Need help deciding Gyre or 2 mp60s...for my situation.

[Smprc]

So just to make sure I've got it...

Everything I'm looking at here in these pics is 1.25.

Only the outlet parts in the loc-line pics (earlier posts) are 1"?

Probably still only +2 feet of head pressure. (Not sure I said that right in the last post since we're talking loops, not returns.)

At least without the loc-line, I think your pump might really be putting around 1300 GPH in the tank.

Here's the setup I put into the friction-loss calculator and the ling to the calc if you wanted to try it with your actual parts list.
http://www.freecalc.com/fric.htm


Definitely report back on how the flow in the tank seems with just those running sans Loc-line. I'm curious how good it might be.

Hey just wanted to say thanks for your time and input. I really appreciate it.

1.25" gets reduced to 1" at the union then 1" gets reduced to 3/4" where the loc lines are screwed on inside the tank.

It never occurred to me to just have the 2 returns on the closed loop completely open. I figured it would be good to aim the returns a bit. But now that the gyres are on there way, I wouldn't mind removing the loc line, plus the wife hates those black pipes! So I will do that. The main reason I put those in was because I didn't want any accumulation of debris on that end of the tank, other peninsula owners mentioned that. However, to be honest, once the gyres get here I doubt I would have had that problem and probably didn't even need the CL. But I guess this is why we live and learn right.

Another kewl thing is that I can upgrade the Jebao pump to a more powerful pump. I read many stories on how unreliable they are etc...etc...funny thing is, you can't hear that pump at all and since it was going to run a CL I took a chance because I missed the black friday sale for the reef octopus varios I was going to use. At this point, for the CL I wouldn't hesitate to purchase another. Plus I can get DCP 10000 that pushes around 2600 gph and just swap it out.

I am also looking to replace the Reef Oct Varios 8 that I have for my main return because I can't stand the hum it produces, it's not necessarily loud, but I want SILENCE, not quiet. I think that is due to the head pressure and the fact that I stupidly hard piped it in and didn't use some flexible piping...but thats another story.

 

[Dragon52]

I have 1 MP40 on my 60"x24x30H & I get plenty of flow everywhere, I had 2 MS gyre 250's prior to that & took them out because my 16" Carpet decided it was going to go roaming & went 24" up the side of my tank & put his foot inside the gyre inlet, needless to say he didn't make it. I know alot of people would say that things get caught but the gyres have more area to get caught in. JMO.

 

[malacoda]

You can place the gyre under the overflow, then rotate the cages on each propeller to direct the flow slightly upward. That should have the flow go up over the rock, across the tank, down the opposite side, then back along the bottom toward the overflow side. As for the flow reducing/interfering with circulation into the overflow, you can program in low flow, no flow, or reverse flow, periods to allow more (or less) water to circulate to the overflow.

Keep in mind, you can run 2 gyres off of the new gyre controller. Placing one under the overflow, and another on the opposite wall, you could also create a 'moving' zone of turbulence much like the guys at BRS did (they talk about it at time mark 15:15).

That said, at the end of the day either pump set up - gyre or mp60s - should work fine. It's really a matter of personal preference and trial and error to find what you like best for your aquascape.

 

[Smprc]

I'm going to try and replicate the moving zone of turbulence...however it will be done by placing the gyres vertically both on one side. It may not work but I'm doing everything I can from placing any pumps on the Peninsula end.

 

[mcarroll]

3/4" outlets??

At least with 1300gph that still only seems to stack up to +2.6 ft of head pressure.

Any idea what the flow rate of the 10000 is supposed to be?

Liquid Friction Pressure Loss
Pressure Loss (psi): 1.15 Head Loss (ft): 2.6
Line Number:
Date: 6/2/2018
Nominal Pipe Size: 1.25
Pipe Schedule: SCH 40
Flow Rate (gpm): 21
Viscosity (cP): 1
Specific Gravity (water=1): 1.025
Temperature (F): 79
Pipe Roughness (ft): 0.000016
Actual Pipe ID (in.): 1.38
Fluid Velocity (ft/sec): 4.51
Reynolds Number: 49329
Flow Region: Turbulent
Friction Factor: 0.021
Overall K: 8.25
Piping Length (ft): 5
Short Radius Elbows: 6
Tee Flow Through: 3
Ball : 6
Pipe Exit : 2
No. of Reducers: 2
Reducer Outlet Size (in) : 0.75

Found this on Amazon so it may be wrong, but...

(1.5 meters is about equal to the 5 feet I have been using in the example friction-loss calculations. .75 meters is about equal to the friction losses based on 3/4" outlets.)

That says your current pump should be able to push about 950 GPH at 2.5' of head pressure.

You could get almost 800 GPH from a little Quiet One 4000 using less than 58 watts for $65. Might be a nice backup or alternate.

Failure
Unless you're varying the flow of your CL I'd plan to swap in an AC pump if the current pump selection fails.

Early failure is pointless, so you wouldn't want to repeat the experience.

A Lifegard QuietOne 4000 would bring you almost 800 GPH for about $65 and would be dead silent. A QuietOne 5000 (1300 GPH @ 2.5') or 6000 (1600 GPH @ 2.5') runs around $100 for either one. Great 3 year warranty on the line and they are seriously one of the most silent.

Silent running is not a feature that DC pumps have a monopoly on, BTW. Eheim, Mag, Sicce or if you're running external, you could even consider Iwaki, PanWorld, et al. Any of them can be more or less quiet, depending on the installation style. Eheim, QuietOne and Sicce would be my top picks if operating noise is really the priority and you're running them submersed. External operation of any pump will be louder than its submersed performance.

2¢

 

[mcarroll]

Plus I can get DCP 10000 that pushes around 2600 gph and just swap it out.

DC pump flow claims have been found to be doubt-worthy in the past, so I'd measure your actual flow to see what you're really getting after install.

That said, we'll say the 10000 really does want to push 2600 GPH....with the existing plumbing, you get +4 feet of head pressure due to friction at that flow rate....so it'll be more like 1,400 GPH in reality.