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I definitely appreciate any help given, I'm such a newbie between this forum and facebook groups I'm lost in this hobby. I'm definitely trying to give as best of a description I can.
As for as ph dosing I dose reef buffer early today it was 3 teaspoons.

metroplex bound with seachem focus with the frozen food
yes previously in a 20g, it started with about 14, mostly chromis. They all did fine first week and a half then things started changing.They were in a 20g previously correct? How many fish were in there total? How often were you checking ammonia levels? I'm wondering if their gills have some ammonia burn going on.
They were in a 20g previously correct? How many fish were in there total? How often were you checking ammonia levels? I'm wondering if their gills have some ammonia burn going on.
so the reef buffer is where I went wrong?
Ill definetly try and add that to the feeding regiment. Ive only been feeding frozen, flakes, and live with vitachem. Thanks for the suggestion @jsker
No I mixed with RO until dissolve.Okay, read this:
"pH Control
pH is hard to control in a hyposaline solution because at this dilution, the buffer ability of the diluted saltwater is not good. Be prepared for this.
Make pH adjustments with pure baking soda (e.g., Arm & Hammer) you find in the grocery store, or better yet is sodium carbonate. Sodium carbonate can be made in the home oven. Take a pound of pure baking soda and spread it out evenly on a large cookie sheet. Put into a preheated oven to 350F. Bake it for 30 minutes. Take the sheet out of the oven, let cool to warm and put into an air-tight, clean container for use. Now the baking soda has been turned into sodium carbonate, a more potent pH + additive.
DO NOT try to control the pH with pH buffer or other off the shelf additives. Use only the two mentioned above or a specific strong pH+ control. Those buffers are expecting a full sp gr. They don't adjust the pH. BUFFERS DON'T ADJUST THE pH. Buffers just add chemicals in an attempt to balance magnesium, calcium, and alkalinity in the hopes of strengthening the buffering ability of normal salt water. They don't work in hypo!
Do not add the baking soda or sodium carbonate directly to the hospital/quarantine tank. Always thoroughly dissolve some powder in RO/DI or distilled water then drip/add that in slowly to move the pH up. One of the things about doing this treatment is that there will be some water evaporation. So dripping in a sodium carbonate solution can also help maintain the water level. It's trial and error. Make up the solution the same way each time, using the same amount of sodium carbonate prepared as noted above, and dissolved into the same amount of water. Then practice different drip rates, starting very slowly (1 drop every 5 minutes for a 15 gallon QT) and adjust it faster or slower in small increments until the pH remains the same. NOTE: Sodium carbonate doesn't dissolve well in water. Use distilled water or RO/DI water and add small amounts to it and stir well. Don't add more until what you've added before has dissolved.
If you mess up and the pH has lowered considerably (more than 0.2 pH units) below your target, then raise the pH VERY SLOWLY -- no more than 0.10 pH units per day. A large pH change can seriously harm a fish, especially a sick one."
Were you adding powdered buffer straight to the tank water?
No I mixed with RO until dissolve.
I was definitely afraid of ammonia being high so I was a stickler for the 2-day change process, with testing. I'm wondering if that wasn't enough as well. This is a huge fear doing QT process, especially for us newbies.Possible ph burn as well.
If they were all in the 20gal, ammonia could have gotten up there. Adding ph buffer directly to the tank would have been hard on them too.
I have found this to be the most reliable treatment of ich, and works well in most casesThat would be for internal parasites, for which it works very well . . .
Ich, which is an external protozoan parasite, will be more susceptible to copper (Ionic or Chelated) or Chloroquine Phosphate ("CP", available only with a Veterinary prescription).
~Bruce

so the reef buffer is where I went wrong?
Ill definetly try and add that to the feeding regiment. Ive only been feeding frozen, flakes, and live with vitachem. Thanks for the suggestion @jsker
I was definitely afraid of ammonia being high so I was a stickler for the 2-day change process, with testing. I'm wondering if that wasn't enough as well. This is a huge fear doing QT process, especially for us newbies.
Take very little ammonia to kill.

