Mike171 new (to me) 120G

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I thought this was a cool shot. Looking through the side of the glass (1/2") to see how close I was to being done.
 
I was nervous as heck to drill those holes but it was very easy. Did it all by myself.
 
Actually I lied its Plasti Dip which is a spray rubber coating. It's easily removable and can be peeled up.
 
Test filled the tank. Had a very small leak from around the bulkhead. Any suggestions?
 
I fixed the leak I had the gaskets installed on the inside of the overflow box instead of flush on the glass between the overflow an the glass. So no more leak.

I also put another coat of paint on the stand, going to be workin on the plumbing the next few days. Also need to go buy a 40G breeder to build my sump. I'm hoping to have the tank moved into the house holding at least sand and base rock by end of the month with plumbing set up. Anyone have some good links for plumbing??
 
I have no idea why I haven't been getting the updates on my list. I have actually been waiting on seeing more of this tank coming together. It looks good! I'm to late to really help on anything though.


I'm on my phone....
 
Haha it's cool. I've been slowly designing my plumbing. Just trying to make sure that (NSF-dwv) PVC isn't going to be an issue. Since I have it mostly done now.
 
I don't think it will be. I'll check and make sure but I think it's whats on my tank.


I'm on my phone....
 
you might want to put some PVC union's on the plumbing between the DT and sump. It will make for easier maintenance for the future : )
 
Excuse my ignorance but please explain the PVC Union please what it does, where it needs to be in the set up. Thanks on advance.
 
The unions give you a place to disconnect the plumbing without having to cut it out. I would run the right drain direct to the sump. Then T off the left one and put a ball valve to the fuge.


Drew

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Got cha on the union.
Regarding the layout. There are 2 tanks under there the first (right tank in this pic) is a 20L which will be the fuge is drained by the right pipe it will be raised 6" off the bottom of the stand and will be drilled an drain into a 10g that will house the Skimmer, heaters, and return I have a UV sterilizer I was going to put on the return plumbing. (Return not installed yet)

Questions: what pump would be sufficient for this set up has a 1500 gallon overflow kit.

Yea or nah on the uv sterilizer?
 
I would put the skimmer in the right part, as we see it in the pic, of the 20l, then a baffle say 8" high or so. This will give your skimmer the constant water level it needs to operate properly. It will also lessen the chance of the skimmer taking out the pods and other good things that can come from the fuge. With the skimmer in the same area as the return, the changing water level will cause it to need to be constantly adjusted. I would then use the 10g with no baffles for your return and give you that much more float room in your top off. Would also give you a good place for reactors and what not.
 
First off i'm excited to see this all together. I would also recommend putting the skimmer on the right. If you keep it where it is, you could also have alot of bubbles coming into your display.
 
What if I add a baffle in 10G for the skimmer, and have the left drain pipe feed directly into that compartment. leave the 20 as all fuge and drain only to the return pump side?
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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