Need Help - Big Change to QT

[HardyG]

So to continue my ignorance of QTing..

Is there any point in doing a full QT process on newly acquired fish if I don't do a full QT of corals as well? In the past I have only dipped new corals, and that honestly was my plan going forward. I am notorious for frag swapping a few times a week, but don't think I could ever swing a DT and 2 other QT tanks in the office.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

So to continue my ignorance of QTing..

Is there any point in doing a full QT process on newly acquired fish if I don't do a full QT of corals as well? In the past I have only dipped new corals, and that honestly was my plan going forward. I am notorious for frag swapping a few times a week, but don't think I could ever swing a DT and 2 other QT tanks in the office.

If the corals are coming from a dedicated invertebrate system, the risk of fish disease introduction is small. Dipping helps reduce that, even rinsing the corals in clean seawater before moving them to the display helps. If the corals are coming from a tank that has fish in it that were not actively quarantined, the risk is greater. I like to hold those corals in a fishless system for 30 days.
Jay

 

[HardyG]

If the corals are coming from a dedicated invertebrate system, the risk of fish disease introduction is small. Dipping helps reduce that, even rinsing the corals in clean seawater before moving them to the display helps. If the corals are coming from a tank that has fish in it that were not actively quarantined, the risk is greater. I like to hold those corals in a fishless system for 30 days.
Jay

I wish I could say that all of my corals will come from invert systems, but that just isn't the case unfortunately. I frag swap with a lot of local reefers, so it just isn't going to happen. So the big question would be am I wasting my time going through a full QT just to have one $5 frag give ich or some other parasite to all of my fish.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

I wish I could say that all of my corals will come from invert systems, but that just isn't the case unfortunately. I frag swap with a lot of local reefers, so it just isn't going to happen. So the big question would be am I wasting my time going through a full QT just to have one $5 frag give ich or some other parasite to all of my fish.

Yep - there will be a risk. There is a local LFS that dumps tangs into their frag tanks for algae control, and they often have ich.

What I do is keep a fishless frag tray to house new corals in for 30 days. That helps reduce coral pests as well.

Jay

 

[HardyG]

Yep - there will be a risk. There is a local LFS that dumps tangs into their frag tanks for algae control, and they often have ich.

What I do is keep a fishless frag tray to house new corals in for 30 days. That helps reduce coral pests as well.

Jay

Jay, do you have a QT write up, or a reference similar to this one, but for corals?

Current Quarantine Protocol

2024 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed, proactive quarantine process can effectively eliminate these...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Jay, do you have a QT write up, or a reference similar to this one, but for corals?

Current Quarantine Protocol

2024 Quarantine Procedures Jay Hemdal David Scarborough Protozoans (Cryptocaryon/ich, Amyloodinium/velvet) and Metazoan trematodes/flukes are by far the most common parasites found on newly acquired fish. A carefully managed, proactive quarantine process can effectively eliminate these...

www.reef2reef.com

Sorry, no. Quarantining for common coral pests is important, but I'm just not a "coral head", so I leave that to others. I did write up a general biosecurity article:

Biosecurity

A short introduction to aquarium biosecurity

www.reef2reef.com

Jay

 

[HardyG]

Sorry, no. Quarantining for common coral pests is important, but I'm just not a "coral head", so I leave that to others. I did write up a general biosecurity article:

Biosecurity

A short introduction to aquarium biosecurity

www.reef2reef.com

Jay

Jay, thank you so much for your help and support during my time of skepticism as someone who has always been scared of QTing. I have 2 additional questions for you.

1. My tank is still a week or so from getting water and I wanted to start the QT process early if it was going to take 64 days before it could hit the DT. What would you recommend exactly for someone in my situation if I was going to bring fish home tomorrow as far as bacteria. Do I need to have bacteria in a bottle for this to work, or will often water changes be enough with ammonia testing regularly? (My first few fish will I inevitably be 2 clowns and blue hippo tang)

2. How often are you looking at feeding during this QT phase? Also I know it’s normal for new fish to not eat. Do you make sure to get uneaten particles of food that you can out of the tank, or just trust in the HOB filter to catch it all.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Jay, thank you so much for your help and support during my time of skepticism as someone who has always been scared of QTing. I have 2 additional questions for you.

1. My tank is still a week or so from getting water and I wanted to start the QT process early if it was going to take 64 days before it could hit the DT. What would you recommend exactly for someone in my situation if I was going to bring fish home tomorrow as far as bacteria. Do I need to have bacteria in a bottle for this to work, or will often water changes be enough with ammonia testing regularly? (My first few fish will I inevitably be 2 clowns and blue hippo tang)

2. How often are you looking at feeding during this QT phase? Also I know it’s normal for new fish to not eat. Do you make sure to get uneaten particles of food that you can out of the tank, or just trust in the HOB filter to catch it all.

1) I really urge people to avoid setting up a QT on the fly, an unstable QT adds lots of extra stress on the fish. Water changes alone won’t control ammonia in a QT, sometimes, 50% changes per day won’t control it. You should use lots of bottled bacteria and let the QT run in with a few hardy fish first. Better yet, run a search for “fishless cycle” for an ammonia chloride method.
2) you need to feed fish a good diet, in normal amounts during quarantine. Fish should eat well the day after you get them.
Jay

 

[paragrouper]

Thanks for the heads up. Any suppliers you recommend?

I think Dr Reef is a good option. I also like seahorse savvy.

 

[HardyG]

1) I really urge people to avoid setting up a QT on the fly, an unstable QT adds lots of extra stress on the fish. Water changes alone won’t control ammonia in a QT, sometimes, 50% changes per day won’t control it. You should use lots of bottled bacteria and let the QT run in with a few hardy fish first. Better yet, run a search for “fishless cycle” for an ammonia chloride method.
2) you need to feed fish a good diet, in normal amounts during quarantine. Fish should eat well the day after you get them.
Jay

Thanks for the reply! So another question.. Can you over use the bottled bacteria? I will order some tonight and get it going in the bio filter.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

Thanks for the reply! So another question.. Can you over use the bottled bacteria? I will order some tonight and get it going in the bio filter.

I’ve never heard of over dosing that, but it is technically possible - not directly, but by lowering the oxygen level too much.
Jay