Need basic carpentry help for building my own stand

shred5 · Dec 9, 2015

ermartin said:
I like to use pocket hole screws

The best way..

kreg pocket hole jig.

Buy stainless screws too...

Stand I just built:
It has a 90 on it but can hold up to a 180.

build thread:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/shred5-90-gallon-build.210225/

jgvergo · Dec 9, 2015

I have to give credit where credit is due...My wife picked all the visible "wrap" pieces

stupid recruit · Dec 9, 2015

glb said:
Nice! Love the marble top!

it's actually bathroom tiles and sealed in with colored caulk

TracyZ · Dec 10, 2015

shred5 said:
The best way..

kreg pocket hole jig.

Buy stainless screws too...

Stand I just built:
It has a 90 on it but can hold up to a 180.

build thread:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/shred5-90-gallon-build.210225/

Question. On the first photo, is the inner long lengths the portion the outer tank dimension sit on? Is the bottom (that already has to ply piece over it) built the same as the top? For the corner up rights, is it just the one piece on each corner, or is it the one piece with two others- if that makes sense (like the original video that has the up right inside the square with two on each side-essentially blocking view of the original)? It's beautiful BTW.

shred5 · Dec 10, 2015

TracyZ said:
Question. On the first photo, is the inner long lengths the portion the outer tank dimension sit on? Is the bottom (that already has to ply piece over it) built the same as the top? For the corner up rights, is it just the one piece on each corner, or is it the one piece with two others- if that makes sense (like the original video that has the up right inside the square with two on each side-essentially blocking view of the original)? It's beautiful BTW.

Not sure I fully understand the whole question.. But the stand is designed to handle different size tanks. That 2x4 that is perpendicular to the front is for 90,75 gallon tanks (4'x18" aquariums). I designed the stand so I didn't have to build another if I upgraded. I will hold 4'x18", 4"x24", 6'x18", and 4'x24" tanks. Allot of people build a inner frame like that too if they want to have a larger stand than aquarium. This provides support where the aquarium frame is. This is especially important for table tops to they dont warp from the weight of the Aquarium.

The top is 3/4" plywood and is framed with solid wood. The shelves were just leftover plywood with edging put on. The bottom is 3 separate pieces for each section. One section has the shelves for storage, the middle is sump section, and the other end is for equipment. Most of it is in my build which needs to be updated badly. Probably wont happen to after the holidays.

You can see in the pic I needed to support where the actual aquarium needed to be:

some more pics:

This pic is of the top: It shows the framing so you dont see the edge of the plywood. I just used oak hardwood molding and glued and brad nailed it on. I mounted it a little higher and then planed it flat with the plywood.

TracyZ · Dec 10, 2015

I have to build one for a 6'x18" (24" top /bottom). I don't mind, actually feel a little safer with a 1" lip all the way around the tank. Planning on making it 36" high. I wasn't sure with the 2x4 sitting on the 2"side if I needed to do two long pieces on each of the 4 (2 top,2 bottom)portions. I was trying to decide if i could go 24" across the top portion (and/or bottom for that matter) as the supports with plywood on top- or i need to go more like 12-18". Same thing with the verticals front and back (how far apart I can safely make them). I need to be sure it can handle it, yet not over build it.

shred5 · Dec 10, 2015

Plywood adds to strength but not too much, it does add to rigidity and helps keep thing square. If not supported underneath plywood will warp especially with weight on it.
The frame of the aquarium needs to be supported both horizontally and vertically directly under the frame of the aquarium... If the front of the tank is not supported by the frame of the stand it will rest on the cross members making the screws carry the weight. I know it is not easy to describe what I am saying.

In this picture you can see this stand is designed to stick out farther than the tank. They do this to have a stand larger than the tanks for more room inside the stand. The same thing could happen on the sides but just extend the red studs farther.
If you want just a overhang the bottom yellow studs could stop at verticals.

See my stand is actually two stand in one so I have two frames, but both stands share the same back.

Also everyone of these stands is pretty much over kill. My retail stand I just sold was made so cheaply. You probably could get away with allot.

TracyZ · Dec 10, 2015

shred5 said:
Plywood adds to strength but not too much, it does add to rigidity and helps keep thing square. If not supported underneath plywood will warp especially with weight on it.
The frame of the aquarium needs to be supported both horizontally and vertically directly under the frame of the aquarium... If the front of the tank is not supported by the frame of the stand it will rest on the cross members making the screws carry the weight. I know it is not easy to describe what I am saying.

In this picture you can see this stand is designed to stick out farther than the tank. They do this to have a stand larger than the tanks for more room inside the stand. The same thing could happen on the sides but just extend the red studs farther.
If you want just a overhang the bottom yellow studs could stop at verticals.

See my stand is actually two stand in one so I have two frames, but both stands share the same back.

Also everyone of these stands is pretty much over kill. My retail stand I just sold was made so cheaply. You probably could get away with allot.

TracyZ · Dec 10, 2015

I just want about an inch around (front and back not really on the ends )tank frame. With one that is a 6' tank how far apart would i need to place vertical uprights front and back?? Then do you have cross pieces running from front to back to spread the weight, if so how far apart?

glb · Dec 27, 2015

It's build day! I'm going to the hardware store in a bit to buy/cut the wood and get supplies. I've measures and remeasured the cuts so I'll get the most out of the 2x4's. The last step before going is making sure the sump will fit under the stand and the skimmer will have clearance. I'm planing a 32" stand because I'll view it sitting. Here's my supply list for the store so far. Any suggestions would be welcome!

5-95" 2x4's
2.5" deck screws (should they be 1/8" thick/are there different thicknesses?)
Waterproof sealant
Clamps
Wood glue

I already have the drill and 1/8" bit.

Also, I'm planning to add to the sides of the stand to make room for topoff water and equipment. I know I have to have a frame the dimensions of the tank for stability. I planned on building this frame today and then adding the side "boxes" next. Is this a bad idea? Would it be better to have the 2x4's for the length cut to the final size of the stand? I'll draw a picture so hopefully it will make better sense. Thanks in advance for everyone's help?

glb · Dec 27, 2015

Here's a pic of the planned build. I thought about not attaching the sides to the stand in case I want to pull them out. I have a 70" nook where the stand is going so space is an issue. If I make the stand 36" and each side piece 15", that's only two inches between the sides and the wall. The outlets are on the sides of the wall. Does this make sense?

glb · Dec 27, 2015

Ok I just measured the inside of the stand and the 20long won't fit end to end. So I need to make the stand a little bit wider. If I increase the size by 1 1/2" to 37 1/2", that will add 3/4" on each end. If the stand is sitting on the middle of the 2x4 (really 1 1/2x 3 1/2), will it be stable? I'll go ahead and add 1 1/2 to the depth too so all of the sides will sit evenly. Does this make sense?

tdjma · Dec 27, 2015

Having them seperate is fine just make sure you have room to screw them to your main stand

tdjma · Dec 27, 2015

Just skin the ends and cut a hole to plug through and to finish it off just use a scribe piece to fill gap .

glb · Dec 27, 2015

tdjma said:
Just skin the ends and cut a hole to plug through and to finish it off just use a scribe piece to fill gap .

Thanks! Do I need to screw them in? If I don't, I can pull out the sides to get to the back of the stand if I need to. Because the stand is in a nook, there would be no other way to get back there. On the other hand, if the outlets are on the sides, there may not be any need to get back there.