Never going to use live rock again

Thanks everyone. I see some people on this thread with very successful tanks who would swear by live rock, and in that case if you say I SHOULD use live rock nothing else, then how would I go about making sure it's quality live rock. Remember, many of the online vendors who sell quality live rock can't sell to me, CITES and all, so how can I make sure it's ood rock.
 
The best way to tell is to see it. But in the case you can't, I'm sure someone here has bought from the place you are looking for. Find a place and ask the forum for review. :-)
 
Always get the live rock from vendors who certify it eunicid worm / gorilla crab /mantis shrimp / pest anenome / algae plague free.
Then you can rest certain that your diverse completely harmonious reef system full of wonderous fuzzies from mother gaea will never have to undergo a 400 gallon tear down to get at the monster thing that is munching your prize chalices like chips ahoy cookies in the dark.

Seriously - true story...
but hey - its diverse...
 
I would love to get a eucenid worm or mantis shrimp but to each his own lol
 
I know I was just playing I have quite a bit of live rock and I have never been lucky enough for those hitchhikers. The best I got was a small decorator crab. Not even a pistol shrimp:-(
 
I started my new tank with 50 pounds of fresh live rock, 30-40 pounds from my old tank and 10 pounds of base rock. The fresh live rock has not grown any bad algae but the base rock is constantly growing hair algae and bryopsis. I believe that the good algae and other life keeps bad algae from taking hold. Just 1 tank and I know others with nicer tanks than mine started with clean base rock so find what works for you and stick with.
 
I've been fighting a leeching problem for over a year now,
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As you can see in the 3rd pic there's plenty of algae but you absolutely need to keep up with water changes, it's the only way to dilute the extra nutrients. You also want to make sure you're not added food that is phosphate rich i.e. brine. I started with dry rock with sand, removed the sand, had some algae blooms from the leeching and now it's gradually going away. Have faith!
 
I disagree that's po4 related not to be challenging but to forward algae control science

It's my option we'd have beaten that 12 mos ago with a few spot treatments changing nothing about nutrients. Your grazing doesn't match a very minor production, very sparse. It persists not due to po4 problems but because it's adapted to growing in fine water which is what feeds grazers. Your reef is in balance, not out of balance. Opting out of spot treatments we've documented time and time again stopping that growth is fine but it doesn't mean all has been tried. Against the grain of common claims, merely attacking that tuft system that catches and holds its own detrital feed will make it go away, there's not spots in the rock leaching and some not, that's just where the holdfasts happened to land and bloom into a self feeding, self sustaining non grazed community. For sure we could stop that and make another prediction work out. Just stating a researchable searchable option that's a three day issue not an 18 mo one


Prob three attempts and you won't have much regrowth given the same water quality than you've ever had for the life of the tank. Those corals like your current nutrient levels, it's clear. Most just don't believe a non nutrient fix exists but thats not what our threads show going six years. I wouldn't claim any way is best, only claiming certain timing options.
 
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These are excellent examples of what true hands off live rock can grow

Unpredictability and varying headaches, or for the hands on crew every single shipment behaves from day one to day 4000 per specific threads.

We make them run proactively, not reactively. On our time, not the live rocks. I can see why people would hate it better after some of the options shown, it would be neat if just one entrant wanted to fix the tank in the same thread just to give the hands on crew a try.

Live rock can vary in its primary production

What doesn't vary is the ability to allow, or disallow algae at every phase. Purposely leaving it in and treating the water, never the algae, is only one option. Complete and total command is another and can be undertaken at any phase, early or late. I'll make a counter case for live rock.


Po4 issues are grossly over attributed to live rock algae it's rare for it to be an issue, not common. The greater public has not tried hands on, or they would have a different take. Allowed to run its course without grazer balance the live rock is being asked to do something unnatural, not sprout a single algae or we'll leave it place.
 
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Brandon is saying is its more a matter of husbandry than chemistry. Directly eliminate those tufts of algae in a permanent manner and they will not be back...

On natural reefs where grazers are eliminated by over fishing for example you'll see overgrowths of algae. Its not the chemistry thats off - its the grazing thats insufficient.

Brandon is suggesting that you can step in and easily fill the gap through manual methods.
 
I mean I run GFO, weekly water changes, feeding new life spectrum and mysis, I have a sailfin to help as well. Sorry don't want to make the thread about me but it's literally a nonstop battle. Pm me if you'd like but just putting my experience out there. Never had algae after the typical blooms before with dry rock until I messed with the sand bed and removed it, now it's always there
 
Elton the only reason I type that stuff is because it hasn't been good enough, last twenty years of books and articles about algae control.

I lost a tank I'd put a lot of work into because nobody knew red gelidium can simply be killed independent of all nutrient issues. It's a requisite hitchhiker. Once it's DNA is gone, independent of nutrients, it can't come back until someone non qt's it again. So when it came back in my new reef on euphyllia frags I'd brought in, it was just killed. Haven't seen it since about 2010 ish.

Robert on your algae threads regarding ATS or refugiums to me they are ok if they work and someone can command them well, not downing the many examples they've collected too

But we are unique in our time frame acquisitions and it's another option.


Green hair algae variants and possibly frondy bryopsis mixes like you have Elton are widespread, they bloom by import, light and water, not much we can do. That very light patchy growth speaks amazing to your efforts for water control that didn't strip your corals, if you try a single test patch you will be shocked. I'm advocating reef cheating. That's hard to digest and the crowd doesn't advise it. But I'm telling you the collection of fixes is growing


Look at this zeovit tank

http://reef2reef.com/threads/sick-of-gha-going-to-start-dosing-perxoide.212043/
Yours is not the same challenge and we would not do it this way. This is his preferred mode for a large tank yours is no where near the challenge, work or risk whatsoever. It's to show we have command within a tank that's far worse, yours would be like putting at candy land :)

live rock and ocean substrates have potentiation built in to pretty much always toss some up. Not denying exacting po4 controls can stop algae for many I'm just claiming thousands of tanks won't respond to total fix of the algae, and they'll carry the load you show after doing the max work. We fix those right up

I can see an easy test for your tank, we simply do nothing tank wide and risk nothing. Establish a proof timeline with s single test patch on a single rock. I claim that spot will die in about two days and not come back for long enough you'll want to do it all. One test patch commits nothing, risks nothing tank wide, and is a direct model of how your rest will go. Each time it goes down like this and if we do it, I'll be using your tank as an example link

The specifics are, both Kent tech m and peroxide are cheats that are algaecidal to the cells, different than just hand removing or essentially mowing and leaving a holdfast. We don't dump this stuff in your tank, that's what the masses do.

we spot access it, not apply it to the whole tank, even if it means working inside your tank, and the chemical burns the spots out and your tank looks perfect going one spot at a time and last months and you are happy = prediction we can retro command live rock. We're about to Caesar Milan that reef rock.

******rocks in the ocean, in wonderful Fiji, grow algae that feed grazers because that's what live rock does, it's rarely po4. Simple nongrazing is the greater cause and true bound nutrients hardly the cause time will show. And more giant threads will show.



My link above prob does have nutrient issues but we were palette cleaning not po4 hunting, first. You have done the opposite, full po4 prepping and no palette cleaning. Merely a direct kill will have slow to hardly any grow back because of your nutrient controls, to me that's the measure of gfo, as the great preventer not remover

We do the removing
 
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