Mixed Signals about Nutrient Levels

I do not know if this helps but I wanted to share my recent experience.

I have Reefer 350 that is almost a year old and have had the nitrate at unmeasurable levels per my API test kit until recently. My fish stocking level is one squareback anthias, three blue chromis, one coral beauty, and one longnose hawkfish. Invertebrates are 9 hermit crabs, two conches, three brittle stars, one scarlet cleaner shrimp, four turbo snails, and to many to count astrea snails; the astrea snails have been reproducing like crazy to where very small snails are everywhere. I also have two hammer corals, two bird nest corals, one chalice coral, and one lobo brain coral; all the corals are growing well. I do a weekly water change of 4-5 gallons.

The last couple of weeks I was traveling and was not able to do water changes for the two weeks. My wife took care of draining the skimmer and replenishing the ATO unit; the unit replenishes evaporated water by adding the RO/DI water pumped through a kalkreactor, keeping pH at an average around 8.3. When I got home from my trip, I tested the nitrate level and the reading was showing 10 ppm. I suspected that this increase was due to lack of water change and my wife’s enthusiasm of making sure all the fish get enough food; she probably doubles the amount I feed them! I am currently doing a biweekly water change to lower the nitrate level.

What was good is even with the elevated nitrate level while I was traveling, the only algae was a light brown/green film on the glass, which is normal weekly cleaning activity, and it was not more then normal. No algae on rocks or sand.

The only reason I suspect that the algae did not bloom is the huge population of astrea snails and amphipods/copepods. The amphipods and copepods come out at night and they are on every rock, object, and on the sand at night. So while the nitrate level increased, it appears that the established population of the herbivores kept the algae growth under control.

So I feel that while the corals zooanthellae use the nitrates and offer some algae competition, I suspect that the large established invertebrate herbivore population is keeping the algae from blooming due to increased nitrates.
 
Which part do you mean is problem of high nutrition? All I see is low nutrition problem.

That's pretty low load of fish. I have a 42G tank and I have 10 fish in it. :p In my case, my nutrition is too high and I drove them down by vodka dosing. It promote bacteria growth and compete with algae, but bacteria is also contribute as coral food source.

If you don't want to increase fish load and/or feeding, I think dosing KNO3 is not the way to go, as simple inorganic compounds can be efficiently used by algae. I would dose for coral in form of amino acids and/or coral food, which the corals would have advantage in utilizing over plants. Also start slow cause stunted coral won't take use of new food source fast, and leftovers will breakdown and feed algae. Start slow to give coral the chance to catch up.
 
I do not know if this helps but I wanted to share my recent experience.

I have Reefer 350 that is almost a year old and have had the nitrate at unmeasurable levels per my API test kit until recently. My fish stocking level is one squareback anthias, three blue chromis, one coral beauty, and one longnose hawkfish. Invertebrates are 9 hermit crabs, two conches, three brittle stars, one scarlet cleaner shrimp, four turbo snails, and to many to count astrea snails; the astrea snails have been reproducing like crazy to where very small snails are everywhere. I also have two hammer corals, two bird nest corals, one chalice coral, and one lobo brain coral; all the corals are growing well. I do a weekly water change of 4-5 gallons.

The last couple of weeks I was traveling and was not able to do water changes for the two weeks. My wife took care of draining the skimmer and replenishing the ATO unit; the unit replenishes evaporated water by adding the RO/DI water pumped through a kalkreactor, keeping pH at an average around 8.3. When I got home from my trip, I tested the nitrate level and the reading was showing 10 ppm. I suspected that this increase was due to lack of water change and my wife’s enthusiasm of making sure all the fish get enough food; she probably doubles the amount I feed them! I am currently doing a biweekly water change to lower the nitrate level.

What was good is even with the elevated nitrate level while I was traveling, the only algae was a light brown/green film on the glass, which is normal weekly cleaning activity, and it was not more then normal. No algae on rocks or sand.

The only reason I suspect that the algae did not bloom is the huge population of astrea snails and amphipods/copepods. The amphipods and copepods come out at night and they are on every rock, object, and on the sand at night. So while the nitrate level increased, it appears that the established population of the herbivores kept the algae growth under control.

So I feel that while the corals zooanthellae use the nitrates and offer some algae competition, I suspect that the large established invertebrate herbivore population is keeping the algae from blooming due to increased nitrates.

Great post!

I've been searching for the right snails for the GHA in my display tank. I've tried Astrea snails before, with limited success, but that's when the tank was relatively young. It sure sounds like they work great for you, which is encouraging. Do you have a recommendation on the best place to purchase them from?

BTW, with regard to Pods, I have a pretty good population of copepods in the display tank and a ton in the refugium, but my Mandarin Dragonet keeps them in check. There are no amphipods in the DT yet, though. I'm hoping eventually they will find there way to the DT in great enough numbers to sustain a population.

Thanks :)
 
It is often a conundrum to boost nutrients enough to help corals that are not getting the same level of living and particulate foods they'd get in the wild, and not help algae.

I think in many cases, folks with higher nutrients who do not have algae issues either have adequate herbivores, or have some other attribute limiting the algae growth (such as iron).

Hi Randy, I was reading a few of your old and recent articles / posts about how algae is related to iron. Can you please clarify how iron is related to the algae growth please? Thanks a lot!
 
One more for feeding more fish or feeding corals instead of dosing solutions. Yes, nitrate causes algal growth and may cause phosphate starvation of corals when phosphate also is low. To speed up coral growth you need more phosphate, for darker coral colors you need more nitrogen like amino acids or ammonium (be careful with ammonium).
 
Hi Randy, I was reading a few of your old and recent articles / posts about how algae is related to iron. Can you please clarify how iron is related to the algae growth please? Thanks a lot!

As Harry Potter, said, "It's complicated" lol

Algae need enough iron to grow. So do all corals, and every other living creature, but algae at least (and perhaps some corals) usually gets it from the water rather than foods.

Algae needs lots of things, actually, N, P, C, many trace elements, light, space, etc.). It needs enough of ALL of these, and to some extent it may not matter if you have just enough, or a thousand times more than needed, enough is enough and corals will grow. The rest they just ignore.

In some tanks with very (VERY) high nutrients (say, 1 ppm phosphate and 100 ppm nitrate) with apparently thriving corals and no apparent algae issue, I and others have suggested that perhaps iron levels (or some other trace element) are low enough to limit algae growth and not limit the corals, at least not limit them to the point of being a problem.

Dinos may also be limited in many reef tanks by lack of a trace element, but that's a different story.

Macroalgae used in refugia can also become iron limited, and many folks dose iron to ensure the macroalgae is growing as fast as it can based on other limiting factors.

For some reason, macroalgae (at least some types) seems to need more iron than some types of microalgae. It sometimes works to dose iron to a tank where macroalgae in a refugium is being overrun by hair algae. It worked for me many years ago when someone suggested it, and so I now suggest that to others.
 
Which part do you mean is problem of high nutrition? All I see is low nutrition problem.

That's pretty low load of fish. I have a 42G tank and I have 10 fish in it. :p In my case, my nutrition is too high and I drove them down by vodka dosing. It promote bacteria growth and compete with algae, but bacteria is also contribute as coral food source.

If you don't want to increase fish load and/or feeding, I think dosing KNO3 is not the way to go, as simple inorganic compounds can be efficiently used by algae. I would dose for coral in form of amino acids and/or coral food, which the corals would have advantage in utilizing over plants. Also start slow cause stunted coral won't take use of new food source fast, and leftovers will breakdown and feed algae. Start slow to give coral the chance to catch up.
+1 BRS Reef Chili and Red Sea Reef Energy A+B would be my suggestion here. This hobby is full of some great products that are specifically designed to solve these issues that keep coming up for inexperienced Acropora keepers.
 
Great post!

I've been searching for the right snails for the GHA in my display tank. I've tried Astrea snails before, with limited success, but that's when the tank was relatively young. It sure sounds like they work great for you, which is encouraging. Do you have a recommendation on the best place to purchase them from?

BTW, with regard to Pods, I have a pretty good population of copepods in the display tank and a ton in the refugium, but my Mandarin Dragonet keeps them in check. There are no amphipods in the DT yet, though. I'm hoping eventually they will find there way to the DT in great enough numbers to sustain a population.

Thanks :)

Hi Tim,

Thanks for replying to my post.

Regarding the source of my snails, I purchased them from my LFS. Nothing special about them that I was aware of. They are just reproducing real well in my tank.

One thing I did do differently on this tank then previous tanks is immediately from when the tank was filled is replacing the evaporated water with distilled and RO/DI water mixed with kalkwasser. At first this was done via the built in ATO unit the Reefer came with but I quickly upgraded to using a Tunze auto topoff unit feeding through a Precision Marine Kalkreactor. This I feel has done a great job maintaining alkalinity, pH and Calcium levels. Being automated is great as I travel a lot and knowing that the top-off water is added automatically is a fantastic; my wife loves it as she only has to add RO/DI water to the top-off reservoir without mixing kalkwasser!

Also, I do a weekly water change of 3-5 gallons. This also has kept trace elements plus salinity in balance.

But, like all other things in our universe, nothing occurs because of a single variable; there is a combination of events. Besides what I listed above, I also keep my tank temp at 77 F to 78 F; the room the tank is in stays at 64F to 68F year round. So the tank does not experience temperature swings due to room conditions. I also only feed my fish once a day at roughly the same time and only what they can eat in 5 to 10 minutes. And my protein skimmer runs 24/7. Other then protein skimmer and the filter socks, I do not use any other form of filtration or water cleaning equipment, such as carbon.

I am sure there are other factors, but what I am doing now is keeping the inhabitants happy and thriving. Trust me, I have learned from mistakes on previous reef tanks!

I hope this helps.
 
Thanks SoCoFlyFisher ... I'm going to give Astrea snails a try again and order them from my LFS this time.

:)
 

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