My Current QT Process

[HotRocks]

@HotRocks

Any advice on quarantine for anthias? Seems like I read something from you in another thread about switched up your method due to their susceptibility to uronema?

My first quarantine will be 3 bimac anthias and 2 captive bred davinchi clowns.

Thanks,

Nick

Use this same process, just add metronidazole (Metroplex) to copper for the first 10 days. Dosing per instructions every 48 hours. This will cover the uronema component.

 

[nbd13]

Use this same process, just add metronidazole (Metroplex) to copper for the first 10 days. Dosing per instructions every 48 hours. This will cover the uronema component.

Thanks.

After the 14 day copper treatment has ended and I transfer them to a new tank, what do you do with the old tank? Rinse it down with vinegar?

What about the sponge in the HOB filter? I’ll be seeding it with bacteria but since copper has run in the tank I need a second sponge seeded with bottle bacteria for the new setup.

Could I just run some carbon in the first tank setup and then start a new batch of fish?

Nick

 

[Falcon53]

Thanks for the replies!

 

[Liron Mishal]

@nbd13
Carbon wont do any good in this case.
you want to make sure all possible parasites are gone/dead before using the tank again,
carbon will reduce copper in the water, but has no affect on ich and such.

serialize with vinegar/ bleach (I use bleach) and let it dry for 3 days.
then you can rinse well and reuse. as for the filtration media, it is extremely difficult to dry, so it is possible that ich parasites will stay alive on the media.
also, if you could dry it, i suppose that no nitrifying bacteria will remain, so there's no other option than to use a new media.

 

[MnFish1]

Yes you need a totally new set up include heater, filter, air stone, power head, thermometer, ammonia badge, pvc tubes, etc

I assume you mean 'a cleaned set-up' rather than new.

serialize with vinegar/ bleach (I use bleach) and let it dry for 3 days.

Just dont use vinegar and then bleach or vice versa due to chlorine gas. I use 10% bleach solution (9 parts water 1 part bleach) soaked for an hour (which some sites say is too much) rinse, Chlorine neutralizer and use again. This should work for equipment, tank, filter, heater.

 

[Pbh-reef]

I assume you mean 'a cleaned set-up' rather than new.

Has to be sterile set up, new in relation to the one the fish just came out of, you don’t need to buy a new tank etc each time, just properly sterilize each time

 

[nbd13]

So if get one batch of fish through the first stage/ya m and transfer them to a new tank for the 2nd stage of quarantine, do I need to break down the first tank and clean it with vinegar or bleach before getting a new set of fish to go into the first setup and start copper? Or can I just keep the first setup running and get new fish in there as soon as the first set is out?

Seems like if I have to clean it every time between uses I’ll need new bottle bacteria for each set of fish, right?

Thanks

 

[nbd13]

Use this same process, just add metronidazole (Metroplex) to copper for the first 10 days. Dosing per instructions every 48 hours. This will cover the uronema component.

Thanks! So I still soak the food in general cure and focus correct? Then just add metroplex to the water column.

Also how often are you doing water changes during the 2 weeks of copper treatment?

Last question you use GC dozed into the water column as the 2nd stage of quarantine rather than prazipro dosed into the water column correct? This treats the external parasites vs the GC in the food treating internally correct? I’ve heard some things about resistance to prazipro, does this pertain to resistance to GC as well?

Thanks!

 

[HotRocks]

So if get one batch of fish through the first stage/ya m and transfer them to a new tank for the 2nd stage of quarantine, do I need to break down the first tank and clean it with vinegar or bleach before getting a new set of fish to go into the first setup and start copper? Or can I just keep the first setup running and get new fish in there as soon as the first set is out?

Seems like if I have to clean it every time between uses I’ll need new bottle bacteria for each set of fish, right?

Thanks

You can go right into treatment with a second batch of fish in tank 1. I do not sterilize between every batch. It depends on what all the prior batch had going on. I try to sterilize every 3rd batch or so. If I had gram negative bacterial infections present I would sterilize no matter what.

You do need a new bottle of bacteria after sterilization.

You can do a WC in tank one to reduce the copper level and start your second batch. The one Con to doing so (unless you have a 3rd QT) is if something slips through treatment and you have the 1st tank and second tank both loaded with fish you may be stuck with having to retreat fish and running copper for an additional 30 days.

 

[HotRocks]

Thanks! So I still soak the food in general cure and focus correct? Then just add metroplex to the water column.

Also how often are you doing water changes during the 2 weeks of copper treatment?

Last question you use GC dozed into the water column as the 2nd stage of quarantine rather than prazipro dosed into the water column correct? This treats the external parasites vs the GC in the food treating internally correct? I’ve heard some things about resistance to prazipro, does this pertain to resistance to GC as well?

Thanks!

Yes add GC to food with focus and dose the water column with Metroplex.

WC during copper is minimal for me. I typically can get through copper for 14 days without a WC, unless I'm adding antibiotics then you have to follow the WC schedule for the meds. Predosing copper to the WC to match the level in the tank prior to adding to tank on order to prevent a fluctuation in the tank.

GC and Prazipro both contain praziquantel. GC is a slightly lower concentration it also contains metronidazole.

If you encounter a prazi resistant strain it will be resistant to either med and you may have to use hypo or formalin etc.

 

[Falcon53]

A couple questions if I may...I am picking up a golden rhomboid and a pintail fairy wrasse tomorrow. I have the QT set up properly and ready to go. Here are my questions:

- My understanding is that wrasses are more resistant to parasites. I also understand that while they are likely less sensitive to copper than previously thought, they still have some sensitivity. In the absence of visible parasites, would you still immediately start in the 1.0ppm copper (I'm using Copper Power with Hanna Checker) and then raise to 1.75ppm? Or would you feed with GC soaked food, then dose GC into water after feeding soaked food long enough? The thought process being that the latter might be less stressful, and to do copper after that.

-Given that I am not the best at diagnosing bacterial infections, would it be best to treat prophylactically with ABX? I would use Spectrogram, Kanaplex, and Furan 2. If the answer here is yes, is it better to do at the same time as copper, or better to wait until afterwards - again, under the assumption this is prophylactic - NOT if I see disease.

Thanks!

 

[Falcon53]

Well I had to get them this morning so I went with the standard procedure...they'll be going into 1.00ppm copper and following the rest as written in post 1.

If anyone could answer my second question in post #311 I would really appreciate it.

One other question...how can I sanitize, and remove copper from my salinity probe? I have a handheld that I want to use for both tanks. I obviously don't want to cross contaminate with copper or disease! Thanks!

 

[lactose]

Well I had to get them this morning so I went with the standard procedure...they'll be going into 1.00ppm copper and following the rest as written in post 1.

If anyone could answer my second question in post #311 I would really appreciate it.

One other question...how can I sanitize, and remove copper from my salinity probe? I have a handheld that I want to use for both tanks. I obviously don't want to cross contaminate with copper or disease! Thanks!

In order to avoid any cross contamination, any thing like the handheld probe you mentioned I either have multiples (ideal but doesn't always make $$ sense) or I take a small as possible sample of the water in a cup to stick the probe in (and then replace with new water if needed).

That way nothing that touches one tanks water touches another. Stops transmissions of disease as well as copper.

For salinity that is also why I use a refractometer as it only takes a few drops so doesn't need to be replaced. Hope that helps

 

[Aaron-A2]

I just picked up a female Bellus angel who has not eaten for 1 day. After putting her in the QT, I can visual confirm she has ich (tank was already up to 1.00ppm copper prior to introducing the fish).

I've tried feeding frozen mysis and flake food with no luck. What would my best course of action be at this point?

 

[HotRocks]

I just picked up a female Bellus angel who has not eaten for 1 day. After putting her in the QT, I can visual confirm she has ich (tank was already up to 1.00ppm copper prior to introducing the fish).

I've tried feeding frozen mysis and flake food with no luck. What would my best course of action be at this point?

Have you tried any clams on a half or live mussel? Sometimes it will get them going.

 

[Aaron-A2]

Have you tried any clams on a half or live mussel? Sometimes it will get them going.

No, just frozen mysis. Thoughts on live brine? My LFS close by has some.

 

[MnFish1]

One other question...how can I sanitize, and remove copper from my salinity probe? I have a handheld that I want to use for both tanks. I obviously don't want to cross contaminate with copper or disease! Thanks!

There are numerous ways to sanitize these things - one being 10% bleach for 15 minutes. If you rinse and dry your probe - there Is so little copper on it it shouldn't cause a problem. That said - the best practice is to keep them separate.

 

[Wowkuh]

Would it be OK to drop fish in a tank that already has meds in it? Specifically furan-2 and kanaplex? or do they need to be acclimated to these meds.

 

[Aaron-A2]

Have you tried any clams on a half or live mussel? Sometimes it will get them going.

Just tried live brine + frozen bloodworms. The fish sucked up 2 brine but spit them out.

Also, do you recommend bringing copper up since I see ich on the bellus? I'm only concerned since she's not eating yet.

 

[Falcon53]

Well I picked up the pintail wrasse and golden rhomboid yesterday. They both looked great in the store and were eating well. I fed them this morning and the rhomboid is eating well but the pintail wasn't really eating. Pintail did eat a tiny bit today but looked a little listless. The tonight, a large vertical white patch formed on both side of the pintail in the middle of its body. It's definitely not the typical stress colors.

I dosed Furan, Metroplex, and Kanaplex. I'm hoping it makes it...and at the very least that the Rhomboid makes it.

Anyone have any further advice or moral support? Haha