Need helping with a leak

[Jay1982]

just getting my aquarium going and over the last 3 days I’ve been struggling with a leak. I thought it was coming from my FMK, but stumbled upon the true leak after taking apart the plumbing around the FMK several times. Here is a video of the leak on the return hose of a Reefer 170. Do I silicone it??


Thanks in advance!!

 

[TheEngineer]

Is that the right size hose barb? I would not silicone it.

 

[Reefrookie220]

No silicone. It won’t hold there indefinitely. If it were me I’d get another hose. Seems maybe you cut it at tad short and and it’s holding the weight of those cords and it’s at an angle. Straighten it out and make sure nothing is putting it in a bind and you should be golden.

 

[Jay1982]

Is that the right size hose barb? I would not silicone it.

Yeah it should be.

 

[Jay1982]

No silicone. It won’t hold there indefinitely. If it were me I’d get another hose. Seems maybe you cut it at tad short and and it’s holding the weight of those cords and it’s at an angle. Straighten it out and make sure nothing is putting it in a bind and you should be golden.

Thanks. Not sure what to do with the angle, tbh. I tried pretty hard to straighten it but the angle is all wonky from the FMK’s height in the sump. I can’t go lower because the module would be partially submerged in water when the return is off. Higher doesn’t work because the tube would then be too short and then it pinches. Ugh, dang, lol.

I have more hose left over so I’ll just cut a new one that’ll be slightly longer. The only thing is, the hose already went all the way to the bottom of the barb that has the leak. Is the hose bring too short at the top causing the leak at the bottom?

 

[TheEngineer]

The top barb looks dry to me in the video. It appears to be coming from the bottom. How did you attach the hose to the barb? Did you heat it?

 

[AlexStinson]

Maybe try a real hose clamp instead of a zip tie? They make plastic ratcheting ones that would do the trick.

 

[Ghost463]

I agree with alex.

 

[TheEngineer]

Maybe try a real hose clamp instead of a zip tie? They make plastic ratcheting ones that would do the trick.

I agree with alex.

The clamps are just there as a backup, the entire seal should be formed by the tubing and the barb. @Ghost463 you should swap out those metal clamps. They will eventually rust and the rust will get in your tank.

 

[Denisk]

Yeah typically I wouldn’t use a zip tie. You just can’t get them tight enough to make it water tight. I would use a metal clamp like stated above as it won’t be touching water anyways. I also wouldn’t worry about the rust getting into your tank. I’ve done this many many times. I wouldn’t recommend it if you were doing it at the end of the return where it would be submerged under water though. Of course the best route would be to just hard plumb the return section if your willing to do the extra work.

 

[TheEngineer]

Yeah typically I wouldn’t use a zip tie. You just can’t get them tight enough to make it water tight. I would use a metal clamp like stated above as it won’t be touching water anyways.

The area under a tank is extremely humid. They will rust.

This is personal experience, not conjecture.

 

[Denisk]

The area under a tank is extremely humid. They will rust.

This is personal experience, not conjecture.

I get that. But it’s not a piece that’s submerged into water. Rust won’t affect the tank especially at the amount that would even rust. I think hard plumbing would be the best alternative but I don’t think a clamp is a bad one.

 

[Centerline]

If its the hose another couple zip ties should do the trick. If not replace that fitting.

OR stainless hose clamps https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=bnav_s...+hose+clamps&rh=i:aps,k:stainless+hose+clamps

 

[Ghost463]

The clamps are just there as a backup, the entire seal should be formed by the tubing and the barb. @Ghost463 you should swap out those metal clamps. They will eventually rust and the rust will get in your tank.

Well i would have near 60 tanks to adjust. Mine and client. In almost 10 years of aquascape and setups i have never seen one rust. In my experience if its going to fail it will be broken during install.
Tbo of u are worried about a rusting pipe attachment i would also be worried about the wood stand. Or cast iron stand.
In the other hand to try and ease the convo here a bit.
They make a plastic clip very similar. Instead of a screw it is really a tight clip. U may have to hit up the local hardware store.

 

[TheEngineer]

I get that. But it’s not a piece that’s submerged into water. Rust won’t affect the tank especially at the amount that would even rust. I think hard plumbing would be the best alternative but I don’t think a clamp is a bad one.

I find this unsupported by facts. I've seen numerous people on here with ICP tests that show elevated tin levels and they wind up finding some tiny rusted screw inside a part. Count me as someone who had elevated tin levels and the only rust was found to be on hose clamps that were not submerged. When, not if, that clamp starts to rust and you brush up against it you will be knocking rust into the water.

Well i would have near 60 tanks to adjust. Mine and client. In almost 10 years of aquascape and setups i have never seen one rust. In my experience if its going to fail it will be broken during install.
Tbo of u are worried about a rusting pipe attachment i would also be worried about the wood stand. Or cast iron stand.
In the other hand to try and ease the convo here a bit.
They make a plastic clip very similar. Instead of a screw it is really a tight clip. U may have to hit up the local hardware store.

I've never been hit by a car, but I still look both ways before crossing the street.

 

[CC13]

I find this unsupported by facts. I've seen numerous people on here with ICP tests that show elevated tin levels and they wind up finding some tiny rusted screw inside a part. Count me as someone who had elevated tin levels and the only rust was found to be on hose clamps that were not submerged. When, not if, that clamp starts to rust and you brush up against it you will be knocking rust into the water.

The clamps if used and tightened properly should never allow the hose to leak. Therefore they should not rust. You could also get stainless steel ones if you really wanted or change them out every few months. They cost cents at Home Depot to buy.

 

[TheEngineer]

They will rust from the humidity. They don't need water running over them. The ones from HD will rust.

We're getting off topic....

 

[Reefrookie220]

If the hose is at an angle, and is hold weight it’ll leak. As mentioned above the clamps/ties are secondary because the seal between the hose and barb should be complete. I’d definitely try a new hose cut to fit a tad better. And make sure you get a clean smooth cut.

 

[Danj]

The clamps are just there as a backup, the entire seal should be formed by the tubing and the barb.

This.

If the tube isn’t tight on the barb before a clamp is applied, it means the tube isn’t exactly the right size for the barb fitting. My guess would be a metric vs standard close-but-no-cigar problem.

When you have things apart, it would also be worth checking that a crack hasn’t developed at the base of the barb where it transitions to the threaded part of the fitting.

 

[CC13]

They will rust from the humidity. They don't need water running over them. The ones from HD will rust.

We're getting off topic....

There is no way that if that line is under pressure your not going to get a leak unless you use a clamp. Absolutely no chance.

Rust or no rust, if the rust is not touching water or dripping into your system then there is no risk of your water being contaminated.