I'm currently running a eshopps rs-75 sump under my 50gal reef tank. I was limited to this sump, do to the fact that my cabinet doors openings are very small, and that was the only way to get it under the tank. While the sump does its job, it has no area for a refugium. Tried an algae scrubber, and after squeezing it under there with everything else, I realized that it's just not enough for nutrient export in this heavily stocked tank. Im thinking of getting a trigger sapphire 26 or maybe a synergy reef sump. My stand is built out of 2x4 lumber, and is supported on the left/right sides by (2) 2x4 verticals in each corner, and front/back sides by (1) 2x4. The only way to get a new sump into this cabinet would be to cut out the center 2x4 vertical support on the front, and slide the sump in. Now, I'm not an engineer,but very handy... I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on whether this would cause a structural issue. After the center vertical brace is cut out, the span between the front corner braces would be approx 26"-27". Would this be too big of a gap, or can the 2x4 carry the load? I've included a picture as well. Need some advice before I proceed.
New Sump , Need Help!
- Thread starter AdamH
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Bit of more info....I built the stand myself; it's over built as usual. If I did cut out the front vertical center brace, the tank would be supported by about 5.25" on each end of the front by the existing corner vertical pieces.
leepink23
2500 Club Member
Gotcha, I found in my experience that a scrubber to be more effective in limited spaces and refugium better with large areas, but that’s just my experience.
I hear that. On my end the maintenance is just easier....pulling out a handful of chaeto once in a while as opposed to have to shut down scrubber pump, unhook feed tube, pull screen and clean. Not to mention that once the algae starts growing on the screen, the flow through it changes, which leads to fluctuating water levels in the sump. I have an ato, but this constant change in scrubber flow skews the evaporation rate.
Not to mention the constant splashing/salt creep if the drain is slightly raised, or the bubbling when the drain is beneath the water surface of the sump. I have mine about 1/2 way into the water level, and I get a mixture of bubbles and splashing.
leepink23
2500 Club Member
Gotcha, I have mine in a center chamber so I don’t have these issues, maybe a chaeto reactor could be an option if you can’t remove the center. But hopefully someone can give more information on this! Good luck with it!
Idoc
Getting lazier and lazier with upkeep!
Have you thought about cutting out the side of the stand and sliding in a bigger stump? Then, make a door on the side of the stand to cover the hole?
Bill will I hope you're right. I'm 35 years old and have been building for 20 years. I can guarantee that the stand is well built, and I agree with you that it probably doesnt need it. After I originally setup the system, hindsight kicked in, and I realized that I limited my sump choices drastically by having those center braces. I'm just trying to get some experienced opinions before I order my sump and refugium light. I'm ready to cut that brace, but just nervous as can be; who knows how many hours I've put into keeping these corals.
billwill
Well-Known Member
I literally just went through your same dilemma two weeks ago. I bought a bigger sump to fit under my std 90g, and had to remove my center brace. I sweated and stressed, and created an offset brace to make room for my bigger sump. So after all was said and done after removing temp offset brace, my original brace slipped right back into place and requires the screws to hold it in place. In other words, zero deflection. And my stand is cabinet grade construction that is 1x4 across top there. And I am a mechanical engineer...
Ron Reefman
Lets Go Snorkeling!
Reef Squad
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
Article Contributor
Tampa Bay Reef Keepers
MAC of SW Florida
I had a situation like yours on a longer stand. I had to keep the center brace. But to get a 125g sump/refugium into the stand I did this:
I prepped a new center support so it just fit with a little persuasion from a rubber maillot. Then I used a car floor jack to support where the old brace was coming out. Then I cut out the old center brace. moved the sump in and then used the floor jack for temporary support. I then tapped the new center support into place which was easy with the weight of the tank supported by the jack. After the new center support was in place I let the jack down. The center support was solidly in place and I didn't even bother to screw it in place as it was so solid and I might want to remove it again someday!
I prepped a new center support so it just fit with a little persuasion from a rubber maillot. Then I used a car floor jack to support where the old brace was coming out. Then I cut out the old center brace. moved the sump in and then used the floor jack for temporary support. I then tapped the new center support into place which was easy with the weight of the tank supported by the jack. After the new center support was in place I let the jack down. The center support was solidly in place and I didn't even bother to screw it in place as it was so solid and I might want to remove it again someday!
