Nitrates/Phosphates too high

[Sparkee]

For past 7 months, nitrates and phosphates are too high. Bio loads not the problem.Water changes every 1-2 weeks 10% , Did a 30 % Dec 1. Cut back feeding.Flakes in am and frozen mysis shrimp in pm. Change sock every week. Tested RO water. Now using GFO in reactor for past 4 weeks.Below is chart for month of Dec for water chemistry. No algae problems and corals are fine. Using Hannah tests for Alk,Nitrate,phosphate. Any thoughts??

 

[gbroadbridge]

For past 7 months, nitrates and phosphates are too high. Bio loads not the problem.Water changes every 1-2 weeks 10% , Did a 30 % Dec 1. Cut back feeding.Flakes in am and frozen mysis shrimp in pm. Change sock every week. Tested RO water. Now using GFO in reactor for past 4 weeks.Below is chart for month of Dec for water chemistry. No algae problems and corals are fine. Using Hannah tests for Alk,Nitrate,phosphate. Any thoughts??

How old is the tank?

 

[NowGlazeIT]

For past 7 months, nitrates and phosphates are too high. Bio loads not the problem.Water changes every 1-2 weeks 10% , Did a 30 % Dec 1. Cut back feeding.Flakes in am and frozen mysis shrimp in pm. Change sock every week. Tested RO water. Now using GFO in reactor for past 4 weeks.Below is chart for month of Dec for water chemistry. No algae problems and corals are fine. Using Hannah tests for Alk,Nitrate,phosphate. Any thoughts??

How did you measure the phosphates?
You may need to add another form of nutrient export to your 220g. example; algae scrubber, macro algae in refugium, bio pellets, carbon dosing, daily water changes, denitrator with more GFO or more frequent GFO replacements.

 

[LiveFreeAndReef]

If everything is doing well, are they really "too high"?

 

[wmb0003]

Phosphates should be reduced if using GFO, what Hanna phosphate are you using? Does it top out at 0.9, maybe you are actually higher than you think.

 

[Stv]

Can you set up a chaeto refugium? Lots is ways to lower but would be nice to find the source of it. Start at food source.

 

[sdreef]

For past 7 months, nitrates and phosphates are too high. Bio loads not the problem.Water changes every 1-2 weeks 10% , Did a 30 % Dec 1. Cut back feeding.Flakes in am and frozen mysis shrimp in pm. Change sock every week. Tested RO water. Now using GFO in reactor for past 4 weeks.Below is chart for month of Dec for water chemistry. No algae problems and corals are fine. Using Hannah tests for Alk,Nitrate,phosphate. Any thoughts??

My tank is about a year old, and my nitrates and phosphates were high, but given the corals looked really good and no algae issues. I didn't intervene until last month. All of my other chemistry parameters remained stable by ICP, it was only the nutrients. I feed my tank frequently and have a high bioload, so the source is clear.

I reached a point where I did have a few frags RTN, and other corals started to look less happy. I can't say for certain it was the nutrients, but that's was my leading suspicion. My nitrates were 60 and the phosphate was over 1 by ICP.

I've lowered the nitrates with water changes. I performed two 15% water changes in one week and increased the volume of a daily water exchange. I added rowa phos which I have changed biweekly. Currently nitrates are down to 20 and phosphates are down to 0.4 as I work to bring the parameters down slowly.

Regarding your system, you didn't mention other methods of filtration (i.e. skimmer, refugium), but additional methods of export would be one thing to look at. Regarding GFO, how much and how often you are changing it are variables you can play with. Check the phosphates at the same time daily, preferably before feeding as foods containing phosphates can affect your measurements. Regarding the nitrates, you can change your filter sock more frequently, perhaps twice a week.

 

[Sparkee]

My tank is about a year old, and my nitrates and phosphates were high, but given the corals looked really good and no algae issues. I didn't intervene until last month. All of my other chemistry parameters remained stable by ICP, it was only the nutrients. I feed my tank frequently and have a high bioload, so the source is clear.

I reached a point where I did have a few frags RTN, and other corals started to look less happy. I can't say for certain it was the nutrients, but that's was my leading suspicion. My nitrates were 60 and the phosphate was over 1 by ICP.

I've lowered the nitrates with water changes. I performed two 15% water changes in one week and increased the volume of a daily water exchange. I added rowa phos which I have changed biweekly. Currently nitrates are down to 20 and phosphates are down to 0.4 as I work to bring the parameters down slowly.

Regarding your system, you didn't mention other methods of filtration (i.e. skimmer, refugium), but additional methods of export would be one thing to look at. Regarding GFO, how much and how often you are changing it are variables you can play with. Check the phosphates at the same time daily, preferably before feeding as foods containing phosphates can affect your measurements. Regarding the nitrates, you can change your filter sock more frequently, perhaps twice a week.

How much rowa are you using and how large is your tank? Isn't row a form of GFO? I was told to leave GFO alone for a month before changing. ( I put a cup of GFO in a reactor). My skimmer does a great job ( reef octopus 202-5). I clean it weekly.

 

[Salty2021]

Had similar problem. I have a aio all in one tank. Why to many nitrates. Put purigen and a biopellets reactor. Tank is doing well.

 

[sdreef]

How much rowa are you using and how large is your tank? Isn't row a form of GFO? I was told to leave GFO alone for a month before changing. ( I put a cup of GFO in a reactor). My skimmer does a great job ( reef octopus 202-5). I clean it weekly.

Rowa phos is a brand of gfo. Here’s a thread discussing if interested.

GFO or Rowaphos

Whats your preference? Ive got one tank running GFO but Im going to do another with Rowaphos to see which I like better. The GFO seems to handle phosphates pretty good and my size tank it lasts a while and thats my main draw back to using Rowaphos.

www.reef2reef.com

My tank is 330 gallons. GFO binds phosphate. If you have high phosphate, you will exhaust the GFO’s binding capacity faster. So one month may be fine once you achieve a lower level for maintenance, but some of that depends on what works for your system (I.e how much are you importing through your feeding practices, what other methods of export do you use in your specific system). There’s nothing magical about a month, it’s just the math of binding capacity available vs the amount of phosphate to bind. While your working to reduce the level you may need to change more frequently. The variables for gfo use include: 1. The amount of gfo in the reactor 2. The rate of flow 3. How frequently you change the media
In my case, Rowa phos has a calculator to determine the amount of gfo to remove a targeted amount of phosphate. I calculated the amount required to remove 0.1 ppm phosphate for my water volume. I arbitrarily chose this amount in order to go slow with adjusting the levels. I’m trying to reduce by 0.2-0.3 per week.

Keep an eye on alk when adding new gfo as well as it will dip a bit. I just add some alk at the same time as changing the gfo, the volume depends on your system, but just be aware of it and test it. Once I achieve my target nutrient levels, I’ll need to see how often I change the gfo based on regular testing of the phosphates. I’m hoping it’s only once a month, but it’s possible it may be more often based on my feeding practices.

 

[Sparkee]

Rowa phos is a brand of gfo. Here’s a thread discussing if interested.

GFO or Rowaphos

Whats your preference? Ive got one tank running GFO but Im going to do another with Rowaphos to see which I like better. The GFO seems to handle phosphates pretty good and my size tank it lasts a while and thats my main draw back to using Rowaphos.

www.reef2reef.com

My tank is 330 gallons. GFO binds phosphate. If you have high phosphate, you will exhaust the GFO’s binding capacity faster. So one month may be fine once you achieve a lower level for maintenance, but some of that depends on what works for your system (I.e how much are you importing through your feeding practices, what other methods of export do you use in your specific system). There’s nothing magical about a month, it’s just the math of binding capacity available vs the amount of phosphate to bind. While your working to reduce the level you may need to change more frequently. The variables for gfo use include: 1. The amount of gfo in the reactor 2. The rate of flow 3. How frequently you change the media
In my case, Rowa phos has a calculator to determine the amount of gfo to remove a targeted amount of phosphate. I calculated the amount required to remove 0.1 ppm phosphate for my water volume. I arbitrarily chose this amount in order to go slow with adjusting the levels. I’m trying to reduce by 0.2-0.3 per week.

Keep an eye on alk when adding new gfo as well as it will dip a bit. I just add some alk at the same time as changing the gfo, the volume depends on your system, but just be aware of it and test it. Once I achieve my target nutrient levels, I’ll need to see how often I change the gfo based on regular testing of the phosphates. I’m hoping it’s only once a month, but it’s possible it may be more often based on my feeding practices.

Thanks

 

[Dhaleillama]

Make sure you are using quality test kit like Red Seas or Hannah ( some say salifert I just won't buy them ), and make sure your beneficial bacteria isn't depleted and thats why nothing is dissolving. I would slap some Fritz Turbo 900 in the tank, OR dose Microbacteria7 for a week and re test after 5-7 days of using that to see what you get. Also try and figure out where its all coming from, is it your foods you are using? If so cut it in half or skip days.

Also don't forget, as long as you are stabile, nutrition levels being up there is not that big of a deal, its the fluctuation that is more harmful.

 

[ReefRusty]

Is it 0.9 or 0.09?

 

[Sparkee]

Is it 0.9 or 0.09?

.9

 

[Sparkee]

Make sure you are using quality test kit like Red Seas or Hannah ( some say salifert I just won't buy them ), and make sure your beneficial bacteria isn't depleted and thats why nothing is dissolving. I would slap some Fritz Turbo 900 in the tank, OR dose Microbacteria7 for a week and re test after 5-7 days of using that to see what you get. Also try and figure out where its all coming from, is it your foods you are using? If so cut it in half or skip days.

Also don't forget, as long as you are stabile, nutrition levels being up there is not that big of a deal, its the fluctuation that is more harmful.

Im using Hannah for alk,phosphates and nitrates. Ive already cut the amount of food.Ill look into Fritz. Thanks

 

[Heres_doe_]

Im using Hannah for alk,phosphates and nitrates. Ive already cut the amount of food.Ill look into Fritz. Thanks

Ok so i had the same parameters months ago. This is exactly how i lowered everything to 15 ppm average and .06. I first stopped feeding everyday i feed every other day. I don't feed dry food or coral food any more unless my phosphates fall a bit more. I only feed frozen and only worry about my fish really and once a week or so I'll give my bigger LPS and nem jumbo mysis piece. I run skimmer all day. And i added GFO to my sump no reactor just yet but doing great. I change from filter sock to polyfill in a media cup so much better. And just importantly too. Stop doing 10% water changes every week. Sometimes u might need 30% sometimes only 10% but i read nitrates before a water change and make water changes based on that. If they sit where i want them to then I'll do like a 10% of higher I'll do a bigger water change. It took me months to bring them down because i didn't want to dose nopox. I recently just added bio media and dosing bacteria every for a week so i can do smaller water changes at the end of the week and my nitrates don't creep up as much. Hope this helps. Sorry for the story.

 

[Sparkee]

Ok so i had the same parameters months ago. This is exactly how i lowered everything to 15 ppm average and .06. I first stopped feeding everyday i feed every other day. I don't feed dry food or coral food any more unless my phosphates fall a bit more. I only feed frozen and only worry about my fish really and once a week or so I'll give my bigger LPS and nem jumbo mysis piece. I run skimmer all day. And i added GFO to my sump no reactor just yet but doing great. I change from filter sock to polyfill in a media cup so much better. And just importantly too. Stop doing 10% water changes every week. Sometimes u might need 30% sometimes only 10% but i read nitrates before a water change and make water changes based on that. If they sit where i want them to then I'll do like a 10% of higher I'll do a bigger water change. It took me months to bring them down because i didn't want to dose nopox. I recently just added bio media and dosing bacteria every for a week so i can do smaller water changes at the end of the week and my nitrates don't creep up as much. Hope this helps. Sorry for the story.

Thanks for your story! Many have told me to use NOpox but I don't want to add chemicals if I don't have to . Last summer, someone suggested vibrant.. Followed directions and it decreased oxygen level. lost large hippo,yellow tang, fox face.Appreciate your advice.

 

[EakTheFreak]

Ok so i had the same parameters months ago. This is exactly how i lowered everything to 15 ppm average and .06. I first stopped feeding everyday i feed every other day. I don't feed dry food or coral food any more unless my phosphates fall a bit more. I only feed frozen and only worry about my fish really and once a week or so I'll give my bigger LPS and nem jumbo mysis piece. I run skimmer all day. And i added GFO to my sump no reactor just yet but doing great. I change from filter sock to polyfill in a media cup so much better. And just importantly too. Stop doing 10% water changes every week. Sometimes u might need 30% sometimes only 10% but i read nitrates before a water change and make water changes based on that. If they sit where i want them to then I'll do like a 10% of higher I'll do a bigger water change. It took me months to bring them down because i didn't want to dose nopox. I recently just added bio media and dosing bacteria every for a week so i can do smaller water changes at the end of the week and my nitrates don't creep up as much. Hope this helps. Sorry for the story.

Why are you anti-NOPOX?

 

[wmb0003]

I understand your concern with dosing chemicals but I would say it is more natural than some other chemicals on the market such as vibrant. NoPOX is a carbon source that feeds bacteria that consumes nitrates, then you skim out said bacteria. Give this article a read, it explains it much better than I can. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/

Also there is a concern for bacterial blooms if you dose nopox, because of this I dose a carbon source directly into a low flow reactor. I was able to bring down nitrates from 60ppm(at peak- it mostly hovered in the 40ppm range) down to under 10ppm and now I am on a maintenance(reduced) dosing schedule to keep my nitrates where I want.

 

[Heres_doe_]

Why are you anti-NOPOX?

Not that I'm anti.... Only issue is if ur dosing nopox have u really fixed your problem? No you haven't. You're really just covering up ur problem. So that can be over feeding, not enough water being changed, things like that. He needs to change his ways and find what's causing all this build up.