New tank New iLLness

[Reef Racket]

@4FordFamily does this look like ich to you?

 

[Sebastiancrab]

You don't ever want to treat your DT with copper because it will usually remain even when you try to get it all and affect your corals in the future.

If the one spot stays there and no others appear it may be a fluke. You could do a RODI (no salt) 5 minute bath to see if it throws it off. Check out Bulk Reef Supply videos for treatment instructions.

 

[Sebastiancrab]

In the future, the rule of thumb is to go slow on adding your fish. This is to allow your biomedia time to build up to the load required. Read Ron Reefman's articles here.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Im thinking lymphocystis and would focus on water quality followed by diet. What is your Ammonia-ph-salinity -nitrate and are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet?
What diet are you giving them.
What test kit(s) are oyu using?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Also, the first picture of the fowleri tang is the worst case by far! Some tangs are showing no signs at all and the wrasses in the tank look absolutely fine. So confused here..

Treat tank with Copper ONLY if tank will be fish only hence the reason for a hospital/quarantine tank

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

And… it’s Back!!

It seems I dealing with more than one issue here. The first photo looks like it may be ICH however, that poor tang has been getting picked on by my clown tang so I’m thinking a lot of those spots could be nips. Some spots are much larger than most ich as you can see in the moorish idol. It almost looks like Lymph but I know that is a “secondary” condition and may not be the primary issue.
The yellow tang in the second photo looks to have some kind of bacterial infection which I think is the primary issue here as you can see the white masses on fins and tails of ever fish showing any kind of signs or symptoms.
Initially I was treating the tank for flukes so I treated as stated above!
The black spots on the Naso tang were much worse before I treated with Prazi and Metro. I also began treating with Kanaplex which also seemed to help the tank as a whole.
@Jay Hemdal im Having the hardest time trying to pinpoint this and being a 210 gallon tank with many fish, catching and QT is not an option for me. I only have a few corals so I’m prepared to treat the entire DT however possible with whatever is needed. Suggestions or thoughts?
Is @Humblefish still around? Would love some ideas for a treatment that will not destroy my live rock and sand like copper….

Yes - there are multiple issues going on here. The Moorish has Lymphocystis (they often get that). The first picture is probably ich. The other issues may be assorted bumps and dings, plus possibly flukes. As I mentioned before, hyposalinity may be your best options since you don't want to copper your DT.

How does the powder blue look though? Few tanks can have a PBT and ich at the same time without the tang showing spots(grin).

Jay

 

[Reef Racket]

Yes - there are multiple issues going on here. The Moorish has Lymphocystis (they often get that). The first picture is probably ich. The other issues may be assorted bumps and dings, plus possibly flukes. As I mentioned before, hyposalinity may be your best options since you don't want to copper your DT.

How does the powder blue look though? Few tanks can have a PBT and ich at the same time without the tang showing spots(grin).

Jay

That’s the thing… PBT looks fine! Powder brown is fine, and all the wrasse show no signs at all… after the the doses of General cure everything looked great and then when I got back from vacation this is was I come home to. My guess is it needed another round. But, I’m thinking I’ll move corals to old tank, remove rock and keep sand, then treat the whole tank with copper? @Jay Hemdal would you say that is my best bet? If it’s not ich maybe I should try another few rounds of Prazi and kanna?

 

[Kaboobie]

Why are you going to copper rather than hyposalinity? Just gradually reduce the salinity by replacing it with fresh water. This can treat ich and flukes. you would need to remove the inverts and corals before doing this as well. As I understand it you need to maintain 1.009 to 1.011 sg for a period of 30 days in order to eliminate the ich from the system in this way. apparently, something like 5 days will wholly irradicate flukes at all life stages but that could be incorrect.

 

[Jay Hemdal Verified Community Expert]

That’s the thing… PBT looks fine! Powder brown is fine, and all the wrasse show no signs at all… after the the doses of General cure everything looked great and then when I got back from vacation this is was I come home to. My guess is it needed another round. But, I’m thinking I’ll move corals to old tank, remove rock and keep sand, then treat the whole tank with copper? @Jay Hemdal would you say that is my best bet? If it’s not ich maybe I should try another few rounds of Prazi and kanna?

Hypo will ensure you don't have any copper residue in the tank, and will treat ich as well as flukes. It is your best bet I think.

Jay

 

[Reef Racket]

Why are you going to copper rather than hyposalinity? Just gradually reduce the salinity by replacing it with fresh water. This can treat ich and flukes. you would need to remove the inverts and corals before doing this as well. As I understand it you need to maintain 1.009 to 1.011 sg for a period of 30 days in order to eliminate the ich from the system in this way. apparently, something like 5 days will wholly irradicate flukes at all life stages but that could be incorrect.

Hypo will ensure you don't have any copper residue in the tank, and will treat ich as well as flukes. It is your best bet I think.

Jay

Thanks guys! Hypo it is! I’ll start lowering salinity today…. I appreciate all the help! I jumped to copper just because I’ve read so many mixed messages about hypo but it does sound like my safest and most effective option.