Modifying MH Fixture

[qstorm]

I have a Hamilton MH/T5 combo fixtures. I don't get much growth and decided to go with some HYDRA. The fixture have a glass at the bottom that covers the bulbs. I don't know if that affected my par in addition with the screen mesh that I used to make tank covers. I plan on putting two Orphek strips to replace the T5 and 3 hydra 26 to replace the MH bulbs. Should I put back the glass over the fixture? Should I be concerned about heat and the PAR. The fixture has fans on either side and hydra has fans.

Thank you
Q

 

[A. grandis]

What makes you think the 2 Orphek and 3 Hydras will make them grow more? Anyway...
Would be a shame to modify such a good powerful halide/T5 fixture IMO.
Maybe you should sell that halide fixture and get those LED over the tank in another fashion. You could have a much cleaner look that way.

 

[SeaSickness]

I don't know the dimensions of your tank or of the light fixture, but the Hamilton MH/T5 combo fixture should provide you with more than adequate par.

 

[lmm1967]

More details on your setup ?

I'm going the opposite direction right now - with a 4' quad bulb T5 plus 3 Kessil 360WE LEDs I'm only averaging 200 par throughout a standard 120 gallon tank. Light fixture is about 10" above the surface and I use 1/8" screen tops (BRS screen material).

With a single 400 watt MH plus 2 blue reef brite knock offs I'm easily double the par in most parts of the tank and the halide is 18" above the tank.

I agree with @A. grandis - if you are going to change - you could consider selling your current setup rather than modifying

 

[Bpb]

I have a hard time believing the lights were in any way at fault here. But....it’s fun buying new lights.

 

[K7BMG]

The glass on the fixture is a barrier to keep splash and moisture from getting into the fixture.
The MH lamps are so hot if water hit them then they will pop.
If you get rid of the MH then you could get rid of the glass.
I agree with the others though.
I dont think the current lighting is the cause of your lack of growth.
Also I would sell the fixture as is.
Once modified it will have no value.

 

[topjimmy]

The glass on the fixture is a barrier to keep splash and moisture from getting into the fixture.
The MH lamps are so hot if water hit them then they will pop.
If you get rid of the MH then you could get rid of the glass.
I agree with the others though.
I dont think the current lighting is the cause of your lack of growth.
Also I would sell the fixture as is.
Once modified it will have no value.

If it's an hqi mh it also shields the IR. I have a Hamilton with two t5 - and a 250w hqi. It had two led moonlights that I replaced with led stars. Working pretty well.

 

[K7BMG]

Sounds like my fixture, but I have the 48 inch version with two 250W MH.
The moon lights did not work when I bought it.
Yes it was used.

 

[topjimmy]

Sounds like my fixture, but I have the 48 inch version with two 250W MH.
The moon lights did not work when I bought it.
Yes it was used.

If you are interested in adding led pucks in place of those it was easy to do. I used the ones from blue acro.

I like the fixture and only have one complaint. The MH section is a giant PITA to get to the bulb or clean the other side of the glass.

 

[K7BMG]

My fixture is not to bad, but still a pain to pull out a 48 x 12 piece of glass.
Always seems to be a few dead bugs that fall into the tank.

 

[topjimmy]

Crispy too.

 

[jda]

I take the glass out of ALL of my single ended fixtures. Of course, you have to keep it in the double ended ones. Never had a single bulb crack since 1992 and there are splash spots on all of the bulbs.

 

[Mhart032]

I have a hard time believing the lights were in any way at fault here. But....it’s fun buying new lights.

I agree, im assuming by the info your taking about the Hamilton belize sun fixture, My opinion these lights grow anything, i have the 70" or so version with the 3 MH still running phoenix 14ks not currently in use but id never give it up. these lights were bullet proof for sps.

 

[qstorm]

This the fixture that I have. I had it directly over the tank using the mounting brackets that came with it and my water temp would rise too much. My sps would burn out. So I move it 14" inches above the water. I was getting good growth, then it stalled. I assumed it was because of the covers that I made from window mesh that was blocking the par. I lowered the lights to 9" above the water corals love it, then I got a bad infestation of Aiptasia. after getting rid of them corals stop growing.
3 of the T5 went out so I change them to the actinic blue and mh bulbs to deep actinic blue. Zoas loved them but for some reason it burned out the other corals.
As an experiment I got a hydra 26 and attached with tie wraps over the center mh where my zoas, my frag rack, and leather coral are...to my surprise everyone opened up, I have a ricordea rainbow coral that was hanging on to dear life, within 3 days it moved from under the rock into the lights.
So I think a controllable LED fixture is the way for me. The MH is heavy, a PITA to change bulbs, makes the house hot as hell. I will see if I can sell it cause its a nice fixture, but the way I would modify it, it can always revert to the original state

 

[lmm1967]

You're not in Georgia - are you?

 

[Bpb]

This the fixture that I have. I had it directly over the tank using the mounting brackets that came with it and my water temp would rise too much. My sps would burn out. So I move it 14" inches above the water. I was getting good growth, then it stalled. I assumed it was because of the covers that I made from window mesh that was blocking the par. I lowered the lights to 9" above the water corals love it, then I got a bad infestation of Aiptasia. after getting rid of them corals stop growing.
3 of the T5 went out so I change them to the actinic blue and mh bulbs to deep actinic blue. Zoas loved them but for some reason it burned out the other corals.
As an experiment I got a hydra 26 and attached with tie wraps over the center mh where my zoas, my frag rack, and leather coral are...to my surprise everyone opened up, I have a ricordea rainbow coral that was hanging on to dear life, within 3 days it moved from under the rock into the lights.
So I think a controllable LED fixture is the way for me. The MH is heavy, a PITA to change bulbs, makes the house hot as hell. I will see if I can sell it cause its a nice fixture, but the way I would modify it, it can always revert to the original state

It sounds like you photoshocked everything with too much par too quickly. Did you use a par meter when making all these changes? What course of time did you go through when raising/lowering the lights and changing bulbs?

 

[qstorm]

It sounds like you photoshocked everything with too much par too quickly. Did you use a par meter when making all these changes? What course of time did you go through when raising/lowering the lights and changing bulbs?

Possibly..I new to mix reef. I changed the height a week at a time. I use those heights based off reading and recommendations from LFS. I never used a par meter

 

[qstorm]

You're not in Georgia - are you?

I am in south fl

 

[biecacka]

Sell it. It will go quickly with the amount of people switching back to halides or those stockpiling them for their next upgrade or whatnot. A fan usually will help the heat.
put it up for a fair price and watch it go. I’d buy for my backup but it won’t work on my tank dimensions.

corey

 

[qstorm]

Sell it. It will go quickly with the amount of people switching back to halides or those stockpiling them for their next upgrade or whatnot. A fan usually will help the heat.
put it up for a fair price and watch it go. I’d buy for my backup but it won’t work on my tank dimensions.

corey

It comes with two fans on the side and I do have a fan to cool it down, but the temperature in that area rises. As you walk in you can feel the heat coming off it cause there is no canopy