New to Copperband Butterfly

[jy808]

Bought some live clams (pipi's is a type of clam we call in Australia) just now. Tied it to one of the live rock.

Probably got scared at first with my hand in there. But slowly getting curious about this thing.

Still not biting. Gosh!!!! How long should i leave that clam in there before it really affects the water?

 

[jy808]

Other than the live black worms I am all out of options. This little bugger just will not eat.

I am afraid that there aren't enough live rocks in the QT. I am very tempted to place it right into the DT after 3 days in QT, as my DT have plenty of rocks and water parameters are so much better. But I know I shouldn't!

 

[ReefHog]

I’ve left clam in for six to 8 hours. Have you tried live brine shrimp? They will stay alive for days with no meds in the tank.

 

[jy808]

I’ve left clam in for six to 8 hours. Have you tried live brine shrimp? They will stay alive for days with no meds in the tank.

Have yet to try any live worms or brine shrimp yet. I don't know any LFS that stock them. Have only tried frozen, but that was while it had flukes or while it was heavily dosed in medication.

It is freely swimming and very curious, so have yet to try frozen brine shrimp while it is actively curious around the tank.

I hesitant to keep throwing food in the tank, with fear that it will affect the water parameters.

I left Masstick in there overnight and was untouched, and had to syphon it out. This fish is giving more grief than my mrs.

 

[ReefHog]

I’m guessing he wasn’t eating at the store. Just keep at it. I use air line tubing zip tied to a bbq skewer to siphon out left over food from tank bottom. That way you don’t waste too much water. Not sure what type filtration you have. Make sure you have surface agitation with hob or sponge filter.

 

[Jfinn]

Other than the live black worms I am all out of options. This little bugger just will not eat.

I am afraid that there aren't enough live rocks in the QT. I am very tempted to place it right into the DT after 3 days in QT, as my DT have plenty of rocks and water parameters are so much better. But I know I shouldn't!

Probably get hammered for this but I’ve lost more fish in QT then in my DT and once my local reef club suggested by consensus the same I quit QT entirely.

For the very reasons you listed- water volume/quality, filtration, stability, live rock, etc - the display tank is less stressful on sensitive fish like CBB.

So...we put out CBB in about a year ago - directly into DT. There were only peaceful fish at the time, but he’s a model citizen after some finicky eating behavior in the first 4-6 weeks. He’s settled in to the rhythm of the tank now and eats well, both at feeding and off the live rock which he constantly inspects for any tidbits. He also dealt with some thrashing (not sure if flukes or ich) but the stability I think with heavy feeding made the difference. He also developed lymphocystis (sp?) due to stress early and recovered a bit later as that tends to take a while to fall off.

Live black worms, live brine, and frozen brine have been his fav since.

good luck!

 

[jy808]

So it's day 5 in the QT. Happily swimming around but still unsure if it has eaten. Have see it actually go for a brine shrimp, in its mount then spit it back out. I guess that's a better sign and will have to keep trying.

Likes the smell of Masstick and always goes towards it but refuses to bite!

Hope it survives

 

[Forshurley]

Following, I need a cooper-band and want to learn as much as possible before I pull the trigger.

 

[piranhaman00]

I have two in a 29 QT going on 12 days, 8 at therapeutic copper. They are both eating mysis shrimp. I am noticing a hunger strike from one now though like someone mentioned. He just will randomly stop eating mysis. Also like someone mentioned. I’m feeding 5 small meals a day. Weekend are easier but during the week doing 4 meals after 3pm lol.

Working so far, good luck! Mine also has the two small dots on his tail that are not ich.

 

[jy808]

I have two in a 29 QT going on 12 days, 8 at therapeutic copper. They are both eating mysis shrimp. I am noticing a hunger strike from one now though like someone mentioned. He just will randomly stop eating mysis. Also like someone mentioned. I’m feeding 5 small meals a day. Weekend are easier but during the week doing 4 meals after 3pm lol.

Working so far, good luck! Mine also has the two small dots on his tail that are not ich.

How long did you have it in the QT till they ate? Did you also have alot of live rocks there?

I'm just going to have to keep trying and trying.

 

[jy808]

I think the flukes are gone.

Once it starts to eat I will start some copper treatment to ensure no ich is present. How sensitive are CBB to copper treatment?

 

[piranhaman00]

How long did you have it in the QT till they ate? Did you also have alot of live rocks there?

I'm just going to have to keep trying and trying.

I watched them both eat at LFS and then they ate the next day in my QT. They were eating black worms but quickly started on mysis. Like I mentioned though, one stopped eating mysis so I caved this morning and offered black worms and they both went nuts.

I use copper first, so no rock in the tank, only pvc. They will be transfered to the next qt tank in a few days here, which contains live rock for them.

I think the flukes are gone.

Once it starts to eat I will start some copper treatment to ensure no ich is present. How sensitive are CBB to copper treatment?

I brought mine up to 2.0 ppm in 3 doses over two days. They had no reaction and continued to eat great.

 

[dwest]

I think the flukes are gone.

Once it starts to eat I will start some copper treatment to ensure no ich is present. How sensitive are CBB to copper treatment?

I would use chelated copper, not ionic.

Fish and Treatment Guidelines (with chart)

Fish and Treatment Guidelines (with chart) The following chart is a quick reference guide on what QT protocol should be used according to which type of fish you are running through QT. It will give you an idea of which methods are generally safest with certain species but is not meant to be...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[jstephens24]

best of luck. hopefully you see him eat. such an awesome looking fish

 

[bblumberg]

I can't count how many apparently healthy copperbands I lost in quarantine, even medication-free quarantine, irrespective of the type of food I gave them. About 8 months ago, I bought 2 CBBs from the same tank at a LFS (actually a wholesaler who also sells to public). Following Paul B's recommendation and also that of the seller , I put one CBB directly into my display tank. As an experiment, I put the other into the quarantine tank (10g with well-conditioned sponge filter and live rock). Along with the CBB in quarantine, I put 3 flame cardinals and a cleaner wrasse.

The CBB in the display tank hid for a few days, but then came out and is now an aggressive eater and model citizen. Sadly, the CBB in quarantine died, despite eating. The other fish did fine. When I set up a 40g frag tank about 4 months ago, I got another small CBB and put it directly in the tank. Same result - it is healthy, happy and eating well... Perhaps not the perfect experimental design, but the results are pretty clear...

 

[Paul B]

Well, What do you think about that!

 

[NanoDJS]

I would never QT a CB , +1 to all those who agree , get a cleaner shrimp or wrasse , the stress of QT will do in even a healthy CB imho. They are some of the smartest fish and will never forget it, they catch them with cyanide typically and they have been through the ringer already. my 2c

 

[ReefHog]

Definitely more than one way to skin a cat Mine went on various hunger strikes throughout but did just fine in quarantine. I did quarantine him with another fish. Maybe that helped him feel more normal. Best thing you can do which ever way you go is to make sure the fish is eating Before you buy it.

 

[piranhaman00]

I can't count how many apparently healthy copperbands I lost in quarantine, even medication-free quarantine, irrespective of the type of food I gave them. About 8 months ago, I bought 2 CBBs from the same tank at a LFS (actually a wholesaler who also sells to public). Following Paul B's recommendation and also that of the seller , I put one CBB directly into my display tank. As an experiment, I put the other into the quarantine tank (10g with well-conditioned sponge filter and live rock). Along with the CBB in quarantine, I put 3 flame cardinals and a cleaner wrasse.

The CBB in the display tank hid for a few days, but then came out and is now an aggressive eater and model citizen. Sadly, the CBB in quarantine died, despite eating. The other fish did fine. When I set up a 40g frag tank about 4 months ago, I got another small CBB and put it directly in the tank. Same result - it is healthy, happy and eating well... Perhaps not the perfect experimental design, but the results are pretty clear...

Well, What do you think about that!

Definitely a hard fish to QT but I would be hesitant to push OP to just toss the fish into his DT.

 

[User1]

Not going to play in the QT or no QT sand bed however if you are doing fresh water dips or baths (yes, they are different) please check out Bob Fenner's "Dips/Baths, A Useful Protocol for Excluding Many External Fish Parasites" article on Wet Web Media. Specifically pay attention to Methylene blue. Takes freshwater dips to a whole new level for both fish and hobbyist by reducing stress to both parties

If I was to put another CBB into my display my first priority would be to find one locally so I can visually inspect. If not local then via online source with similar access (email photos). Check weather if shipping and plan accordingly then purchase. Next day/morning prep 2 x RO/DI water buckets, match ph, add Methylene blue to 1, room temp, equalize CBB, timer, and bath begins. During bath checking CBB frequently through the first 15 minutes. If fish is doing well decide if I want to run to 30 minute bath or stop at 15. Once dip/bath is done using a gloved hand gently remove CBB and rinse in 2nd RO/DI bucket and then place into display with lights out.

TL;DR: To quote Mr. Fenner: "Methylene blue is a good oxygenating dye, sort of like our blood's hemoglobin, aiding in keeping oxygen concentration high".