Hey guys I haven't had my aquarium very long but my nitrates have been on the higher side I was wondering what can I do to lower and after that control them and keep them low. Also it seems like In my top tank there is like a film along the surface. I'm new and all I have is a filter sock live rock and fine gravel in my sump I'm not sure how much more filtration I would need any help is greatly appreciated thanks!
Nitrate levels
- Thread starter Austin R
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Do you have a power head in the tank to keep water moving at the surface or let the return outlet just below water level so top surface water ripples. You want the water at top of tank to move so you get gas exchange.
reefs+waves
Active Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2017
- Messages
- 168
- Reaction score
- 53
The nitrates are probably just a normal part of your cycle because your live rock already converted the ammonia into nitrate
You can also carbon dose with Vodka. This will drop Nitrate and phosphate. A Protein skimmer is probably one of the most important filters to have if you don't already have one. This will help drop Nitrate by removing wast. If you don't have one yet that would be my next purchase and get one rated twice the size of your tank. Than I would get a carbon reactor you can put carbon in your filter sock for now but a reactor is better also would get GFO reactor. You can get a dull reactor from Balk Reef supply for about $100 with pump.
What are your nitrate levels? SPS need lower levels of nitrate but LPS will tolerate higher levels like 10 to 20 ppm. I wouldn't let them go any higher than 20 ppm. Just depends on the type of coral you planning on keeping. Softies tolerate higher nitrate also.
You could probably move the sand and rock from your sump to the display tank and get same results as if it was in the sump. Than you could put algae in your sump. You will need another light to grow out the algae but only need a Power Compact bulb from hardware store. Just make sure it has a k rating of 6500. The algae will consume the nitrate and if you run the algae light at night it will also help stabilize your PH.
What's your nitrate testing at? "High" means a lot of things to a lot of people. Also have you done any more water changes after your system was established? I would start back up with water changes before doing anything like carbon dosing. The nitrogen cycle is not over once you get it established, if you aren't exporting excess nutrients i.e nitrogen phosphate, then they will just accumulate.
bblumberg
Well-Known Member
A protein skimmer will be helpful for long term stability of your tank. Be aware that while canister filters do a good job of removing particulates and converting ammonia to nitrate, most of the types of media in them will generate nitrate as the end product of the nitrogen cycle. You will want to replace the biomedia in this filter over time with Siporax which will eventually (3+ months) aid in converting the nitrate to nitrogen gas and then out of your aquarium. Live rock will do the same.
I would wait some time on the anemone - they do best in a well-established tank.
Patience is the key to successful reefing.
Bruce
I would wait some time on the anemone - they do best in a well-established tank.
Patience is the key to successful reefing.
Bruce
I'd start up on water changes again, while vacuuming the top half of your sand bed.
bblumberg
Well-Known Member
Protein skimmer depends on your budget. There are many good brands. I have a Lifereef (love it) on my 75g, a Tunze 9010 on my 55g live rock holding tank (don't like it much), a Tunze 9001 on my nano (like it well enough), a Tunze 9002 (out of service since it didn't fit the nano well), an Aquamaxx ConeS CO-2 in my new 150g (it's ok, but rather flimsily made), and an AquaC EV-120 which I originally bought with my 75g (dislike it intensely and only used for 2 weeks).
My favorite of the group is the Lifereef because I can upgrade it by simply adding a more powerful pump, it is quiet and does a good job skimming with very little fuss. It is
I am sure lots of people will chime in with their favorites, nearly all of which will be good enough. Don't skimp, though or you may end up buying another one before long.
Since you are using a filter sock, I'd fill your Fluval entirely with Siporax (take the time to stack it up for maximum flow) and let the sock do your water polishing while the Fluval supplements your live rock for biofiltration.
Bruce
terri_ann
Well-Known Member
LifeReef skimmers are good but expensive. I had one for years. For the function and the cost, Reef Octopus are really good. Good advice given above. A sandbed in the sump doesn't do anything IMO unless it is a deep sandbed. I personally don't like deeps and beds either. Some use them but most go 1-3" or no sandbed in the tank. Using a skimmer, good water surface agitation, running gac and gfo, not overfeeding and going slow are most helpful. I'd recommend not buying expensive corals, fish, inverts until you are seasoned and the tank has been stable for months....your knowledge, skill and tank will make you successful. Good luck!
terri_ann
Well-Known Member
Use it in the Fluval. Gac= granulated active carbon. Gfo= granulated ferric oxide. Note: there are other means for decreasing nitrate such as denitrator. Phosphate can be lower by other means as well such as Vinegar/Sugar/and Vodka mentioned above. There is a product PhosRx and others too. Randy-Holmes-Farley has published many articles (and threads) about reefkeeping, as well as Dan Riddle, and many, many others. I'd recommend you do a lot of reading and then ask questions when unsure:0)
Last edited:
bblumberg
Well-Known Member
I have Siporax in my sump, but you need to design it so that clean water runs through the Siporax for maximum effectiveness. In my sump, the water comes in, rises over a baffle into the filter socks, exits from the bottom of the socks and then under a baffle and up through the Siporax layer (I have 25 mm Siporax stacked in light diffuser baskets), then over a baffle into the skimmer chamber and over a baffle into the return chamber. I don't think this approach would be all that easy for your sump as pictured. Perhaps just put the Siporax in a basket with spacers to allow water flow under and all around.
I think that I'd move the sand you have in the sump into the display if you want more there, otherwise it is not really helping you much as Terri Ann noted.
Bruce
