msab's Red Sea Reefer 450 Build

DavidlewisChapman · Feb 3, 2017

msab said:
This weekend I got some time to build a small refugium. I ordered up some white 12x24'' 1/4" thick acrylic on eBay for $11.80 :http://www.ebay.com/itm/272066133452?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=570877604929&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Arrived in 2 days from FL to CA, free shipping!

Scored the sheet up and cracked it into size. I lost my acrylic glue, so I ended up using my clear PVC glue. Seemed to have a pretty strong bond for what I need.

Before:

After:

Looking to get some Fiji mud now from BRS:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/fiji-mud-refugium-booster-walt-smith.html

Don't suppose u have measurement to makes his do u please

DavidlewisChapman · Feb 3, 2017

"I don't suppose you would have measurements to make the baffle a tight fit do u" that was supposed to say lol

erk · Feb 3, 2017

DavidlewisChapman said:
"I don't suppose you would have measurements to make the baffle a tight fit do u" that was supposed to say lol

You would want to be careful about having a tight fit with acrylic in a glass sump. CTE between glass and acrylic is different enough that the acrylic will expand more than glass will. This can put pressure on the glass and crack it. This is why when attaching acrylic baffles in a glass tank with silicone, you should give them 0.125" or greater gap on either side for expansion and contraction of the acrylic.

DavidlewisChapman · Feb 3, 2017

erk said:
You would want to be careful about having a tight fit with acrylic in a glass sump. CTE between glass and acrylic is different enough that the acrylic will expand more than glass will. This can put pressure on the glass and crack it. This is why when attaching acrylic baffles in a glass tank with silicone, you should give them 0.125" or greater gap on either side for expansion and contraction of the acrylic.

So how would one get a water tight enough seal to be able to use it efficiently as a baffle

erk · Feb 5, 2017

DavidlewisChapman said:
So how would one get a water tight enough seal to be able to use it efficiently as a baffle

Adding it as a baffle after the fact would be difficult unless you make it a tight fit. But then you run the risk of stressing the glass. One idea is weather stripping. Silicone weather stripping that slips on maybe. Or run a bead of silicone on the edge of the baffle and let it dry.

Daniel@R2R · Feb 6, 2017

Looking good! I keep thinking I want a large water storage container...haven't pulled the trigger yet.

erk · Feb 6, 2017

mdbannister said:
Looking good! I keep thinking I want a large water storage container...haven't pulled the trigger yet.

I highly recommend it. I wish I had the container msab is using. I bought one of those 55 gallon blue drums and then put a BRS ABS threaded bulkhead on it. Had to cut the top off to secure the bulkhead. But it's worth it. Having a ready available source of RO/DI water whenever I need is so much better than waiting for a 5 gal bucket to fill up.

msab · Feb 6, 2017

DavidlewisChapman said:
"I don't suppose you would have measurements to make the baffle a tight fit do u" that was supposed to say lol

I don't but I can try and measure them while they are under water.

From the inside of the glass baffle to the inside of the acrylic baffle is (so the fuge area) is 7 1/8".

The width of the baffle(back wall to front door opening.. the main piece that the water flows over) is about 16.5". This will probably vary per glass sump. I left about 1/16" of space so the acylic could expand and not add pressure to the width of the sump.

10" tall (from bottom of sump to out of the water). The higher you go the more water pressure against it. As well as higher water level at the filter sock area.

.

The most important part I think is to grind down the sharp corners so they don't stab into the silicone.

The small amount of sand holds it in place when the return pump is off. Really the small square support that I added in the middle is holding most of the pressure of the water. I added the small supports on top just to prevent it from warping over time. Remember not to mount the arms at the very top.

I run my M1 pump higher than most at 2 leds off at the top end. So the water is moving pretty good in there.

Let me know if you need anything else!

msab · Feb 6, 2017

erk said:
You would want to be careful about having a tight fit with acrylic in a glass sump. CTE between glass and acrylic is different enough that the acrylic will expand more than glass will. This can put pressure on the glass and crack it. This is why when attaching acrylic baffles in a glass tank with silicone, you should give them 0.125" or greater gap on either side for expansion and contraction of the acrylic.

Yup I agree! Don't make it a super tight fit. It almost floated backwards when the pump is turned off is how loose it is. I added the sand and that keeps it in place. So far the sand has not made it between the glass and acrylic.

I did a lot of reading though and people were saying that acrylic and silicone don't have much bonding strength compared to glass. I guess the bead of silicone on both sides would keep it in place though. Ideally it would be best to just add a glass baffle, but I needed something cheap and quick.

msab · Feb 6, 2017

mdbannister said:
Looking good! I keep thinking I want a large water storage container...haven't pulled the trigger yet.

Well when you do, Boyd's in Texas have the best shipping rates I could find. Make sure you call them cause they get you a better rate than their website!

I am using the RO/DI waste water right now to rinse it out. Its also helping me slowly test out the total weight on the shelf in case I need to add more support. I am about half way there and it is solid so far!

I almost want to get another storage tank now to capture the RO/DI waste water and use it to wash cars or something with this drought in CA. Not too sure if plants like soft water.

msab · Feb 6, 2017

20 gallon white food grade Brute container arrived today from Amazon! Next I need to get it some wheels and a lid.

DavidlewisChapman · Feb 7, 2017

Thanks mate I've semi made mine now gonna check it today

msab · Jul 6, 2017

Quick update. I picked up the Neptune ATK from BRS. Delivering 1-2 gallons of water to the tank a day to the ATO container was becoming a full time job. I was going to try and run the ATK in stand alone mode since I am limited on connected modules from the JR. I ended up sacrificing my keypad to add it in. I used Cat5e cable to extend the pumps cable. After getting this all installed its made the hobby much more enjoyable.

I also rigged up the biopellet reactor. I started off slow with half the amount. I don't have much in the tank so I had a bit of cyano overtake. After removing some pellets I have gotten it down to 99% contained. Right now I am running about 1/4 the recommendation.

msab · Jul 6, 2017

Next project is cleaning this mess up. Maybe even before MACNA.

msab · Jul 6, 2017

I have also plumbed the skimmer to fresh air outside. My pH now hovers more around 8.4 vs 7.9-8.0. One quick lesson learned is disconnect it on the 4th of July. All the corals were closed up and the tank water had a green tint to it. Luckily by the AM everything cleared up after being disconnected over night.

I also picked up a Netatmo to keep an eye on the indoor humidity and CO2 levels in the house.

I plan to also automate via IFTTT some exhaust fans in the house to kick on when the levels reach a particular set point.

msab · Jul 20, 2017

I've had enough! My skimmer cup flooded the other day and soaked everything. My clowns laid eggs again and it upset my skimmer. I gave in and purchased a Davy Jones' Skimmate locker from Avast Marine. Thanks for the free shipping Avast! You guys are awesome! I cant wait for it to get here.

msab · Sep 4, 2017

Some updates, Avast skimmate installed and after a week or so this is the results:

msab · Sep 4, 2017

Planning on cleaning up the control center now. I am starting to plan it out:

Pink objects will be a fan and fan controller in white:

I plan on getting 2x2 inch wiring duct in white which is in blue in the diagram:

msab · Sep 4, 2017

I am also working on updating the tank lighting with 3-4 Radion XR15 G4 Pros. I really like the design of the Red Sea Peninsula. I am starting to model one up now. Probably make it out of wood. I am waiting on one to come in this week so I can get better measurements and plan out how it will be powered. I would like to have the power somehow come from the ceiling but still be a very thin cable: