New Tanks Build
- Thread starter H@rry
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OP
OP
H@rry
Troll
Available space. It was originally 3 6 foot tanks but we didn't have enough wall space to go in a straight line. Then I thought about the horseshoe arrangement but that would extend too far into the room to allow for access to the back area. M@ry Ruth came up with the idea of the 4 foot tank on one side that would allow the 6 foot tank on the side to go all the way to the wall.
Tomoko Schum
Valuable Member
Looking really great, H@rry!
I have not posted here, but I have been following this thread since I also ordered a tank and bookcases (a 180 built into a large wall unit?) from Ocea. I am curious to see how the transfer of corals into the new tanks work out. I have been told a few times from various people that SPS's should not be introduced into new tanks. I would rather not wait until the new tank matures (6 months or more?). What's your thought on transfering SPS's?
Tomoko
I have not posted here, but I have been following this thread since I also ordered a tank and bookcases (a 180 built into a large wall unit?) from Ocea. I am curious to see how the transfer of corals into the new tanks work out. I have been told a few times from various people that SPS's should not be introduced into new tanks. I would rather not wait until the new tank matures (6 months or more?). What's your thought on transfering SPS's?
Tomoko
OP
OP
H@rry
Troll
I'm not sure whether what I'm doing could really be defined as "new tanks". I got about 250-300 pounds of sand from established tanks and I'm moving the contents of the old 225 (sand, rock, and corals) to the new tanks. The sand has been sitting for a few weeks in buckets and smells kinda "funky" so I'll probably have some kind of cycle. It will take me a couple of weeks to make enough water to fill them. During that time I'll be running the skimmer. When they are filled and I'm satisfied with the plumbing I'll make the cut-over. I'm sure I'll probably lose some of the corals but I don't really have a choice.
Tomoko Schum
Valuable Member
Thanks, H@rry. I guess I will have to do the same. I will take down my 120 and move all my rocks, sand, and livestock to the new tank. I will have more than enough time to debug plumbing system and cycle the new tank before I take down my 120.
Tomoko
Tomoko
OP
OP
H@rry
Troll
I don't know if he'll do that or not. He stays pretty busy as it is. Give him a call and ask though.
I had been figuring on canopy height based on the bottom of the pull chain for the light/ceiling fan. I had considered asking for the canopy to be an inch higher for access under the lights. I completely forgot about the clearance for the fan when the door was opened. As it is I have 1 1/8 inch clearance below the blades.
TritonsGarden
Coral Farmer Wannabe
can't wait to come and see the new setup..... You and Mary Ruth are going to host sometime soon right? I am courious does this stick out into the room so you have to walk around it? very cool setup thought I like it!!!!
OP
OP
H@rry
Troll
These tanks and the frag tanks occupy about 75% of the sun room. We also have our computers in the other side of the room. This is definitely a "walk around" arrangement. We may try to host a meeting in the summer, depends on how all this goes and several other things.
I don't know if he'll do that or not. He stays pretty busy as it is. Give him a call and ask though.
I had been figuring on canopy height based on the bottom of the pull chain for the light/ceiling fan. I had considered asking for the canopy to be an inch higher for access under the lights. I completely forgot about the clearance for the fan when the door was opened. As it is I have 1 1/8 inch clearance below the blades.
If your concerned with the clearance You could always replace the fan with one that doesn't hang down as far. They make fans without the pole that mount directly on the ceiling.
OP
OP
H@rry
Troll
Will;
The bulkheads they sent were not threaded on both ends and I didn't want to glue anything permanently in them so they are sending me threaded ones. I expect them in today. After I get them installed I'll start trying to figure out the plumbing. If you're "in the neighborhood" I'd like for you to look it over and give me your expert advice.
The bulkheads they sent were not threaded on both ends and I didn't want to glue anything permanently in them so they are sending me threaded ones. I expect them in today. After I get them installed I'll start trying to figure out the plumbing. If you're "in the neighborhood" I'd like for you to look it over and give me your expert advice.
OP
OP
H@rry
Troll
Plumbing? You want to see plumbing? What have I been doing for the last several days? I will say that I have not been to Lowe's more than twice in any one day. I just finished the plumbing today. I have seen a drip-drip in a couple of places that I'll "tighten up" tomorrow. I don't have enough water in the tanks yet to get to the overflows so I can't really say how that will go but I don't see a whole lot of problems with that. Maybe tomorrow or the next day I'll have enough water to get the sump "sumping". I've been pouring 5 gallons in the end compartment of the sump and then turning the pump on. That lasts less than 10 seconds until it runs dry. Here's some pics. You can't blame any of this on Will. I did it all myself.
Tomoko Schum
Valuable Member
Looking great, H@rry!! I may have to call upon you and Will to help me design my plumbing for my new 180. I have melted the lower parts of my slip type bulkheads once trying to glue PVC pipes to them. I replaced the bulkheads with treaded type bulkheads. Is a slip-fitted bulkhead better than a threaded type or is it just a preference thing?
Tomoko
Tomoko
TritonsGarden
Coral Farmer Wannabe
Do you have all the PVC glue off your hands yet? I even had glue in my hair one day. I just hope I got more on the pipe then I did on me.
Jack
Jack
OP
OP
H@rry
Troll
I think slip bulkheads are a little cheaper than threaded ones. That's why some people use them. They work fine but you have to get it right the first time. Once you glue it down with a fitting on it you can't get the nut back off on the back side. If I had to use one I'd glue a short piece of pipe in and use a compression union so I could take it off if I needed to. I don't like to make any of my plumbing permanent. Every bit of mine can be disassembled.
OP
OP
H@rry
Troll
RectoRseal
Jack - I don't have any glue left on me but the edges of my fingernails are still purple from the primer.
I have always been a proponent of teflon tape on pipe joints and that is what I used for this project. I had a few drip-drip leaks and I used RectoRseal pipe dope on those joints. None of the joints leaked a drop since. It seems like you can turn the fittings another 1 to 1.5 turns. It not only seals but it lubricates the threads I guess. I got it at Lowe's. (I've been to Lowe's twice today)
Jack - I don't have any glue left on me but the edges of my fingernails are still purple from the primer.
I have always been a proponent of teflon tape on pipe joints and that is what I used for this project. I had a few drip-drip leaks and I used RectoRseal pipe dope on those joints. None of the joints leaked a drop since. It seems like you can turn the fittings another 1 to 1.5 turns. It not only seals but it lubricates the threads I guess. I got it at Lowe's. (I've been to Lowe's twice today)
