That not enough I think. Those are 90W each. You should shoot for 5W per gallon, and run them at 80% (3-4W) for longivity and consistency. For your tank thats 80x5 = 400 Watts, or 5 AI hydra. What about flow?
Total system volume is 112 gallon running a Various 6 return pump split via manifold into 2 Vertex reactors, 1 for nitrate pellets and the other with Rowaphos. My skimmer is a Reef Octopus elite INT 150 powered by a Varios 2 pump. In the display tank, I have 2 MP40s on either side and the AI 26 lights. I tested my water just a moment ago and have the following parameters;You mentioned your tank is 5 months old.
I think pH is least of your problem. Share as much info as possible about your tank. Tank parameters, equipment details, chores, livestock, major past events. This will give us some context and then we can methodically suggest you what needs to be checked next, or corrected next. pH is really not on in that lest. Stability, flow, light , chemistry (Ca, Alk) all comes way before pH. Given you have some corals already, i think you need to maintain stable water chemistry (20% water change is way too much). But, lets first understand the current state of things
Your params are not bad. pG 7.4 can be the lowest on your pH cycle, even if its correct (which I doubt). If possible take a pH reading 12 or 8 hours later. Lets see what others say,
I have tested towards the end of the photoperiod, as well as 2 AM local time and have not seen much of a difference, but I have also been told not to try and chase PH.
My LFS water is usually in the 8.5-8.8 range, using Red Sea blue bucket. I have been using the B Ionic magnesium. I am going to follow rerfwiser's suggestion and just let the tank do it's thing and reduce the frequency of the water changes and monitor absorbtion rate of the alkalinity. Does that sound like a good action plan for now?
Just tested the top off water and got 0.1 dkh on my Hanna checker. Is it safe to assume that +/- .1 is an acceptable range for error?
No offense at all, I need all the help I can get. I have been told numerous times that stability is key, but I simply cannot fathom why the alkalinity increases without dosing. I have basically given up on the PH numbers in the hopes that once calcium, magnesium and alkalinity begin getting absorbed, the PH will follow. Someone earlier in the thread suggested doing water changes every other week, instead of the weekly changes I have been doing.
I agree....until tank ages well, every other week.
Lol, I certainly do not have a green thumb (I can kill fake plants!). It is my OCD to want to make things perfect, but it is safe to say I am a bit over my head, so please keep sharing suggestions and experience!
Lol.
That is so very true, great analogy!
