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This.
If the tube isn’t tight on the barb before a clamp is applied, it means the tube isn’t exactly the right size for the barb fitting. My guess would be a metric vs standard close-but-no-cigar problem.
I find this unsupported by facts. I've seen numerous people on here with ICP tests that show elevated tin levels and they wind up finding some tiny rusted screw inside a part. Count me as someone who had elevated tin levels and the only rust was found to be on hose clamps that were not submerged. When, not if, that clamp starts to rust and you brush up against it you will be knocking rust into the water.
I've never been hit by a car, but I still look both ways before crossing the street.

Push fitting like the hose barb?
It's important to keep the information presented factually correct. This information will come up later when people search and we don't want them getting bad information. People posting suppositions based on anecdotal experience is not fact.
Again, let's get back to the OP's question.
Did you heat the hose before pushing it onto the barb?
No I mean like when you connect RO/DI tubing with John Guest fittings. Those fittings are made with seals inside them to keep the tubing from leaking under pressure.
A simple hose barb will leak unless you clamp it.
Again, that is unsupported by facts. Hose barbs are designed to hold a hose in place and sealed up to a specified pressure. This is why they are specified with blow off and pull of pressure. Clamps are simply a preventative, they are not a part of the seal.
Heating it prior to sliding onto the barb allows the cooling hose to form around any possible deformities on the barb.
Look twice and u can still be hit.I find this unsupported by facts. I've seen numerous people on here with ICP tests that show elevated tin levels and they wind up finding some tiny rusted screw inside a part. Count me as someone who had elevated tin levels and the only rust was found to be on hose clamps that were not submerged. When, not if, that clamp starts to rust and you brush up against it you will be knocking rust into the water.
I've never been hit by a car, but I still look both ways before crossing the street.
How many of them own salt tanks? Using metal clamps is a bad idea long term, I've been there and yes, rust is a problem in a compartment with humidity. I've been able to stay leak free for many years with plastic clamps. I had metal clamps rust and that will not happen anymore.Again this is incorrect.
A hose clamp is used to clamp AND seal.
I have 14 people in my family that are licensed plumbers. I have asked them many questions over my years of reefing.
And heating the tubing is not what you are supposed to do. Heating plastic tubing actually causes it to loose some of its rigidity.
I believe you missed the point and your taking it out of context.Look twice and u can still be hit.
How many of them own salt tanks? Using metal clamps is a bad idea long term, I've been there and yes, rust is a problem in a compartment with humidity. I've been able to stay leak free for many years with plastic clamps. I had metal clamps rust and that will not happen anymore.
I never clamped my return pump on the inlet side, ever...... but you use a clamp.
If you don't want to use a steel clamp then use titanium. If that's too expensive use plastic. Regardless, you need some sort of clamp on that fitting to prevent water from leaking. Pipe or tubing under pressure will 99% of the time leak unless your using a clamp of some sort. That is the main point of the debate in this thread.
I never clamped my return pump on the inlet side, ever.
Lol, I'm just sharing my experience and maybe you need to see there's more than one way to run a reef tank. I guess I'm "lucky". And sorry but metal clamps rusting above a sump not submerged can cause issues down the road but let's all agree to disagree.I guess you like to live dangerously. But your not the OP lol
You never had a leak, he does.
So he needs a clamp.

