Nitrates still 160 ppm
- Thread starter gemini9
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gemini9
Newb!
I bought a Phosphate test kit from API and tested. This test is very difficult to read, but my phosphates look to be around .25 or less. I'd say it's maybe between 0 and .25. Looks pretty low to me.
Dalmatia
Valuable Member
Ya api is hard to tell for phosphates! Next time just get the Hanna checkers phosphate kit, it's digital so all you read is the numbers 
They are like $50ea,,, pretty pricy but that's the only one I'd get at that price
They are like $50ea,,, pretty pricy but that's the only one I'd get at that price
Dalmatia
Valuable Member
One more thing with API. Use a syringe to fill the test tubes cause more than half are at a faulty 5ml line. The 5ml mark is different on some test tubes and none are at exactly 5ml for some reason, plus using a syringe is a lot quicker and can fill 2 tubes if you have 10ml on it (use 5ml for tube and the rest into another)
If you read any color at all, I mean even a hint of it not being straight yellow, using the API, then its way to high.
PaulKreider
Valuable Member
Most of the API tests aren't bad, but yes the phosphate kit tends to have some problems. The others all work fine for me.
All phosphate kits have problems.
PaulKreider
Valuable Member
I ment the other API test kits*
I was just saying that all phosphate kits are kinda useless.... there's nothing wrong with API at all. I have found the Ca kit to be more accurate than salifert. It has the same reading as my elos kit, salifert wants to test high for me.
icsparks
Community Member
IMHO Nitrates is the bi-product of the cycle produced from bacteria breaking down waste, and it will remain and or increase in the aquarium unless you take steps to remove it. The removal can be done through water changes, skimmers, algae scrubber or macro algae, binding with a carbon source and skimming. Nitrate doesn't leach out of rocks although the die off of organisms on the rock can produce nitrates. Live rock die off would have a greater chance at producing nitrates then anything dried up and dead on dry rock. When nitrate is produced on the surface of media such as bio-balls, dirty filter socks or pads it mixes into the entire water column, and if not manually removed by water changes it has to find its way to the places where it may be reduced inside of the rock, deep sand bed, or low oxygen bacteria area and is converted into N2, and the N2 to into the air.
1. Water changes-- Don't use tap water. Use pure 0 TDS RO/DI water.
2. Remove all dead matter from the live rock before placed into the tank or cycle the rock first in a tub.
3. Don't be lazy - Clean all mechanical filters. Change filter socks sponges and pads every 3 to 4 days.
IMHO mechanical filtration is a great way to remove suspended waste from the aquarium before it breaks down and can prevent nitrates before they happen. It is far better to export uneaten food and waste then let it settle somewhere in the tank or sump and produce waste. BUT you have to clean and or replace the filter media before it does start to break down or it will do more harm then good. That is why some lazy people call such filters "nitrate factories"
4.Blow off the rocks during maintenance on the tank. use a mechanical filter to remove the suspended crap or it will just settle somewhere else. Remember to change out the filter pads.
5. feed less, spot feed. Shut down the flow and feed only what the fish will eat. Don't let the food go everywhere. spot feed if needed.
6. Go +1 on skimmer
7 Let the bacteria do the job---Use a carbon source with skimming and or bio pellet reactor.
8. Algae can be your friend. Add algae scrubber and or macro algae to the sump.
9. Although not my favorite fix all, deep sand beds have been known to reduce nitrates. Not debating good or bad.
1. Water changes-- Don't use tap water. Use pure 0 TDS RO/DI water.
2. Remove all dead matter from the live rock before placed into the tank or cycle the rock first in a tub.
3. Don't be lazy - Clean all mechanical filters. Change filter socks sponges and pads every 3 to 4 days.
IMHO mechanical filtration is a great way to remove suspended waste from the aquarium before it breaks down and can prevent nitrates before they happen. It is far better to export uneaten food and waste then let it settle somewhere in the tank or sump and produce waste. BUT you have to clean and or replace the filter media before it does start to break down or it will do more harm then good. That is why some lazy people call such filters "nitrate factories"
4.Blow off the rocks during maintenance on the tank. use a mechanical filter to remove the suspended crap or it will just settle somewhere else. Remember to change out the filter pads.
5. feed less, spot feed. Shut down the flow and feed only what the fish will eat. Don't let the food go everywhere. spot feed if needed.
6. Go +1 on skimmer
7 Let the bacteria do the job---Use a carbon source with skimming and or bio pellet reactor.
8. Algae can be your friend. Add algae scrubber and or macro algae to the sump.
9. Although not my favorite fix all, deep sand beds have been known to reduce nitrates. Not debating good or bad.
I don't test phosphate. I look at my tank, see any hair algae? Do I have to clean the glass every day or 4? No? Then I don't have a phosphate problem...... Let me explain..... The test kits only will show what's in the water column. Phosphate will bind up in rocks and substrate, and then leach out. It will also be held inside the algae. You don't know how many times I have seen "OMG I have hair algae everywhere but my po4 tests at 0.04". Its because the algae is consuming it and a test kit will not reflect that. Chasing the numbers is a good search to look for. Instead of worrying about what a test kit says, just look in the tank. Corals happy? No algae? Then no problem!
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gemini9
Newb!
I did another 20% water change today. This time I was more thorough. I took my power head and ran it around my tank, blowing debris off of my rock and crushed coral bed. There was ALLOT of loose particles came off of those rocks. I tried not to disturb the diatoms too much tho... aren't they required to complete my cycle? Anyway, I blew off the rocks of debris. After that, I siphoned out 6 gallons of my 30g tank. While siphoning, I poked the vacuum end into the crushed coral to get way down deep into the bed and I noticed allot debris and dust stuff coming up and out of the tube. I took my filters and bio wheels out of the tank and rinsed them off in the old water. Added the fresh rodi water and I let everything circulate and settle for a few hours and tested nitrates. I set my powerhead back up and pointed it at the rocks directly, as it was previously.
Nitrates are now out of the blood red color and into the... ORANGE! WOOOHOOO! Making progress! Unless I tested wrong, I've managed to get my nitrates from 160ppm down to 40 ppm. I have not used the addivite either. I have a HOB skimmer on the way along with 2 more pounds of dry rock which I intend to soak and wash for a week before adding it to the tank.
Now with all that said, can I start on my CUC this weekend or should I continue to let my diatoms bloom?
Nitrates are now out of the blood red color and into the... ORANGE! WOOOHOOO! Making progress! Unless I tested wrong, I've managed to get my nitrates from 160ppm down to 40 ppm. I have not used the addivite either. I have a HOB skimmer on the way along with 2 more pounds of dry rock which I intend to soak and wash for a week before adding it to the tank.
Now with all that said, can I start on my CUC this weekend or should I continue to let my diatoms bloom?
PaulKreider
Valuable Member
Sounds like you're doing good! I'd go ahead and add the CUC, I've got a reinforcement shipment of CUC critters coming in the mail Thursday 
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gemini9
Newb!
I'll start doing some research on CUC. Any recommendations on what would be a good crew to start with? Snails? Crabs? Hermits? Shrimp? There are so many I'm a litte confused.
Tank specs
30 gallon long
Crushed Coral bed
Salinity 1.024
Temp 77-78
28 pounds LR/DR with 2 more pounds on the way
Marineland Penguin 350 HOB Filter
Reef Octopus HOB Skimmer BH100 on the way
MaxiJet 400 Powerhead in circulation mode
A few seashells in there too
Standard tube floursecent light
Tank specs
30 gallon long
Crushed Coral bed
Salinity 1.024
Temp 77-78
28 pounds LR/DR with 2 more pounds on the way
Marineland Penguin 350 HOB Filter
Reef Octopus HOB Skimmer BH100 on the way
MaxiJet 400 Powerhead in circulation mode
A few seashells in there too
Standard tube floursecent light
Hanna Checker
