My Current QT Process

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Is 30 days in copper at therapeutic levels still standard practice for treating a velvet outbreak? Seems a little lengthy given the 14 day max from tomont to dinospore.

Yes unless you plan to transfer to a 2nd sterile QT after 14 days.

 

[HotRocks]

First of all, Thank you very much @HotRocks. Being brand new to the hobby, this is definitely nerve-wracking and having so much useful information in one post is fantastic. Seriously, thank a lot.

My main question.

I love the idea of a 2nd QT tank and I will get one if necessary... Here is why it may not be for me, just this once.

As I said, I'm brand new to the hobby and my display tank is cycled but with nothing inside of it yet.
Would it be possible to treat with copper and general cure for 14 days in the QT tank and then transfer to display tank with nothing in it and finish with general cure in the water column?

If I discover fish still have issues / parasites, would they die off in the display tank with time if any and all fish were removed? If something has the ability to live in the water indefinitely and survive off no fish, then I will run out and buy a 2nd tank tomorrow, but if everything can die naturally after fish removal, then I see no need to get a 2nd tank on my very first fish.

Hope I made sense, and hope to hear back. Thanks!

You could certainly use your display as your 2nd sterile tank for the first round of fish.

I also know people who treat for 14 days and go straight to DT (that has livestock already in it) without observation and have had success. It all boils down to your personal risk tolerance. For me my display is rather large and difficult to get fish out. I also keep lots of “hard to keep” finicky fish that I have had for years so for me the 2nd sterile QT for observation is a must in order to protect my inhabitants and preventing a complete tear down if something made it in.

I also probably QT more fish at a time and overall than an average hobbyist so there is a lot more risk for cross contamination and coming across more stubborn strains of velvet and uronema so I always error to the side of caution And I have had a couple of batches of fish that have had to be retreated when something showed up in observation. Hope this helps.

 

[Fragmented Wolf]

You could certainly use your display as your 2nd sterile tank for the first round of fish.

I also know people who treat for 14 days and go straight to DT (that has livestock already in it) without observation and have had success. It all boils down to your personal risk tolerance. For me my display is rather large and difficult to get fish out. I also keep lots of “hard to keep” finicky fish that I have had for years so for me the 2nd sterile QT for observation is a must in order to protect my inhabitants and preventing a complete tear down if something made it in.

I also probably QT more fish at a time and overall than an average hobbyist so there is a lot more risk for cross contamination and coming across more stubborn strains of velvet and uronema so I always error to the side of caution And I have had a couple of batches of fish that have had to be retreated when something showed up in observation. Hope this helps.

Thanks, @HotRocks ! Your expertise is greatly appreciated =)

 

[mygsris2slo4u]

Thoughts on this tang’s behavior in QT. I cannot pinpoint anything that would cause this behavior.

Behavior started on day 2-3 in QT.
QT is a 40breeder.
On day 5 of copper safe at 2.0 ppm per Hanna checker.
Ammonia is 0 per alert badge and API test.
CBB and wrasse are eating tang is not. Black worms, LRS, live BBs, red nori. Tried everything I have. No signs of ich or velvet on any of them.
Freshwater dip showed nothing on the tang.
4 hour prazipro bath showed nothing.

Im at a loss. I feel like he’s not going to make it, but I don’t know what else to do/try at this moment.

 

[HotRocks]

Thoughts on this tang’s behavior in QT. I cannot pinpoint anything that would cause this behavior.

Behavior started on day 2-3 in QT.
QT is a 40breeder.
On day 5 of copper safe at 2.0 ppm per Hanna checker.
Ammonia is 0 per alert badge and API test.
CBB and wrasse are eating tang is not. Black worms, LRS, live BBs, red nori. Tried everything I have. No signs of ich or velvet on any of them.
Freshwater dip showed nothing on the tang.
4 hour prazipro bath showed nothing.

Im at a loss. I feel like he’s not going to make it, but I don’t know what else to do/try at this moment.

I can’t view the video. Can you upload to YouTube and post link?

 

[mygsris2slo4u]

I can’t view the video. Can you upload to YouTube and post link?

That's weird. The video won't display on my phone, but does on my desktop. I'll have to create a youtube account.

Basically, the whitecheek is swimming sideways, vertically (head up), upside down and twirling on occasion. It stays in the water column and doesn't "lay down" like I've seen others do while on their death bed.

 

[mygsris2slo4u]

@HotRocks Give this link a shot!

 

[StillNewAtReefing]

@HotRocks, new to the community and read your post! I am currently undergoing this process, but I still have some questions that don’t seem to be asked. I have 5 fish in my display only two have signs of ich. Four of the 5 are tangs last being a flame hawkfish. How large of a QT would I need to begin this process as soon as possible.

 

[shookONES]

My WT Kole (dubbed “Patient Zero” because I suspect he was the one who introduced velvet into my system) was doing this in QT around days 2-3. I thought he was a goner for sure, and I debated putting him out of his misery more than once. Fast forward to today, day 12 of QT, and he is 100% his old self. Just stay the course and make sure your QT is heavily aerated.

@HotRocks Give this link a shot!

 

[mygsris2slo4u]

My WT Kole (dubbed “Patient Zero” because I suspect he was the one who introduced velvet into my system) was doing this in QT around days 2-3. I thought he was a goner for sure, and I debated putting him out of his misery more than once. Fast forward to today, day 12 of QT, and he is 100% his old self. Just stay the course and make sure your QT is heavily aerated.

I hope my outcome is similar. I'll keep an eye on him this evening, but for the few minutes I watched today he at least appears to be upright most of the time.

 

[HotRocks]

@HotRocks, new to the community and read your post! I am currently undergoing this process, but I still have some questions that don’t seem to be asked. I have 5 fish in my display only two have signs of ich. Four of the 5 are tangs last being a flame hawkfish. How large of a QT would I need to begin this process as soon as possible.

I like to use a 55g minimum for tangs. Personally I feel like the 4 feet of swimming room is helpful.

 

[HotRocks]

That's weird. The video won't display on my phone, but does on my desktop. I'll have to create a youtube account.

Basically, the whitecheek is swimming sideways, vertically (head up), upside down and twirling on occasion. It stays in the water column and doesn't "lay down" like I've seen others do while on their death bed.

Did this behavior start after the FW dip?

I had this happen after a FWD on an achilles tang and it lasted about a day. That fish happily lives in one of @4FordFamily ’s tanks today.

 

[Sixty7x]

I haven’t overdosed yet! I’d add even more focus too.

Well, it's been a week since the increased medication and I did observe thin white stringy poop from one of my clowns 2 days ago. Ironically the fish that has color loss in 4 fins is pooping healthy. The other fish that looks great is actually the one not having the best BM's. I've been watching them for about an hour after their evening feed and I just haven't seen any more feces. I've got Thomas Labs Bendazole coming tomorrow. I'm under the impression that this med might help if I have some resistant internal parasites. I do believe I read to dose this internally just as I would General Cure. I also have Metroplex on hand if anyone thinks that might be a better course of action. I am aware that General Cure has metronidazole in it, but at a lower dose. Both fish look good and are eating well during both feedings. unmedicated pellets in the a.m. and medicated mysis in the p.m.

 

[mygsris2slo4u]

Did this behavior start after the FW dip?

I had this happen after a FWD on an achilles tang and it lasted about a day. That fish happily lives in one of @4FordFamily ’s tanks today.

No. It was the reason I did the dip and bath. No other outward symptoms, so I figured I'd give it a shot to see if it was flukes and/or black ich.

 

[Okinawa_reefer]

Thanks for the kind words. Yes Indiana native here. What part of the state are you in?

Wow, as I sit here reading this thread and begin educating myself on a proper QT process, I learn that you are from Indiana! I live in Lafayette. Do you sell QT'd fish?

 

[HotRocks]

Wow, as I sit here reading this thread and begin educating myself on a proper QT process, I learn that you are from Indiana! I live in Lafayette. Do you sell QT'd fish?

I’m about 45 minutes from Lafayette. I actually do not sell QTd fish but I have helped several locals out!

 

[Sixty7x]

Last step is two rounds of Praziquantel using either GC or Prazipro. I prefer GC as it contains metronidazole as well and covers a few other diseases like Brook and uronema. This treatment is dosed into the water column to treat externally, as I have covered internal issues during copper with the food soaked meds.

14 Days of observation post medications prior to transfer to DT in order to make sure the fish are healthy and disease free.

@HotRocks , after both rounds of General Cure do you keep fish in same tank and water or is it advisable to do a large water change for observation? Reason I ask this is because I've been battling some pesky internal parasites and I'm trying my best to keep the infected "poo" out of the tank. I wasn't able to take care of the internal issues during copper and tomorrow will be day 5 of 2nd round of GC. I'm wondering if a major water change/cleaning would help.

 

[Flame2hawk]

I’ve always wondered also as theoretically 14 days s/b enough....Interested in knowing the answer.....

 

[salty joe]

I do also keep live food on hand and feed live foods as well for the first few days until the picky eaters and others are eating frozen well.

What live foods do you use?

 

[HotRocks]

What live foods do you use?

Live Blackworms, Clams, mussel, brine shrimp, guppies, etc. It all depends on what type of fish we are talking about.

Guppies work well for larger predators that are hard to get started. Like lion fish.
Blackworms are great for tangs, idols, etc.
Clam and mussel work well for finicky angels.
Brine shrimp work for a lot of wrasse and tangs absolutely love them!