Metal Halides are the bomb

[i_declare_bankruptcy]

If you prefer the look of the halides then for sure go with halides. You would not need the bigger reflectors because you will raise them up in your shallow tank and they light will spread out more. Also, you would be shocked at how little the primes put out.

Any recommendations on hardware? 150W or 250W? Not trying to have 300 PAR at the sand bed LOL (would prefer low 100's). Can always raise the light up but don't want them 20" off the surface of the tank blinding me lol

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

They are bright but they are not laser beams. Lol. You have a big area so I would say 250 fo sure.

 

[Backreefing]

A small update. Dispite earlier a month ago haveing a alkalinity roller coaster ( nearly killing my birdsnests ) things are humming along nicely. Especially now I have alkalinity and calcium dialed in . The halides are the bomb I don’t care what led guys think . Check out this Boomberry acropora from boom corals growth from 2/09/20 till 3/22/20

 

[A. grandis]

BoomBerry is really boombing. LOL!
Great pictures of a very nice Acropora! Looks amazing!
Thanks for sharing!!

 

[Backreefing]

I noticed that all the growth is sideways like a plate . Nothing upward. Maybe it is going to table out ? Maybe Quin can let us know if it tables , or I’ll just wait and see .

 

[A. grandis]

Intensity is what keeps the plate shape in most table species. The photoperiod, wattage, reflector, spectrum, age of the bulb, distance, water motion and water chemistry all play with that. It's going to do what the environment allows it to do. If you think too much about all that, it's going to be hard to make all corals in the systems growing as you want at all time because all the variables have changes with the age of the system and the space available. Part of the art. I wouldn't worry too much about all that. The colony looks great under the light you've got. Keep param stable and enjoy it!!

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

A small update. Dispite earlier a month ago haveing a alkalinity roller coaster ( nearly killing my birdsnests ) things are humming along nicely. Especially now I have alkalinity and calcium dialed in . The halides are the bomb I don’t care what led guys think . Check out this Boomberry acropora from boom corals growth from 2/09/20 till 3/22/20

Shhh... it is just are little secret. the LED fan boys don't listen anyways so whatevs..

 

[Torontotraders]

I will say this, I am a pretty smart guy and ran a commercial grow facility for about 5 years. We spent a LOT of time testing bulbs, reflectors, different combinations of lights. The LED guys were pushing us HARD to invest in LED. I spent on average about $9,000 /month on electricity. Two 3 phase 600 amp panels maxed out plus a third 240 400 amo panel.

Anyways, save 4k a month on power? Sure I will bite. The par numbers looked good, as did the wavelength. First trial was aweful. We doubled the wattage. Meah.. about the same as the HPS in terms of quantity but the aromatics were not there.

Finally I made my own units. Highest quality bin LED, meanwell drivers, huge heat sinks. They were blindingly brite, I thought this is it! We put those units against a 1,000 HPS bulbs, exact same strain, co2, nutrients, everything. It came in with 30% less yield.

So, right then and there I never looked back. Corals and plants are both photosynthetic although they use different wavelengths. I kind of laughed when LED manufacturers were creating little pucks to light wide areas? Why? For less disco affect I guess. It just doesnt align with the physics of light energy and the whole inverse square thing.

Form factor is definately a win for LED, as is the heat thing. Hawaii and halides... ummm no. Simplicity.. MH is a BIG win. It doesnt work? It's the bulb or the ballast, either one is less than $100.

And BTW.. quit spending money on "aquarium" ballasts. You can get much higher quality digital ballasts for less money. Especially on Ebay. A 600 watt adjustable ballast will drive 250 and 400 watt bulbs using the 50% and 75% setting respectively.

Anyways.. thought it was interesting that there is something besides pure par going on.

I just finished reading over this thread - Great insight from you and everyone! I'm wondering if I can pick your brain if you're still available? You recommend staying away from aquatic ballasts...I have a Giesemann Spectra and was thinking of purchasing two Ipower 400w ballasts to run two 400 watt blubs...Do you recommend this, or should I stick to the ipower 600w as you recommended? And would you also know if that brand (or do you recommend something else) is compatible with our aquatic bulbs? Thanks in advance.

 

[MabuyaQ]

I noticed that all the growth is sideways like a plate . Nothing upward. Maybe it is going to table out ? Maybe Quin can let us know if it tables , or I’ll just wait and see .

Genetics, light,flow and allelopathic effects of neigbouring corals is what creates growth shape of a colony. Because MH lighting creates not only high PAR but also excelent spread a lot of species can keep growing horizontally for much longer before starting to grow vertically towards the light. Corals stretch towards the light (=vertical growth) just like plants do under 'low' light conditions, with plenty of light there is no need for stretching so they grow horizontally.

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

ipower ballasts are THE cheapest chinease garbage ballasts you can buy. You will eventually regret that purchase.

If you are going to drive 400 bulbs then get a 400 ballast. We overdrove 400 watt bulbs to 600 watts because the profits exceeded

 

[reeffreak911]

I’m a new metal halide user and it’s only been 2 weeks with them . But man these things rock . Every coral in the aquarium is likening these new lights. Mostly SPS.
A few weeks ago I was useing a BB/t5 combo. It was ok . The T5s were carrying all the weight IMO. And lately a acropora was receding at the base . the water parameters were good . I found the BB was turned down to 50-60% so I turned it up to 100% things tank wide improved a little. Then I lowered the BB and all 3 t5s things improved a tiny bit . Then I was literally hanging a 4th T5 on the front glass ( blue plus ) then things got good. The recession of that acropora stopped.
then I did a tank upgrade 37-90gallons and it went very well. Didn’t lose or stress anything . Cool!!
Then I hooked up the halides 4 hours a day to start . And from the first day with halides the corals have all responded very well. I cool the aquarium with fans . And it’s been 7-9 days at 4 hours a day and growth is becoming obvious . Like my spongodes monti is growing 1/16-1/8” every day. Pink birdsnest is covered in new growth tips . Everything! also the light is so strong (250watt DE) they can heat up your fries LOL . Happy camper here .

Metal halides are the best I've been using them for over 11yrs tried led for a couple of month went right back to halides euphyllias look much much happier with halides

 

[reeffreak911]

I have grown a lot of coral using MH lighting. Phoenix 14k is my perfered bulb but I have used 10k and 20k as well and in the end 20k was the look liked best. I was having issues getting good color for the longest time and seeing the post about color loss and the spectrum of the Ushio 20k bulb I think that answered a lot of questions for me. I feel like I had the best results with 14k bulbs it was just a bit too white for me. I have recently sold off my MH setup and change over to LED. I am seeing better color so far than I have in a long time and I like the control a quality LED fixture gives you.

If you run halides and when they turn off leds come on the corals will be insane bright leds are just light trick any coral is gonna look nice under super blue light but not do great for a long period of time even reef stores are amazed of the colors i pull with my halides once they put them under they're leds

 

[Torontotraders]

ipower ballasts are THE cheapest chinease garbage ballasts you can buy. You will eventually regret that purchase.

If you are going to drive 400 bulbs then get a 400 ballast. We overdrove 400 watt bulbs to 600 watts because the profits exceeded

Any recommendations over the aquarium models, or just stick to the aquarium models?

 

[robbyg]

Shhh... it is just are little secret. the LED fan boys don't listen anyways so whatevs..

That is actually true. I simply don't listen because Halides are not an option for me. They consume way to much power! Not only the ballasts but then the extra AC needed to cool the room or to chill the water. I sure would love to try them but if I add anymore fish tank related money onto my electric bill the wife is going to freak out. Also I personally think that the extra growth is just not worth the huge carbon foot print those lights add. But hey I am the kind of guy that is thinking about going solar so that should give you a clue as to where my head space is at.

 

[Backreefing]

As far as electrical consumption goes , metal halides aren’t that bad like people always say. People always point to LEDs as easyer on the electric bill . But wait a minute! Look at the radions @205 watts or some of the BB LEDs @300 watts and suddenly metal halides aren’t so bad @250 watts ? Right? As far as chillers go they are expensive but usually not needed . A simple office fan pointed at the water usually does good enough. Better to cool the room with ac , you enjoy it to . Who needs sweat running down your back while looking at the aquarium. Lots of LEDs are as much power consumption as metal halides.

 

[Biff0rz]

Aren't MH parts/bulbs becoming harder to get?

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

That is actually true. I simply don't listen because Halides are not an option for me. They consume way to much power! Not only the ballasts but then the extra AC needed to cool the room or to chill the water. I sure would love to try them but if I add anymore fish tank related money onto my electric bill the wife is going to freak out. Also I personally think that the extra growth is just not worth the huge carbon foot print those lights add. But hey I am the kind of guy that is thinking about going solar so that should give you a clue as to where my head space is at.

Heat your water with a heater or heat them with lights...

If you live somewhere hot they are not a good option. But all this talk of madatory chillers and AC is simply crap.

I have 1200 watts of halides, 400 watts of T5 and 200 watts pf LED and i dont have a chiller or an AC.

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

Aren't MH parts/bulbs becoming harder to get?

Not really no. You only need a new bulb every 2 years so its not like you are replacing them all the time.

 

[A. grandis]

Really tired of the old "halide so hot, expensive, etc..."
Yes, if the system needs a chiller running it will most likely need it, independent of what type of light you choose. People love to talk about saving on electricity bill but they forget how much their corals cost. What is more important in this hobby: to have an amazing healthy tank with corals growing and showing their best, or to balance your pocket? You can have a "just fine" tank or an stunning one! Save your money buying all the junk you don't need and invest in the health of the organisms you keep. Lighting the most important factor for coral health. Nothing bits a good halide/T5 combo in the short or long run.

 

[A. grandis]

Aren't MH parts/bulbs becoming harder to get?

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