Need helping with a leak

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jay1982
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After setting up and maintaining a few of the Red Sea systems. In my experience both leaks and constant adjustments come with the deal lol
 
This.

If the tube isn’t tight on the barb before a clamp is applied, it means the tube isn’t exactly the right size for the barb fitting. My guess would be a metric vs standard close-but-no-cigar problem.

I disagree with you. Unless pipe or tubing that is under pressure is glued, clamped or connected with some sort of push fitting, 99% of the time your going to develop a drip.
 
I find this unsupported by facts. I've seen numerous people on here with ICP tests that show elevated tin levels and they wind up finding some tiny rusted screw inside a part. Count me as someone who had elevated tin levels and the only rust was found to be on hose clamps that were not submerged. When, not if, that clamp starts to rust and you brush up against it you will be knocking rust into the water.


I've never been hit by a car, but I still look both ways before crossing the street.

I think your taking this to far haha. He asked for an opinion we all chimed in. Many people have used it and have had no issues. You’re comparing apples and oranges when it comes to tiny parts rusting being inside the sump ie submerged in water vs a clamp outside the water that may or may not rust. I don’t think he is going to go and sand the rust particulates on a daily bases as if he was seasoning his sump like salt bae :D
 
It's important to keep the information presented factually correct. This information will come up later when people search and we don't want them getting bad information. People posting suppositions based on anecdotal experience is not fact.

Again, let's get back to the OP's question.

Did you heat the hose before pushing it onto the barb?
 
Push fitting like the hose barb?

No I mean like when you connect RO/DI tubing with John Guest fittings. Those fittings are made with seals inside them to keep the tubing from leaking under pressure.

A simple hose barb will leak unless you clamp it.
 
It's important to keep the information presented factually correct. This information will come up later when people search and we don't want them getting bad information. People posting suppositions based on anecdotal experience is not fact.

Again, let's get back to the OP's question.

Did you heat the hose before pushing it onto the barb?

Op's question has been answered... use a clamp lol

There is nothing anecdotal about it. Pressure lines will leak unless they are glued or clamped.

FYI heating the hose will actually increase the chance of it leaking because it expands. You have a higher chance of it not leaking if you don't heat it and struggle to get it all the way on.
 
No I mean like when you connect RO/DI tubing with John Guest fittings. Those fittings are made with seals inside them to keep the tubing from leaking under pressure.

A simple hose barb will leak unless you clamp it.



Thanks for the clarification
 
Again, that is unsupported by facts. Hose barbs are designed to hold a hose in place and sealed up to a specified pressure. This is why they are specified with blow off and pull of pressure. Clamps are simply a preventative, they are not a part of the seal.

The OP likely has a bad seal with the hose. Heating it prior to sliding onto the barb allows the cooling hose to form around any possible deformities on the barb.
 
Why not just get another hose barb, and clamp?

I'm not sure why everyone is bickering about $5 at most in parts.

If op wants metal clamps let him get them. I have them on my tanks, and one has rusted, but no I'll effects on the tank. The clamp itself is stainless and not rusted, the bolt that comes with it is what had rusted.
 
Again, that is unsupported by facts. Hose barbs are designed to hold a hose in place and sealed up to a specified pressure. This is why they are specified with blow off and pull of pressure. Clamps are simply a preventative, they are not a part of the seal.

Heating it prior to sliding onto the barb allows the cooling hose to form around any possible deformities on the barb.

Again this is incorrect. A hose clamp is used to clamp AND seal. I have 14 people in my family that are licensed plumbers. I have asked them many questions over my years of reefing.

And heating the tubing is not what you are supposed to do. Heating plastic tubing actually causes it to loose some of its rigidity. Heating it is far easier to get on, but it does not return to its original size when cooled - its slightly larger.

Regardless, use a clamp.
 
I find this unsupported by facts. I've seen numerous people on here with ICP tests that show elevated tin levels and they wind up finding some tiny rusted screw inside a part. Count me as someone who had elevated tin levels and the only rust was found to be on hose clamps that were not submerged. When, not if, that clamp starts to rust and you brush up against it you will be knocking rust into the water.


I've never been hit by a car, but I still look both ways before crossing the street.
Look twice and u can still be hit.
 
Again this is incorrect.

A hose clamp is used to clamp AND seal.

I have 14 people in my family that are licensed plumbers. I have asked them many questions over my years of reefing.

And heating the tubing is not what you are supposed to do. Heating plastic tubing actually causes it to loose some of its rigidity.
How many of them own salt tanks? Using metal clamps is a bad idea long term, I've been there and yes, rust is a problem in a compartment with humidity. I've been able to stay leak free for many years with plastic clamps. I had metal clamps rust and that will not happen anymore.
 
How many of them own salt tanks? Using metal clamps is a bad idea long term, I've been there and yes, rust is a problem in a compartment with humidity. I've been able to stay leak free for many years with plastic clamps. I had metal clamps rust and that will not happen anymore.

..... but you use a clamp.

If you don't want to use a steel clamp then use titanium. If that's too expensive use plastic. Regardless, you need some sort of clamp on that fitting to prevent water from leaking. Pipe or tubing under pressure will 99% of the time leak unless your using a clamp of some sort. That is the main point of the debate in this thread.

I am not saying that I have never had metal clamps rust because I have also. I changed them out or went with titanium.

If you don't want to use a clamp, install a PVC bushing and glue PVC pipe into it.
 
..... but you use a clamp.

If you don't want to use a steel clamp then use titanium. If that's too expensive use plastic. Regardless, you need some sort of clamp on that fitting to prevent water from leaking. Pipe or tubing under pressure will 99% of the time leak unless your using a clamp of some sort. That is the main point of the debate in this thread.
I never clamped my return pump on the inlet side, ever.
 
I guess you like to live dangerously. But your not the OP lol

You never had a leak, he does.

So he needs a clamp.
Lol, I'm just sharing my experience and maybe you need to see there's more than one way to run a reef tank. I guess I'm "lucky". And sorry but metal clamps rusting above a sump not submerged can cause issues down the road but let's all agree to disagree.
 

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