NEW BUILD BUT WORRIED ABOUT DINO.

[loweryphil]

So my current system I am currently going through a dino problem. I know what caused it. I changed salt and did lots of water changes to try and get my kh and calcium in check but doing so made it a dino Haven.

Anyway I am currently doing a 4 day black out with dino x.

I have a new 525L DD reef pro ordered and wish to transfer my rock and corals but worry that doing so will make them explode again, with 500l of clean pristine water.

Is there anyway I could transfer my rock and corals across safely?

 

[loweryphil]

May I add, my nitrate is now 25 and phosphate 0.1

 

[gideon2086]

I recommend letting the coral sit in a QT while the new tank cycles. some say you can bleach the rock... but personally I’d replace it. I’d rather spend the money on rock than deal with Dino’s again.

 

[andrewey]

Replacing the rock is unlikely to solve the problem. Far too many have tried only to get Dino's a month later. Let's start at the beginning- which dino do you have?

 

[loweryphil]

Replacing the rock is unlikely to solve the problem. Far too many have tried only to get Dino's a month later. Let's start at the beginning- which dino do you have?

I have osteo... It dissapears at night mostly, a previous black out for 3 days did got rid of 90% of them so with 4 days plus dino x I recon I've got it covered.

My main worry is them getting into my new display as it will be a lot harder to do black outs on.

My new build starts on the 21st (hopefully filling too) so within this time frame I need them gone.

 

[andrewey]

Have you checked the dino thread? If you get a properly sized UV and keep your nutrients at the right level + increase biodiversity with the new build, you should be able to get them eradicated or under control by then.

 

[andrewey]

I wouldn't rely too much on the blackouts- I found it to be more of a bandaid or tool then a solution.

 

[loweryphil]

I Will be installing a uv on the new system, I'm hoping the dino x will sort things.

So transfering the rock in two weeks won't be like gas on fire to them if let's say they're gone when the covers come off on Tuesday?

 

[gideon2086]

Replacing the rock is unlikely to solve the problem. Far too many have tried only to get Dino's a month later. Let's start at the beginning- which dino do you have?

He’s starting a new tank. He’s asking if he should transfer the rock.

 

[gideon2086]

I Will be installing a uv on the new system, I'm hoping the dino x will sort things.

So transfering the rock in two weeks won't be like gas on fire to them if let's say they're gone when the covers come off on Tuesday?

Dino’s are never gone. They will always be in that system. If you keep your parameters under control they won’t bloom. That’s why I recommend tossing the rock. If you put that rock in a new system with bottomed out no3 and po4 they will likely takeover again.

 

[andrewey]

He’s starting a new tank. He’s asking if he should transfer the rock.

Yes- I think the transfer will be like fuel on a fire. I'm saying that if you can get the UV started today, increase the nutrients, and increase biodiversity, he has a chance that during the transfer, if he transfers the UV over at the same time, the new salt water, while being a fuel for the dinos, won't be devestating.

I disagree with the idea of tossing the rock. There's no evidence that will do anything, given the fact the dinos are on the coral, equipment, etc.

 

[andrewey]

You can find most of this has been covered here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/dinoflagellates-–-are-you-tired-of-battling-altogether.293318/

This includes people's experience with tossing rocks, tank transfers, dino X, etc.

 

[loweryphil]

Dino’s are never gone. They will always be in that system. If you keep your parameters under control they won’t bloom. That’s why I recommend tossing the rock. If you put that rock in a new system with bottomed out no3 and po4 they will likely takeover again.

What if I were to transfer some existing water across which already has no3 and po4 in it? Maybe 150l. Nutrients will be present straight away and if I did a heavy feed on day one?

 

[andrewey]

Honestly, I would buy some sodium nitrate and phosphate and dose them into the new water to either match your current levels or maintain >10ppm nitrate and .1 phosphate. You could transfer the water if the levels are high enough that after dilution they hit those levels.

 

[gideon2086]

What if I were to transfer some existing water across which already has no3 and po4 in it? Maybe 150l. Nutrients will be present straight away and if I did a heavy feed on day one?

I personally would not. I think there are two paths to potentially walk here:

a) QT and treat the coral. New rock. Bleach equipment.

b) transfer rock, continue the battle (add a good UV as instructed).

 

[andrewey]

@gideon2086 - I agree with you 100% about the two paths with the understanding that normal QT timeframes (~76 days) are likely not going to guarantee dinos are not present on the newly introduced coral.

 

[loweryphil]

I still have two weeks to sort this out, but I believe I'm finally understanding how to win the battle. As stated above the only thing I was concerned about was putting the rocks into pristine new water. But that can be solved by dosing nitrate and phosphate to the tank. Which I believe won't cause a gass on fire explosion if they are still present

 

[ScottB]

I would argue it is impossible not to have any dinos at all. It is possible to manage the water such that they can dominate. Getting a properly sized UV running and dosing up the water is your best bet. There is a chance they make a surge in the beginning with all of the biome change going on, but you should be able to manage them -- especially if they are ostreopsis.

If your rock has some age & diversity in it I would keep it alive and transfer it over.

 

[loweryphil]

I would argue it is impossible not to have any dinos at all. It is possible to manage the water such that they can dominate. Getting a properly sized UV running and dosing up the water is your best bet. There is a chance they make a surge in the beginning with all of the biome change going on, but you should be able to manage them -- especially if they are ostreopsis.

If your rock has some age & diversity in it I would keep it alive and transfer it over.

The current rock is about 4 years old so I'd say lots of life yes. And I'd rather not part with it as it has corals glued all over. Properly sized uv meaning one that treats over my tank volume? And sodium nitrate and phosphate up to 10 and 1ppm.

 

[andrewey]

I wouldn't choose a UV based on what the manufacturer recommends as it's not necessarily rating for dinos. For ostreoposis, it seems the UV should be 1 watt for every 2-3 gallons. This can be accomplished with a lot of the more reputable brands or cheaply with something like the 60w jebaos. Undersizing your UV seems not to work well for eradication.