New RO setup

[KStatefan]

Some get through, my TDS is 30 before I flush, I wait till it’s reading 2 before closing the flush valve.

Yes but the flush valve does not remove the TDS creep on the permeate side. Depending on how long it sits inactive but if it sits long enough the TDS will equalize on both side of the membrane. The flush valve is on the feed side of the membrane so the lowest the TDS can get is that of your feed water.

@Buckeye Hydro has a FAQ on his sponsor forum

 

[Reef.]

When I turned the flush valve off my PSi rose to 45 after I tapped the gauge. Looks like I'm still going to need a booster pump.

your pressure does drop when flushing, the pressure when the flush valve is closed is what you need to be concerned with, 45psi is on the reasonable side, my advice still stands, if you are happy with the speed then up to you if you want to spend the extra money, I do recommend one as the time saving for me is worth it, if yours is in the garage/basement and it’s setup to where you can just let it do it’s and it’s not in the way, maybe the time issue is not a concern.

Lower pressure also means your membrane is less efficient, so your membrane could be rated to say 97%, which means it only lets 3% TDS through and your di removes the rest, lower pressure will increase that to say 5% or more depending on the pressure, keep in mind the tap water TDS you start with too, if you start at 50 TDS 3% of that is not much, some have tap water 500 TDS or more, so more of a concern the membrane rejection rate.

 

[ParrotHead310]

Flushing the membrane is not how you get rid of TDS creep. You bypass the DI resin for the first few minutes to get rid of the TDS creep that is on the permeate side of the membrane. Flushing removes any build up on the other side of the membrane.

So to flush am I just switching the flush valve to open and letting it run for 5mins or is there more to it?

 

[ParrotHead310]

Flushing the membrane is not how you get rid of TDS creep. You bypass the DI resin for the first few minutes to get rid of the TDS creep that is on the permeate side of the membrane. Flushing removes any build up on the other side of the membrane.

So to flush am I just switching the flush valve open and letting it run for 5mins or is there more to it?

 

[KStatefan]

So to flush am I just switching the flush valve to open and letting it run for 5mins or is there more to it?

That is how you flush the membrane

 

[ParrotHead310]

That is how you flush the membrane

Am i supposed to flush the other canisters too?

 

[Klyle]

No. Flush for 5 minutes before you make water and you will be fine. I also toss the small amount that collects while the system is flushing

 

[Reef.]

Am i supposed to flush the other canisters too?

when new yes, the membrane needs flushing for 1 hour, the others just need 5 mins, remember when flushing the new filters to remove any filter/membrane and do that come after the filters, as you don’t want to stuff that may get washed of the m going into the others.

 

[ParrotHead310]

your pressure does drop when flushing, the pressure when the flush valve is closed is what you need to be concerned with, 45psi is on the reasonable side, my advice still stands, if you are happy with the speed then up to you if you want to spend the extra money, I do recommend one as the time saving for me is worth it, if yours is in the garage/basement and it’s setup to where you can just let it do it’s and it’s not in the way, maybe the time issue is not a concern.

Lower pressure also means your membrane is less efficient, so your membrane could be rated to say 97%, which means it only lets 3% TDS through and your di removes the rest, lower pressure will increase that to say 5% or more depending on the pressure, keep in mind the tap water TDS you start with too, if you start at 50 TDS 3% of that is not much, some have tap water 500 TDS or more, so more of a concern the membrane rejection rate.

Had it running for most of the day pressure fluctuated from 40-56. It should do for now but I’ll definitely consider adding the booster. My in line water TDS is reading 3. Seems super low. I’m on a well and we have a neutralizer, softener, and uv light so not sure if that’s taking everything out.