new popbloom rs90

[Oliver@DSunY]

soft&lps settings

时间	8:00	8:30	9:00	9:30	10:00	10:30	11:00	20:00	20:30	21:00	21:30	22:00	22:15	22:30	23:30	23:45
Ch1	0	0	0	5	15	30	50	50	30	20	5	0	0	0	0	0
Ch2	0	10	25	45	80	90	100	100	90	80	40	20	10	50	50	0
Ch3	0	0	0	5	25	50	100	100	50	25	5	0	0	0	0	0
Ch4	0	5	10	15	20	35	60	60	35	20	10	5	0	0	0	0

 

[Koh23]

Apologies, it was some time ago, i totally missed that picture. I assumed that there is some thermal "thingy"....

May i aks, why is thermal pad better than thermal paste? I mean, i dont aks what thermal pad u use, but, for example, thermal paste i have is declared at 12.5 W/mk, and i'm really not sure what pad can beat that in terms of "performance".

Or there is some other reason to use pad, clearance between heatsink and led maybe?

Thanx for offer, but if its possible to avoid sendind pads across the world and simply use thermal paste... Dont want to bother you with packing, shipping....

And thank you for settings.

 

[Oliver@DSunY]

yes, the thermal performance of paste is better then pads when only compare W/mk.
the proformance of past is not best but enought.

the best working temperature for led is less 80C degree.
Assume the aluminum is 50-55C degree (fan ensure this) . the temp before the past and after the past is less then 5C degree. then the led is working at 55-60C degree.



The disadvantage
1, not easy to remove to replace the LED. ( paste like glue)
2, easy dirty for hands and table when worker assamble the light.
3, difficult to control the dogage without special glue machine.

 

[Oliver@DSunY]

yes, you can use the paste . there is no any tiny different for thermal performance, the more. the better.
Please
1,the more. the better.
2,not in the hole for screwer.
3,run the light for fast dry if you want.

 

[Koh23]

I use at least quarter of tube daily, so, not a problem to apply thermal paste. (I'm using it on cpu's, graphic cards, various chips), and i have it at hand.

So i'm used to dirty hands

Of course, this is probably totaly unecessary, dont have any problem with lights, rather professional deformation, i just replace paste after 12 months on anything

 

[Harold999]

Anyone else noticed stray voltage on the heatsink? I just did when i touched it by coincidence.
I opened the fixture for a good cleanup and looked for troubles but nothing to see. The light functions well, just some stray voltage (i guess 24 or 36v) at the heatsink.

 

[Harold999]

Anyone else noticed stray voltage on the heatsink? I just did when i touched it by coincidence.
I opened the fixture for a good cleanup and looked for troubles but nothing to see. The light functions well, just some stray voltage (i guess 24 or 36v) at the heatsink.

Okay solved the issue. Took the fixture apart again but now even further. I took the pcb + led apart from the heatsink, and there was saltwater crawl underneath it. Cleaned it and the stray voltage has disappeared. Saltwater can enter there because there is a small gap between the lens and the housing. This is something to look into because i think everyone will face this in the end sooner or later. A future updated model should close that gap with a ring.

 

[Koh23]

Ok, so i totaly disassembled one light, to remove thermal pads and replace it with thermal paste.

A bit tricky, beside under the led, thermal pads are also beneath pcb boards behind led, and on pcb on left side, really not sure why?

Maybe a bit unnecessary job, but, after removing led, i found that thermal pad is kinda blistering, bubbling, not sure how to call it.

Also, underneat thermal pad was some moisture??, Or some oily residue, not sure what it is exactly? Any info?

To be honest, i wish that heatsing is a bit polished and flattened where led is placed, this grainy texture probably kills a lot of heat transfering capabilities from led to heatsink.

Well, maybe that will be my next project - flatten and polish heatsink base, and, maybe replace fan with something bigger and with better airlow and pressure. Maybe....

Back to important things, please, tell me that this moisture or oil beneath led are some super top secret stuff, designed to improve performance of light, because, right now..... Very close to discard this light, moisture + electronic = not so good match.

Oh yes, i forgot to mention - a big discoloration is noticed on lower side of led. Back of led, to be specific. Again, not sure why? Temperature? That mentioned oily thingy like moisture?

 

[alain Bouchard]

Ok, so i totaly disassembled one light, to remove thermal pads and replace it with thermal paste.

A bit tricky, beside under the led, thermal pads are also beneath pcb boards behind led, and on pcb on left side, really not sure why?

Maybe a bit unnecessary job, but, after removing led, i found that thermal pad is kinda blistering, bubbling, not sure how to call it.

Also, underneat thermal pad was some moisture??, Or some oily residue, not sure what it is exactly? Any info?

To be honest, i wish that heatsing is a bit polished and flattened where led is placed, this grainy texture probably kills a lot of heat transfering capabilities from led to heatsink.

Well, maybe that will be my next project - flatten and polish heatsink base, and, maybe replace fan with something bigger and with better airlow and pressure. Maybe....

Back to important things, please, tell me that this moisture or oil beneath led are some super top secret stuff, designed to improve performance of light, because, right now..... Very close to discard this light, moisture + electronic = not so good match.

Oh yes, i forgot to mention - a big discoloration is noticed on lower side of led. Back of led, to be specific. Again, not sure why? Temperature? That mentioned oily thingy like moisture?

I believe that oily residue is normal for thermal pads. seen that on almost every gpu heatsink I have disassembled in my life. I wouldn't worry about it. a good thermal pad should never be dry. I would be a bit concerned about the discoloration though...if I understand its on the pcb side, not on the lens? do you have a picture?

 

[Harold999]

I was assuming that the moisty residu was saltwatercreep causing the stray voltage on my heatsink?
Anyhow, i wiped it clean, assembled the light again, and the stray voltage was gone.

 

[Koh23]

Yes that moisture is only below thermal pad, so, it can be just part of it. To be honest newer saw anything simmilar, but, really can't tell.

Discoloration is on pcb side, not on diodes. Sadly no pic, tommorow i will work on second unit, if moisture/discoloration is identical, then i guess it is normal. If not, well, not sure what can be the cause.

It is not salt creep, everything on that side is perfectly clean.

 

[oreo54]

Yes that moisture is only below thermal pad, so, it can be just part of it. To be honest newer saw anything simmilar, but, really can't tell.

Discoloration is on pcb side, not on diodes. Sadly no pic, tommorow i will work on second unit, if moisture/discoloration is identical, then i guess it is normal. If not, well, not sure what can be the cause.

It is not salt creep, everything on that side is perfectly clean.

Not that it matters but I've always preferred thermal silicones.
Good glue, waterproof, and fair conductivity.
Not the easiest thing to use though.
For personal use it's fine. For " industry" not so much.

This stuff in particular.
Takes for- ever to dry but cheap and works well. Bit hard to find and Tian- mu products are a bit confusing.
Anyways has no " number" and comes in a purple box.

.

"Heatsink plaster" is very common on ebay ect.

 

[Koh23]

I avoid using this "chinese" plasters, thermal glues, compounds, etc.....

Mainly, they all have thermal conductivity of dead hamster, secondly, glue is too weak in most cases.

Thermal paste, something like arctic, thermaltake or similar is much better. Or their versions of thermal glue.

Not to offend anyone, i'm sure that among these "chinese" product acctualy have some good stuff.

Well, back to topic, second unit dont have issues with blistering of thermal pad, nor that moisture-oil, nor the discoloration.

So....not sure what now....

 

[oreo54]

I avoid using this "chinese" plasters, thermal glues, compounds, etc.....

Mainly, they all have thermal conductivity of dead hamster, secondly, glue is too weak in most cases

Not to offend anyone, i'm sure that among these "chinese" product acctualy have some good stuff.


So....not sure what now....

No I get your take on this.
I started out using Arctic silver 2 part epoxy.
Found it is as strong (test was removing stars from aluminum) as the Tian stuff.
Never had an issue popping stars off the sink
Also found my heatsinks getting just as hot with both.

It's listed conductivity.
Believe this was not as good as 3m thermal pad material which lists 1.0-4.9 depending.
Shear strength 11 Mps.
Shore hardness 50.

thermal conductivity: 1.5 W/(m K)

I've seen it listed as low as 1.0.
To be honest, when I choose the stuff I never saw a low number like 1.



Since giving up drilling and tapping I never could use non-adhesive material.
As to 3m
I could never find small lots though.
Didn't need 5 meters of it nor the sticky both sides like plain old 5515 without the "s".

Part of the point is to at least check numbers .
I could get " equal" or better conducting 3m pads.



5516,5519 also are better.
There are other brands than 3m of course.

Thing, in my mind, right or wrong, is "I" can make it as thin or thick as I want...
Theory is to just fill minor unevenness.

Interesting find about Arctic silver .

Claims and test results
Edit
The company claims that AS-5's thermal conductivity is 8.7 W/(m·K). However, a study led by the US National Renewable Energy Laboratory found that it was only 0.94 W/(m·K).[4] The study lauded Shin-Etsu X-23-7762-S and Dow Corning TC-5022 for their better thermal performance.

Sorry,just wanted to add some data.

 

[Koh23]

So far, after cleaning and replacing pads with paste, everything is ok. Subjective observation is that light is slightly cooler to touch than the other, but this can be unrelated.

Still didnt manage to find time to open other unit to see is that moisture/discoloration is there, but, i will....

Ok, now i need advice from category "crystall ball".....

I know that nobody can tell for sure, but educated guess is better than no guess.

Since i have "only" two units on 130x60x60 tank, which is so far enought for softies and lps, even some sps (dont like them so really dont care), there are some shadowing, from plates,rock and corals. So, for spread i added 4x54w t5. Ati blue and ati actinic.

Apologies for long intro..... Since there is no way to get hands on par meter, either to rent, borrow or buy one, i really need guess, how much i need to dial down leds, i assume that 100% on channels and 4x54w t5 is way too much for soft and lps corals? Or maybe it isnt?

I know nobody can tell for sure, but any info, idea, suggestion is really helpfull!

 

[Lcoca]

What brackets are recommended for these lights? Plan to mount on the wall. Newbie, purchased an established tank and getting my feet wet.

 

[Oliver@DSunY]

the normal arm kit supports the way of install on the wall.

 

[ManuGuerrer0]

Hi! Its my fisrt post here in this thread, thank u all for all the information u shared here!

I need help with my RS90... I don't know what program to use to make my aquarium look nice and grow healthy, but without having to worry too much about an algae outbreak or explosion... I have seen that a colleague, ALAIN BOUCHARD, uses the 4seasons%lunar program and it's doing great, so I would like you to share with me, if anyone has it, the hour-by-hour programming of that mode, so I can adjust it to the hours of light that I want, which are a maximum of 9 or 10...
Also So, if any of you have managed to create your own program in which the colors look beautiful, and the overall functioning of the aquarium looks healthy, I would like you to share it with me.

Thats all friends, greetings and thank you very much!
Thats my aquairum right now!

 

[ManuGuerrer0]

the normal arm kit supports the way of install on the wall.

Hi Oliver! Can u read the post I write after you and help me with my trouble?
Thx!

 

[SBright19]

I’m looking at getting 2 of the RL90s for a foot foot tank. Based on what I’ve read these seem like a good option for the price point. Would be mounting to my rimless tank with the arms. Any one have any insight?