunk blew off

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Correct me if i am wrong but i believe adding dryrock to a system that has been running and is already cycled that it could put alot of ammonia in the water and harm the inhabitants?? Just a Thought.. i have never personally added dry rock without curing it a seperate system first, or just buy Rock already cured from LFS or Craiglist or Local Reefer?
 
This is what I've heard too. I might cycle it in a bucket or something with some old water

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Why would dry rock produce ammonia, it has nothing on it that would decay. If you are having trouble with phosphates what water are you using? Have you tested it for phospshates?
 
Or u could use dry marco rock, which have heard has no die off and dosent cycle if iam sayn this correctly...has been tested by a couple lfs in area ...

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Why would dry rock produce ammonia, it has nothing on it that would decay. If you are having trouble with phosphates what water are you using? Have you tested it for phospshates?

The Dry rock will begin to cycle..Ammonia- Nitrite - Nitrate
 
So I am still fighting this cyano and algae outbreak. And I have known I need more rock in my tank. I have about 30 lbs of live rock in my 50 gallon currently. I want to add more, would it make a difference in the long run if I buy live or dry now? Because dry rock is about a quarter the price.

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You should blackout you tank to kill the cyano...new rock is going to do nothing but give it more ground to grow. I would STRONGLY suggest getting algae under control, then add dry rock. It won't wack the cycle. Dead rock is rock. . Ps. A good coraline coverage will also limit space of cyano to grow. Just sayin.
 
i believe cyano is more a bacteria than a algae.. caused by high nutrient and low flow,etc. Somebody please correct me if wrong
 
Yea, Cyano is a bacteria, having to do with a few things, including flow, nutrients and silicates in the system. Adding rock could have brought something with it.
 
You should blackout you tank to kill the cyano...new rock is going to do nothing but give it more ground to grow. I would STRONGLY suggest getting algae under control, then add dry rock. It won't wack the cycle. Dead rock is rock. . Ps. A good coraline coverage will also limit space of cyano to grow. Just sayin.
Ah, but if to much rock is added at one time, it can indeed throw th tank into a mini cycle, as the bacteria will start growing on this portion of the rock.
Cyano doesn't care if Coralline is on the rock or not. It will grow where ever it will grow.
 
I use ro/di mixed with reef crystals. I don't have a test for phosphate but I assumed the cyano is from phosphates. Won't more live rock help with the biological filtration?

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That's where I don't know where my problem with the cyano is coming from... my tank has a 750 and a 425 Koralia, a 200 gph pump going through the five and then the skimmer, so the turnover is plenty. And I barely feed and have been keeping my lights on 8 or 9 hours a day. Weekly 10% water changes as well.

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Mean copa, my hair splitting friends...look ma i made a pun! yes it is a bacteria that does act like an algae. I was trying to keep it simple. The photphates can be one part of the problem...or source, but if you blackout, control the nutrients and physically remove as much as possible you can control. Phosphates are the devil, yet can in fact test false-zero....because Cyano will be using them....**** you cycle of life.

Water changes with cyano can actual provide additional nutrients to help it grow if you don't pretest your water source.(debate here)

Additional live rock will only provide additional surface area to grow in the current condition. Yes (IMO) it will be long term benificial to have more live rock (even more debate will ensue now)...but it will not be a magic eraser for the existing sexy cyano.
 
I just meant that's I keep up on water changes. But I just added a skimmer last week. So not having one since January, might have added to the problem. Its pulling out dark dark skimmate every day and the cyano is starting to die slowly. I don't want to pull out all my rocks and scrub them. Every time I lift a rock out of the water There are little critters crawling on it and I don't want to scrub those off as well. But if I black out my tank, what do I do with my corals?

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You can black the tank out for 3 days without issues to the corals. Watch the skimmer on the 3rd day, it will pull out the garbage on that day, keep it clean.
 
I'll give that a shot. I'm really new to sps, well any corals for that matter, so I didn't want to turn the lights off on them for to ling

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Cyano aka Cyanobacteria or red slime. Start with one step they try the other. First there has to be excess nutrients in your system otherwise it would not grow. This also goes for algae. Nutrients: Phosphates (PO4), DOCs (Dissolved Organic Compounds), and nitrates (NO3) are primary nutrient food sources for red and other slime algae. I would test the tank water (although it may not always show high levels of any Phosphates or Nitrates because they have been used up by the algae) and also test your fresh salt water you mix up. Are you using RODI for it?
3 days with out lights will help control the cyano. But as everyone was saying it is most likely from excess nutrients in the water. So you need to look at how they are getting into the tank and reduce that. Could be from excess feedings of livestock, or from poor quality of water used for top off/water changes.

The addition of dry rock now will only complicate issues within your tank right now. With any rock you add to your system you don't know if it will add any excess nutrients and start the cycle over again. You would best off if you could take the rock and in a small tub with a power head and fresh salt water and let it sit for a week and test the levels. If it shows any PO4, ammonia, nitrates, nitrites then think of what you avoided added to your tank. If the PO4's are high then you may want to look at giving the rock an acid bath to remove it. Anything with ammonia, nitrate, nitrites just means the rock wasn't as clean as you though. Easier of the 2 issues to deal with, just let the rock continue to cycle before you add it to your tank. If the levels come back low then go ahead and add them to your tank.
 

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