Need help picking out a ro/di unit

[AZDesertRat]

Why buy something that costs more to begin with then spend even more to make it work right? What is the sense in that? The Spectrapure system costs less initially and already has not only better filters but a better treated and tested high rejection rate RO membrane, better custom blended DI resin, an inline pressure gauge and a better capillary tube flow restrictor. Add all those up plus the cost of the BRS system you would upgrade and you could have the MaxCap, the best system on the planet.
For $139 you can have it ready to go
http://spectrapure.com/Refurbished-90-GPD-RODI-System

 

[lionfish5740]

What do you think about chloroamines and the ro/di units?

 

[prsnlty]

That's a great deal AZ. I may just buy the whole unit.

I have a question about ro that's been something of a concern. I have a 20g holding tank for ato next to my sump. My 125g uses about 2 gpd and I keep around 15g in the tank. When it goes down 5g I add 5g. Should I not do this? I've noticed that the tank (not the water) and circulating phs, ato pump and float are feeling kind of slimmy. What is this and is it ok?

Jackie

 

[saltfishguy18]

I only use spectrapure rodi units. Definately the best in the industry by far. Few things you don't want to "cheap" out on in this hobby and a rodi is not one of them.

 

[AZDesertRat]

I store RO/DI for months and months with no issues. I do not use powerheads or circulation of any kind and it stays covered or sealed to keep dust and contaminants out. Mt 23 gallon AT container has been completely drained and cleaned only twice in almost 7 years and the TDS is still 0.

There is no reason to circulate it, since top off is in small amounts the dissolved oxygen level and even temperature are not an issue. Keep making RO/DI in 5 gallon or larger batches and you should be good but I would remove the powerheads and cover or seal the ATO.

Chloramines are not as big an issue as some would lead you to believe. All you need is one good 1 micron or less extruded carbon block to remove the chlorine portion and break the bond with the ammonia along with good DI resin and contact time to remove the ammonia portion. Coarse carbons do nothing and multiple carbons or special catalytic carbons are unnecessary since they are designed for industrial applications with high chloramine levels way above the 4 mg/L EPA drinking water MCL. Chloramines are usually 2 mg/L or less in most drinking water applications which is a walk in the park for a 0.5, 0.6 or 1.0 micron modern carbon block which is comprised of different types or blends of carbons unlike the old days of GAC.

By good DI and contact time I mean a properly packed 20 oz vertical DI which flows from the bottom up so all water and resin come into contact with each other with no voids, gaps or short circuiting or channeling. The small hollow 9-12 oz horizontals don't work well nce the water travels along the bottom or short circuits leving the upper resin untouched. If you have the little horizontals, take them off the top bracket and mount them vertically with some zip ties or hose clamps so the fill from the bottom and exit the top for better treatment. Still not as good but better than stock configuration.

 

[prsnlty]

I store RO/DI for months and months with no issues. I do not use powerheads or circulation of any kind and it stays covered or sealed to keep dust and contaminants out. Mt 23 gallon AT container has been completely drained and cleaned only twice in almost 7 years and the TDS is still 0.

There is no reason to circulate it, since top off is in small amounts the dissolved oxygen level and even temperature are not an issue. Keep making RO/DI in 5 gallon or larger batches and you should be good but I would remove the powerheads and cover or seal the ATO.[/QUOTE ]

Ok, will do. Thank you

Jackie

 

[lionfish5740]

That's good to know, thanks DesertRat. I bought an ro/di with the extra catalytic carbon a while back to be safe. I run 0.5 micron as well.
What should I use when it comes time to swap them out? I'll have an extra chamber to use at that point.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Convert the extra canister to a dual DI for the best bang for your buck. You may have the fittings needed to do it already, all you do is disconnect the two carbon canisters, rotate the second one 90 degrees so the in and out face front to back, run the out line on the first up to the RO thenback down to the front of the new DI, out the back and into the second DI. Get a second refillable DI cartridge and use the same resin in both or use Spectrapures MaxCap in the first and mixed bed or SilicaBuster in the second.

 

[rhino56]

That is a good price for sure

Why buy something that costs more to begin with then spend even more to make it work right? What is the sense in that? The Spectrapure system costs less initially and already has not only better filters but a better treated and tested high rejection rate RO membrane, better custom blended DI resin, an inline pressure gauge and a better capillary tube flow restrictor. Add all those up plus the cost of the BRS system you would upgrade and you could have the MaxCap, the best system on the planet.
For $139 you can have it ready to go
Refurbished 90-GPD RODI System