new popbloom rs90

I really appreciate that Alain share the power issue information here. This will much help others learn more about the real situation of this lamp. I am even more grateful for his help in open the power to find out the problem.

Background :
2021 Jan 1 2 pcs RS90 begin to work
2021 Mar 3 add 2 more begin to work
2023 Jan 15 2 pcs power broken
2023 Jan 28 the thirds power broken

Analysis:
* 3 independent power supply almost simultaneously bad, So I asked open them.
* All are "capacitor- broken". Also the internal GND line turned from bright yellow to grayish yellow. So I focus on what make the internal temperature so high which cause the cap broken.
* we together check the enviroment, seems all are normal.
* I asked R&D lab test the temperature at statuse: input 110 Voltage Wattage : 95W , simulate normal room temp, cap < 95C , shell < 58C after run 24 hours. all are lower than the standard requirement of CE, FCC. TUV. ( the following show them).
* RS 90 Just two and a half years on the market,too small a sample to analyze failure rates after 2 year working.
* there is 0.01% broken in 1 and 2 year. now I know no one contacted us that more than 1 power supply was broken.
* Power suppliers are helping to do more temperature testing in unusual situations

Improvement:
* Warranty time of power extended to 2 years. The power is free and shipping cost is free under the warranty.
* we promise ship a new power in 24 hours after the user show the power problem in the video.


I am very sorry for this and thank Alain again.
 
1676083313596.png
 
Please do not hesitate to let me know if you have any question or if what do you need me to answer
Maybe just cheap capacitors. Wouldn't have much to do with heat...

Premature failure​

All electrolytic capacitors with non-solid electrolyte age over time, due to evaporation of the electrolyte. The capacitance usually decreases and the ESR usually increases. The normal lifespan of a non-solid electrolytic capacitor of consumer quality, typically rated at 2000 h/85 °C and operating at 40 °C, is roughly 6 years. It can be more than 10 years for a 1000 h/105 °C capacitor operating at 40 °C. Electrolytic capacitors that operate at a lower temperature can have a considerably longer lifespan.

The capacitance should normally degrade to as low as 70% of the rated value, and the ESR increase to twice the rated value, over the normal life span of the component, before it should be considered as a "degradation failure".[19][20] The life of an electrolytic capacitor with defective electrolyte can be as little as two years. The capacitor may fail prematurely after reaching approximately 30% to 50% of its expected lifetime.
Background :
2021 Jan 1 2 pcs RS90 begin to work
2021 Mar 3 add 2 more begin to work
2023 Jan 15 2 pcs power broken
2023 Jan 28 the thirds power broken

coincidence.. ???
I really don't expect the cheap power supplies to last more than 2-3 years.
2 Year warranty isn't worth much to be honest.

Looks like every one is experiencing seal failure..
caprot.JPG


If you have proven to yourself it is not a heat issue then it is probably a cap issue...
 
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yes, the life is upto internal temperature.
A 90Watt power, If the efficiency is 90%, there is 9Watt change to temperature. Normally the internal temp is high than 80C.

That is why the warranty for power is 1 year (even Apple, Sony).

Yes, Solid capacitor is much better. more and more power use them. But until now, I think more than 80% is no-solid capacitor. If you do not believe, you can turn on your side of the discarded power supply to see.
 
yes, the life is upto internal temperature.
A 90Watt power, If the efficiency is 90%, there is 9Watt change to temperature. Normally the internal temp is high than 80C.

That is why the warranty for power is 1 year (even Apple, Sony).

Yes, Solid capacitor is much better. more and more power use them. But until now, I think more than 80% is no-solid capacitor. If you do not believe, you can turn on your side of the discarded power supply to see.
Like I said, this is a bit of an opinion.
And I wasn't even suggesting going with a different class of cap.. just a better electrolytic one.

You are correct bad caps are all over the place and certainly not limited to your power supplies.
I recently had an N2Power power supply die with swollen caps.
It happens but that was after 5 years of use.

I'm suggesting in the nicest way that you may want to require your power supply manufacturer to put better electrolytics in there.

Yea cheap ones may have 2% die in 2 ys
25% die in 3
and 75% die in 4 years

Extending a warranty from 1 yr to 2 is no big deal.
If you have faith in them go at least 3 years..

Like I said this is meant as constructive criticism and partly my opinion on the matter.
I am GLAD you addressed the problem and at least offered some improvement.

AND I certainly am not intending on singling out your company. This is a more or less global issue.
Sony included .. ;)
Wit hleds lasting 5 plus years the system should as well.
an $18 power supply.... 3 year warranty.
Be a leader not a follower..
meanwellwarr.JPG
 
It is unfair that the user has to replace his power in 2 years,I am very confident that Warranties don't cost us much.
* Warranty time of power extended to 2 years. The power is free and shipping cost is free under the warranty.
* we promise ship a new power in 24 hours after the user show the power problem in the video.


Infact all the power factory give PopBloom 3 years warranty about his product.

Please.
we never see the warranty to compensate us for the loss of replacing power supplies to our customers .
We see the warranty more as a confidence and a guarantee in case there is a bulk problem.
A year of bad power supply is too little is not worth communicating with the factory.....
 
thanks Oliver, I received the replacement power supply. I strongly believe there have been a change in the PS from when I bought them vs now. All four of my old PS used to get very hot when running the lights. As I mentioned, once I received the replacement ones, I used 4 different PS on my four lights. 1st is the surviving original PS, second is the new popbloom PS you just sent, 3rd is a generic 5amp PS open air cooling, and 4th is a generic 6amp sealed PS. All 4 lamp are grouped so they all shine at same power, 100% on 4 chans from 11h30-17h30. I checked temp of PS at 17h00, the original PS was the hottest, could almost not keep hand on it for more than a minute (Id estimate probably over 50c); while the new PS Oliver sent me were the coolest, just pleasantly warm (around 30c). the generics PS were hot but less than original PS, probably around 40-45c.
 
Yes, the PS is update due to the LD IC update at the end of the 2021. From the test report of QC, seems all are same.
Sorry, it is no way to find out a PS of 2020 verison now.

We have carefully evaluated oreo54 proposal of 3 years.

It is also true that this is a single event .We are confident that 3 years is no problem.
but we also have to worried about other non-Product Issues or human damage.
Please think about in internet sales, we can't check the power supply and usage environment face to face, we can only get the information from the pictures.

But protecting hobbiers and their reef is even more impotant.
so, accept it.
Non-human damage, 3 years warranty for the PS order before 2022,1,1.

condition:
1,normal use with RS90 package
2, ambient temperature < 40
3, No stacking, no piling up, correct placement


thank oreo54 for the advice again.
 
i was wondering if any one knew of any good programs with each channel to make it look good pop coral and make the fish look good so prettty much all around look good lol thank u
 
the default mode "Vivid Color" is designed for common applications of coral and fish tank if no one suggest his good program.
 
What I did, is start with vivid color like Oliver suggested, and modify it to suit my personal preferences: longer days at 100% on 4 cans, slower ramp up and down, more blue on ramp up&down; etc.
 
hola compañeros alguni medido el par del par de las turing30?

translation:
hello colleagues, has anyone measured the torque of the pair of the turing30?
 
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Hi, just wanted to give an update on the power supply issue I had. Looks like it might have been my fault all along. I had the lamps installed on the same rack I made for 2x80w t5ho lamps. I found out last week that The rack was building up inducted voltage around 200-220vac. I cannot confirm that the induced voltage was affecting in any way the power supplies; via the heatsink or wires. I fixed my issue and grounded my racks correctly now. I informed Oliver of this and am waiting for his input on this.
 
The DC of the power is connect to the GND of AC. the lamp GND is also connect to the aluminum.

DC Vcc->lamp Vcc->lamp->lamp Gnd->DC Gnd

when lamp Gnd <> DC Gnd, there is current leakage. which means “Power consumed”。 in other words, the output of the power is bigger than the power of the lamp.

I think we find out the reason. :)
 
Quick question, for owners or lights, and/or Oliver....

Is any thermal solution used beneath led chip, in contact with aluminium heatsink?

Thermal pads, paste, etc?

Lights are now 2y old, and i wonder is therr any thermal solution, so i can replace it? Of course i can disassembly light and remove led cluster, but....

Also, in random video (not sure where), i saw that new wireless version comes with multiple presets, so i wonder, is anyone willing to write or take pic for soft&lps settings, channel percentages, durations, etc......


Thanks!
 
Quick question, for owners or lights, and/or Oliver....

Is any thermal solution used beneath led chip, in contact with aluminium heatsink?

Thermal pads, paste, etc?

Lights are now 2y old, and i wonder is therr any thermal solution, so i can replace it? Of course i can disassembly light and remove led cluster, but....

Also, in random video (not sure where), i saw that new wireless version comes with multiple presets, so i wonder, is anyone willing to write or take pic for soft&lps settings, channel percentages, durations, etc......


Thanks!
is you check at the photos I posted at the begining of this thread, there is one showing the led module and the heatsink, you can clearly see the thermal padcompressed between them.
 
--Is any thermal solution used beneath led chip, in contact with aluminium heatsink?

--Thermal pads, paste, etc?

Yes, there are thermal pads beneath led chip.
thermal pads is better than thermal solution, it is more clean and easy to replace.

attached pictures show them
 
thermal pads.

sorry, there are some mark due to the touch of my hands .

1690373484299.png



5 pcs is enough ? free for you and you only pay the shipping cost .
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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