Nitrate (12ppm) and Dosing help.

[miyags]

Your tangs need more veggies.

 

[austinl]

Your tangs need more veggies.

They get Nori every two days as well.

 

[austinl]

The word Probiotic in layman term stands for good bacteria. So, bio s helps you to get the cycle going and process the ammonia to NO3 via NO2. But then you need to export NO3 out either through water changes or by breaking it down to N2 gas which will released back in the environment. So, without adding any denitrification bacteria your NO3 will stay high. Probio s fixes NO3 to skimmable material along with PO4 and in this way it reduces PO4 and NO3 from the system.

So your recommendation is to add Pro Bio S to deal with the high NO3 and or the cloudy water?

As stated originally I don't have an issue with PO4 and I always do weekly water changes of 20%.

My concern and the reason I went with this method was to avoid the daily additives (other than component) that were manually done other than during the start up. My goal was to have a schedule similar to what I had orginally posted where any additives were set apart and easy to follow for anyone to do.

 

[Anirban]

Yes, as you can not control NO3 by just doing waterchange so add either Pro bioS or other way of denitrification. You also need to add NP PRO. Once the system stabilise you can dose alternatively if you wish.

 

[austinl]

Yes, as you can not control NO3 by just doing waterchange so add either Pro bioS or other way of denitrification. You also need to add NP PRO. Once the system stabilise you can dose alternatively if you wish.

Ok so if I am to start some form of carbon dosing whether it's Pro Bio/NP Pro, should I wait for the water to clear up? I believe you said to stop carbon dosing due to cloudy water or did I misunderstand that part?

 

[Anirban]

Ok so if I am to start some form of carbon dosing whether it's Pro Bio/NP Pro, should I wait for the water to clear up? I believe you said to stop carbon dosing due to cloudy water or did I misunderstand that part?

Yeah, wait for the water to clear up.

 

[kevlow]

My concern and the reason I went with this method was to avoid the daily additives (other than component) that were manually done other than during the start up. My goal was to have a schedule similar to what I had orginally posted where any additives were set apart and easy to follow for anyone to do.

I share the same desire to keep it all as simple as possible. I also believe that the less I am dosing, then the less variables I have to track if something goes wrong.
For quite a while I have only dosed Comp123, and NP Pro with Pro Bio S. This alone made my tank very stable with both nutrients and elements. It has been as easy and stable as this hobby can be. Only now I am considering giving the vitamins a try, but I am prepared and would be content to stay with this easy AF program indefinitely.

 

[Anirban]

I share the same desire to keep it all as simple as possible. I also believe that the less I am dosing, then the less variables I have to track if something goes wrong.
For quite a while I have only dosed Comp123, and NP Pro with Pro Bio S. This alone made my tank very stable with both nutrients and elements. It has been as easy and stable as this hobby can be. Only now I am considering giving the vitamins a try, but I am prepared and would be content to stay with this easy AF program indefinitely.

Me too, I dose components, pro bio s and np pro. I feed my fish well and once in a while I dose vitamin

 

[JamesP]

I use Microbacter7 as my bacteria source as it is cheap, easily available, and can sit at room temp in a dosing vessel for a very long time.

 

[austinl]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Before I go out and get any further products, I want to ensure im picking the right ones for how I would like to manage the tank.

I would like to limit the daily dosing required especially seeing as this is a new tank. I understand that it may be needed down the road if I'm going to attempt running the system like a ULNS.

Which option would be best given the product I already have (see first post)

Would I be better adding Zeo (smaller amount) to my reactor with the AF Carbon and Phos Minus.

Or

Dose Pro Bio S and NP Pro and if possible have this as a bi weekly dose? Whether at the start or down the line.

As stated my maintenance is pretty struck and im about to bring a daily water change online as well.

Thanks again for the help and support.

 

[Anirban]

Thanks for the replies everyone.

Before I go out and get any further products, I want to ensure im picking the right ones for how I would like to manage the tank.

I would like to limit the daily dosing required especially seeing as this is a new tank. I understand that it may be needed down the road if I'm going to attempt running the system like a ULNS.

Which option would be best given the product I already have (see first post)

Would I be better adding Zeo (smaller amount) to my reactor with the AF Carbon and Phos Minus.

Or

Dose Pro Bio S and NP Pro and if possible have this as a bi weekly dose? Whether at the start or down the line.

As stated my maintenance is pretty struck and im about to bring a daily water change online as well.

Thanks again for the help and support.

I would say the ideal thing to do will be Pro bio S and NP Pro with some GFO or Phos minus. You dont need zeo right now.

 

[austinl]

I would say the ideal thing to do will be Pro bio S and NP Pro with some GFO or Phos minus. You dont need zeo right now.

Ok so I have been running Pro bio S and NP pro now for almost a month along with my weekly water change and AF carbon and AF Phos minus.

I have seen no change in my Nitrate levels.
My feeding is consistent and constant of Reef Frenzy/Herb Frenzy and the odd pellet through the day and Nori every two days.

Nitrate has stayed at 12-16ppm as measured by two different Red Sea pro kits.

Other params below

Ph 8.1-8.3
Alk 7.8 RSP KIT
Calc 430 RSP KIT
Mag 1300 RSP KIT
PO4 0.0 Hanna

All LPS is growing well and new head on Acans and Duncan's. Torch looks like it will split soon.

SPS two small colonies have been lost, most montis are doing well except one pink that's looking faded.

The remaining SPS colonies and frags are not as colourful and look like they are browning especially my yellow and blue small colony.

Your thoughts?

 

[Anirban]

How you measure PO4?
Looks like you are limited by PO4.

 

[austinl]

How you measure PO4?
Looks like you are limited by PO4.

I use a Hanna checker for PO4

 

[Anirban]

WHICH ONE?

 

[austinl]

Regular not the ultra low

 

[Anirban]

Ok, you are limited by PO4 and thats why the NO3 does not come down. Dose the Pro bio s and NP pro half the current dose.

 

[austinl]

My PO4 has been zero since the start Anirban....it's why i originally asked if NP pro and bio S was the right path

 

[Anirban]

They are still good bUT u still need some po4 to reduce the no3. The no3 can not be converted unless there are some po4

 

[austinl]

Ok so if I had no PO4 before dosing NP Pro and Pro Bio S, should i even bother to keep dosing it? Or should i remove the Phos Minus and see if i get any PO4 readings.