New RO setup

[ParrotHead310]

Hooked up my RO system so I can finally start filling up my Reefer 350. RO is a BRS 75gbd. Everything seems to be running ok but I'm only showing 16psi. Should I be concerned with that? I think I read it should be at 40psi. The DI stage wasn't filling all the way with water so I unscrewed it a bit until it filled up and re-tightened it. Waste line has a steady flow of water coming out and the water is coming out of the float valve as a trickle. My incoming TDS is a 4, outgoing 0. I'm on a well and have a water softener, neutralizer, and UV light hooked up.

If anyone else is running on a well system, any issues with depleting the well making large quantities of RO?

 

[Klyle]

BRS has a lot of informative videos on their RODI units and how to deal with different scenarios ie: low water pressure. I'm not on a well but mine runs at 60 psi. When I turn the flush valve on it drops to around 15ish psi. Are you sure your flush valve is closed? BRS recommends 50+ psi through their systems. If your below 50 you will need to purchase a booster pump. The lower your pressure goes the less efficient the ro membrane is at removing stuff. I would check out their YouTube videos

 

[Reef.]

If your pressure is really that low, then that will slow down production and also means the membrane will not be as efficient, if you are not too bothered about speed and your RO water is coming out at zero then you don’t have to get a booster pump, just means your di may need changing that little bit sooner.
A booster pump will really speed things up tho.

As for your di container not filling up, that’s fine, the way it works is the only way out for the water is to go through the di container as the exit hole is at the top of the container.

 

[Dunc]

Hooked up my RO system so I can finally start filling up my Reefer 350. RO is a BRS 75gbd. Everything seems to be running ok but I'm only showing 16psi. Should I be concerned with that? I think I read it should be at 40psi. The DI stage wasn't filling all the way with water so I unscrewed it a bit until it filled up and re-tightened it. Waste line has a steady flow of water coming out and the water is coming out of the float valve as a trickle. My incoming TDS is a 4, outgoing 0. I'm on a well and have a water softener, neutralizer, and UV light hooked up.

If anyone else is running on a well system, any issues with depleting the well making large quantities of RO?

You need to be pushing 75 psi through the membrane. You need a booster pump to get there. Here is my set up.

 

[Klyle]

I'm petty sure you only need 50-60 psi. But 75 is better

 

[Dunc]

I'm petty sure you only need 50-60 psi. But 75 is better

According to BRS you need at least 30 psi, and they recommend 75 to 80 psi.

 

[Klyle]

According to BRS you need at least 30 psi, and they recommend 75 to 80 psi.

I just looked at their recommendations for the 75 gpd value plus model. It says minimum 50 maximum 90

 

[Robertellis30]

Hooked up my RO system so I can finally start filling up my Reefer 350. RO is a BRS 75gbd. Everything seems to be running ok but I'm only showing 16psi. Should I be concerned with that? I think I read it should be at 40psi. The DI stage wasn't filling all the way with water so I unscrewed it a bit until it filled up and re-tightened it. Waste line has a steady flow of water coming out and the water is coming out of the float valve as a trickle. My incoming TDS is a 4, outgoing 0. I'm on a well and have a water softener, neutralizer, and UV light hooked up.

If anyone else is running on a well system, any issues with depleting the well making large quantities of RO?

Where did you get those containers? Haven’t seen them before.

 

[Dunc]

Where did you get those containers? Haven’t seen them before.

From a company in Utah. They are water storage barrels, like for Prepers I think.

 

[ParrotHead310]

BRS has a lot of informative videos on their RODI units and how to deal with different scenarios ie: low water pressure. I'm not on a well but mine runs at 60 psi. When I turn the flush valve on it drops to around 15ish psi. Are you sure your flush valve is closed? BRS recommends 50+ psi through their systems. If your below 50 you will need to purchase a booster pump. The lower your pressure goes the less efficient the ro membrane is at removing stuff. I would check out their YouTube videos

Thanks, looks like I had the flush valve open. I didn't realize that was a flush valve I thought that was to make sure the waste line flowed. So I should flush the system after every RO use?

 

[ParrotHead310]

If your pressure is really that low, then that will slow down production and also means the membrane will not be as efficient, if you are not too bothered about speed and your RO water is coming out at zero then you don’t have to get a booster pump, just means your di may need changing that little bit sooner.
A booster pump will really speed things up tho.

As for your di container not filling up, that’s fine, the way it works is the only way out for the water is to go through the di container as the exit hole is at the top of the container.

When I turned the flush valve off my PSi rose to 45 after I tapped the gauge. Looks like I'm still going to need a booster pump.

 

[KStatefan]

Since you are on a well your water could have high CO2 that will burn thru resin quickly

 

[ParrotHead310]

Where did you get those containers? Haven’t seen them before.

My well water company got them for me they're called brine tanks. I have a smaller one I use for my water softener salt. Seemed to be perfect for the job they're about 45 gal each & only cost me $60 each.

 

[KStatefan]

When I turned the flush valve off my PSi rose to 45 after I tapped the gauge. Looks like I'm still going to need a booster pump.

A booster pump will speed up your production of water and increase your membrane efficiency a couple tenths or so.

 

[ParrotHead310]

Since you are on a well your water could have high CO2 that will burn thru resin quickly

How do you determine what your CO2 levels are?

 

[KStatefan]

How do you determine what your CO2 levels are?

There are test kits are available and you can test with PH meter. I have not had to test but it does seem to come up often here with well water burning thru resin.

 

[Dunc]

Thanks, looks like I had the flush valve open. I didn't realize that was a flush valve I thought that was to make sure the waste line flowed. So I should flush the system after every RO use?

You need to flush the unit for 5 minutes before you make water every time. TDS is concentrated after each use. You’ll burn out your resin filter fast if you don’t.

 

[Mical]

Thanks, looks like I had the flush valve open. I didn't realize that was a flush valve I thought that was to make sure the waste line flowed. So I should flush the system after every RO use?

You need to flush it BEFORE you make RO water. You can do the 5 min run or using your TDS meter, switch to the probe just after membrane and wait until TDS is 5 or less then close the flush valve. (That's my prefered way)

 

[KStatefan]

Flushing the membrane is not how you get rid of TDS creep. You bypass the DI resin for the first few minutes to get rid of the TDS creep that is on the permeate side of the membrane. Flushing removes any build up on the other side of the membrane.

 

[Reef.]

Flushing the membrane is not how you get rid of TDS creep. You bypass the DI resin for the first few minutes to get rid of the TDS creep that is on the permeate side of the membrane. Flushing removes any build up on the other side of the membrane.

Some get through, my TDS is 30 before I flush, I wait till it’s reading 2 before closing the flush valve.