Need help identifying brown string like algae
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Mikedawg
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Yep and a lot of reefers on this blog also try 1 ml 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gals. The biological strategy is pretty much about raising nutrients and increasing biodiversity to grow organisms which will out compete the dinos. As you read the various recommendations on this blog you'll notice mixed results with using blackouts, H202, etc. and so it is important to identify what you are trying to manage..
True and it is my opinion that sand is only adding to the problem , dynos are virtually everywhere, biodiversity is the key , can you tell us what system you have? Filtration, water (total), live rock weight, critters and lightning then possibly we might get to see the problem here, discussing over sand will not get you very far but you should indeed syphon ou the algaes.
One thing I forgot to mention is that algae disappear when lights goes out and algae comes back when light come on
This morning I looked at my sand bed it was soo clean no trace of the algae on sand bed
This morning I looked at my sand bed it was soo clean no trace of the algae on sand bed
Joseph Disalvo
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Def Dino’s.. Peroxide dosing and gfo
Tank volume 50gal 2x2 cube
Carib sea rock and 20lb sand
Flow icecap 3k and Aquamedic 4.0 wavemaker
Lights radion xr30 gen 1 and kessil a80
Critters 1 urchin 2-3 tourch snail 1 red hermit crab last week i did but 7 Nassarius snails and 4 Cerith snails I believe all of the new additions are dead maybe few are still alive. New addition didn’t do well from the beginning
Sump I think 10gal
In the sump for filteration i have Aquamaxx skimmer filter floss siproaxx alot of matrix and a bag of carbon
Corals sps lps zoas frags and 1 leather
Joseph Disalvo
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hey man start herethis old thread will be very useful towards your situation
www.reef2reef.com
Hydrogen Peroxide doseing for Dinophlagellates.
Well after fighting dino with limited results from blackouts I'm going to buy some H2O2 (Hydrogen peroxide) to dose to reduce the remaining cells after a blackout to create a multi stage attack. All i need to know is a few brands of H2O2 that don't have stabilizers or that others have used that...
www.reef2reef.com
Like I said earlyer , you need biodiversity.
to me you have a lot of equipment but not a lot of biodiversity
how much caribbean live rock do you have ?
Just so you know , about half species of dinoflagellate are autotrophs that posseses chloroplasts and half are nonphotosynthesising , that means , a blackout might not even impact them as well as taking away their food source if you keep the lights on wont cut it. I remember having those, when I finally got rid of them , they would still be on the sand but in smaller quantity.
to me you have a lot of equipment but not a lot of biodiversity
how much caribbean live rock do you have ?
Just so you know , about half species of dinoflagellate are autotrophs that posseses chloroplasts and half are nonphotosynthesising , that means , a blackout might not even impact them as well as taking away their food source if you keep the lights on wont cut it. I remember having those, when I finally got rid of them , they would still be on the sand but in smaller quantity.
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TThere are some things that you can add and some that you cant, I personally have many spagheti worms that will be everywhere until there is less nutrients, and then you could add copepods...bristle worms some macro algaes in the sump would help, urchins starfishs like asterinas wich are a pest but being visually perturbing does not harm a tank in a physical way... just make sure the dinos dont kill other things by being too present and at one point some bacterias will take over and get to the point where they will control the dinos... that is what hapens in real life ... blooms happen and then a regulating event happens , you need to find that regulating event depending on your particular setup.. I personally think that keeping higher phosphate and nitrates is not really a good thing, some books say otherwise, just remember there is no known best solution and there is virtually always dinos in a tank... you said you lost many critters lately, they could be polluting your water , I would give a try on vodka dosing if I were you very very little , like 1/4 of what is normally suggested , frequent water changes but keep in mind you do not want to affect other bacterias so you could help some that will be helpfull , say for example , raise magnesium to help boost coralline algaes, sure you can black out and starve the aquarium but many times it doesnt work... some people say it works but they probably kill off everything to the same amount and then regulating bacterias will take over before the dinos get ahead. I hope you find what happened prior the dino bloom , in my opinion that is still the cause behind your problem.
Good day to you
Good day to you
It sounds like a dino species. That it dissipates into the water column at night is a good thing. That is the only way the UV can kill it. And it will.
Personally, I would not remove the sand. I would find out what species you have. The ones that like the sand are a little harder to kill off, and may require dosing silicates. I know; it sounds ridiculous.
To confirm it IS some kind of dino:
a) collect a sample in tank water. Shake it up hard so it "dissolves"
b) pour it into another glass through a coffee filter
c) let it sit for an hour or so and see if it coagulates again. If so, dinos are very likely.
If it does, I would suggest this thread. It saved me.
www.reef2reef.com
The first few pages lay out an established protocol. In general it means keeping nutrients up to normal ranges (via dosing) running UV (1 watt per 3 gallons) slowly and running fresh carbon to remove dino toxins. There are specific instructions for identification and treatment for the different species. You can tag @taricha and me once you have a microscope image/video posted to that thread.
Many also swear by the H2O2 method (also known as Elegant Corals method). There are some real risks associated, so make sure you understand them well. I was not comfortable with them. Just my humble opinion.
Personally, I would not remove the sand. I would find out what species you have. The ones that like the sand are a little harder to kill off, and may require dosing silicates. I know; it sounds ridiculous.
To confirm it IS some kind of dino:
a) collect a sample in tank water. Shake it up hard so it "dissolves"
b) pour it into another glass through a coffee filter
c) let it sit for an hour or so and see if it coagulates again. If so, dinos are very likely.
If it does, I would suggest this thread. It saved me.
Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...
www.reef2reef.com
Many also swear by the H2O2 method (also known as Elegant Corals method). There are some real risks associated, so make sure you understand them well. I was not comfortable with them. Just my humble opinion.
100xIt sounds like a dino species. That it dissipates into the water column at night is a good thing. That is the only way the UV can kill it. And it will.
Personally, I would not remove the sand. I would find out what species you have. The ones that like the sand are a little harder to kill off, and may require dosing silicates. I know; it sounds ridiculous.
To confirm it IS some kind of dino:
a) collect a sample in tank water. Shake it up hard so it "dissolves"
b) pour it into another glass through a coffee filter
c) let it sit for an hour or so and see if it coagulates again. If so, dinos are very likely.
If it does, I would suggest this thread. It saved me.
The first few pages lay out an established protocol. In general it means keeping nutrients up to normal ranges (via dosing) running UV (1 watt per 3 gallons) slowly and running fresh carbon to remove dino toxins. There are specific instructions for identification and treatment for the different species. You can tag @taricha and me once you have a microscope image/video posted to that thread.Dinoflagellates – Are You Tired Of Battling Altogether?
I don't know what percentage of folks had luck battling dinos with any of the methods in the old Dino thread but it's obviously a very low percentage, so I'd like refresh folks on the natural alternatives and lay out three areas of info: some of the factors that contribute to a dino outbreak...
Many also swear by the H2O2 method (also known as Elegant Corals method). There are some real risks associated, so make sure you understand them well. I was not comfortable with them. Just my humble opinion.
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