New tank

Ya I wouldnt use the protein skimmer just yet. In your overflow you can get a media basket to hold some stuff like : carbon bags, poly filter, anything from seachem. You probably have some phospate from using tap water which may cause undesireable algae blooms.
 
I won't say never but most of us found out the hard way never to use tap water. An ro filter runs one to two hundred dollars and you will have far fewer problems with algae and other issues with the tank. Although it was once the way it was done most of us no longer feel comfortable tormenting fish to run in a tank as dumping some shrimp or fish food in will do the same thing as putting fish in the tank and actually work faster. It's a good idea to soak the rock in ro water and then test it for phosphates after a week or so. Since you have the tank up just test the tank water for phosphates. After all the diatoms have gone and you're beginning to see a little green growing on the gravel you can probably add a fish or two at a time. If your water hasn't any phophates or silicates you may not see any green on the gravel. Just pushing my memory back to setting up a tank with tap water. With the set up you have I'd wait a minimum of six weeks before adding any fish while adding fish food or other source to feed the tank bacteria. With no food it can starve leaving you back at square one. Meanwhile monitor the water. Good luck.
 
if it is a fowlr system tap is fine.

i only dosed ammonia to 3 ppm with windex and then let it go til i saw nitrate. i didnt even try to keep bacteria alive.

id only do wc if something is off the charts high
 
Russ unless you're sure of the tap water I wouldn't chance it. Water districts have a habit of adding ingredients that can wipe out a tank with one water change. There's probably many hobbyists on here that have had that happen to them. An ro filter is cheap insurance and it won't promote the growth of algae in the tank.
 
Russ unless you're sure of the tap water I wouldn't chance it. Water districts have a habit of adding ingredients that can wipe out a tank with one water change. There's probably many hobbyists on here that have had that happen to them. An ro filter is cheap insurance and it won't promote the growth of algae in the tank.

quite right harold. my tap is 55 tds and ive yet to have any ill effects.

i had a 220 that was perfectly fine for lps and softies so i am very confident in my water supply.

those that have 100+ tds, their mileage would vary. however.... ive yet to see fish or inverts dying due to tap.

also rodi wasnt as easily available until recently so i wonder how people did reefs before it. JS!

disclaimer:
im in georgia and do not have your water parameters or experience additions of floride or whatever else that could kill off livestock.

hth
 
Russ I've had many tanks before ro filters were popular and yes untreated tap water is usually safe. Unfortunately many water districts suddenly decide to change their treatment additives and don't bother to warn their customers. The normal phosphates, lead, arsenic, etc. are usually tolerated by the fish.
 
You're confusing tds with toxicity. Although one may indicate the other it's not a measure of how toxic the water is. It depends on what is actually dissolved in the water not necessarily how much.
 
Are you adding any kalk water? Mine goes in my ato top off water plus I add reef builder or reef advantage calcium daily to the sump. My ph remains in the low 8's. There are lots of supplements out there to help raise ph. Adding more oxygen to the room may have some positive effect if your home is sealed up tightly. Reverse lighted refusium may also help.
 
I see new tank syndrome written all over this one. Patience is key step one. Step two, Less is more in this game. Everyone is new to the hobby at first and always learning, myself included. We all want to try gimmics and supplements like some mad scientist. Ive had tanks from 10-300 over 40 years and still have to dial it down. There is so much misinformation out there, relax. It can quickly turn from Dr Jekell to Mr Hyde overnight. Im seeing everything from windex to cocktail shrimp. If you want your tank to crash midway after sinking several hundreds to thousands of dollars then it is your dime. Im not saying it cant work, just that so much can go wrong when circumventing mother nature.

Six weeks is the time frame. Sometimes it doesnt take as long but there is nothing wrong with riding it out. The bacterial colony needs to grow, establish, and mature to support life with minimal hassle.

Introducing bait fish (Damsels) works, but there are other methods. Pure ammonia (not windex) added daily has the same affect and doesnt foul the water. If you use any tap water make sure you condition it to prepare it for success. Amquel or Prime can help prepare tap water. You may have to deal with Phosphates later in the game but for now it will work. When testing you should see the natural progression of elevated ammonia, nitrites, and finally nitrates indicative of a bacterial colony in the beginning phases of colonizing. Note I said beginning. Maturity is the time you allow for the colony to handle the cyclical nature of a salt water tank and will insure your success when you go and sink your hard earned cash in some high dollar corals. After your inital cycle Phosphates should be tested and controlled before the green scourge takes up residence. Consistency is the third step in this process. Keeping a log helps stay on top of your husbandry.

There are logical methods all over the internet, so sink some time in research before you throw the kitchen sink at it. It will make your venture successful and you a happier hobbyist. All the best!!!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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