Sorry to hear. I had 2-3 small relapses when I let my nutrients get low -- PO4 in particular. The error margin with the Hanna is +-.02 so running a bit higher is safer. I try to stay around .1 +-.
My Battle with Dinoflagellates
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Sorry to hear. I had 2-3 small relapses when I let my nutrients get low -- PO4 in particular. The error margin with the Hanna is +-.02 so running a bit higher is safer. I try to stay around .1 +-.
SCHAULJ
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Are you having to dose phos?
I read an article from Reef Builders - Jake Adams about increasing temp to solve dinos. He watched a bloggers video about his success with this approach and tried it on one of his tanks he had dino issues with... in 1 week they were going.
My temp was increased to 82 this morning...
I was dosing both for more than a month. When the bottle ran dry they returned within a day or two. I probably dosed 3 liters of DIY solution over the period. Now I just feed fish heavy. Been clear for 3-4 months. (Now dealing with aefw. Ugh.)
Yeah, I have been watching the high temp experiment. I expect it to go like so many other methods. Works for some, not for others.
I've been lucky to just have ostreopsis which IMO are pretty easy to manage with the "standard" protocol of UV and raised nutrient. I also added about 60 lbs of live rock which I am hoping will keep things a bit more stable.
Marc2952
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Hey scott you havent had any issues with hair algae? After the dinos started to dissapear only thing is that now im getting alot of hair algae. I used fluconazole not long ago and that clear my tank of all algae including bryopsis, the thing is that after i did a water change to remove the fluconazole it brought the dinos back. I dont want to go through that again so im thinking of just going the natural way for algae but dont see my tangs or urchins eating it.
Oddly no, I have never had GHA in either system. Not sure how I escaped that rather common issue as I keep both systems pretty high nutrient since dinos. I went from dinos to cyano for several weeks, but no GHA. I keep a lot of large tangs, an inch thick algae blenny, and 3 fox face that all pound away on the frag racks and tiles.
I've been through pretty much every other nuisance algae and coral pest imaginable though, so don't be jealous.
Long, mature GHA is kinda tough and a lot of fish won't go after it. If you can manually remove as much as you can, they should help manage new growth. I've read here a few times that Vibrant will "tenderize" GHA enough to make it more palatable but all second hand info. And you have to be careful as Vibrant is believed to contain bacteria, carbon and algaecide. Those first two ingredients will lower your nutrients. danged if you do...
SCHAULJ
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Posted this to my build thread. Sharing if you have heard or experienced any success with increased temps?
Well they are back...
Found small sliver of hope in a recent article by @Jake Adams (link further below). In the article he discusses a possible solution when increasing temperature to 82.
After watching his video, I decided to try the same. I raised my tank temperature from 78 to 82 degrees low and behold, the tank cleared up in a week. Not a trace of dinoflagellates anywhere. After spending hundreds of dollars on suggested solutions, all it took was punching in a higher temperature in my aquarium controller. The remaining question is whether this solution will work for others. And if so, why does it work? Also, what happens if I set my tank back to the original 78 degrees?
I increased the Neohtherms from 78 to 82 yesterday. This morning tank was at 81.6. Will run it here for at least 1 week to see if this helps my cause.
More to come. Fingers crossed.
Is This the Dinoflagellate Treatment We’ve all been Hoping for?
Is This the Dinoflagellate Treatment We’ve all been Hoping for? | Reef Builders | The Reef and Saltwater Aquarium Blog
Being a reef aquarists, means dealing with nuisance algae, parasites, and other pests… Cyanobacteria, AEFW, Red Bugs, and who here remembers that pink cotton candy algae (Callithamnion)?reefbuilders.com
