Your are correct, and they sold a power supply rated for 144w.I think the problem started because the lights were listed as 140watt and the power supply is listed as 126watts. I just visited their website and unless I'm missing it I no longer see the lights output being listed and I'm pretty sure it used to state they were 140 watt
It’s still on there.I think the problem started because the lights were listed as 140watt and the power supply is listed as 126watts. I just visited their website and unless I'm missing it I no longer see the lights output being listed and I'm pretty sure it used to state they were 140 watt
What they are trying to say is the light will use 124w, the power supply uses 16w, together they use 140w. But only 124w goes to the light, the output watts.It’s still on there.
So if I put the new lights at 100% on my kasa strip it would only read 126ish watts?
If so, it wouldn’t be a safety hazard but just a misrepresentation of the lights power?
The lights are capable of 140w & they do not care what is supplying them. This whole thing reminds me of the movie fight club on how Ed Norton is evaluating risk. The likelihood the 123w supply running at full power of the light is going to catch fire is unlikely, but there is a risk on using a lower spec'd device. Your Kasa Strip is going to read 140w & there is the safety risk. You have a device rated lower than the application.It’s still on there.
So if I put the new lights at 100% on my kasa strip it would only read 126ish watts?
If so, it wouldn’t be a safety hazard but just a misrepresentation of the lights power?
I guess I’m still not understanding.
Typically, you want to have the power supply wattage greater than the device. The MAX draw of these lights is 140w. Regardless if you have 100w supply or 500w supply, the lights are going to try to draw 140w at max setting. This 123w version is capable of pushing the lights at 140w, even though it is only rated at 123w. The risk is degradation/life of the supply or even the lights is at hand. Along with safety concerns. The power supply will most likely run hotter & have stress on the components. It is not rated or meant to be used higher than 123w. Can it do 140w, yes. Is it recommended, no. There are reasons these labels exist. No telling what long term use of this supply above it rated wattage is going to do. I would trust the label over what anyone said or says. Just know there is a risk if running these at full power.
Yes, leds are generally passive devices but it is a bit more complicated than you state.
im not an electrician, but my understanding was that the power supply is actually a 140w supply housed in a 126w casing. I assume the bronze power supply cost went up and they wanted to maximize profits and made their own. Again, i could be wrong and maybe the apex isnt reading it right either. But when plugged into the apex i get a read out of 1.6 amps being used when light is full power. 1.6amps x 110 volts = 176 total watts. I doubt they are using high efficient power supplies- especially since it appears they frankensteined one together. so my guess is probably 80% efficient which would give you an output of 140.8watts. so the power supply is using 176 total watts from the wall to supply the light with 140.8 watts. again this was my take on it. could be completely wrong.
Thanks for posting your findings. I don’t have a way to test it and I’m not going to buy something just to test the lights. This should be pretty helpful for anyone looking into these lights. Noop was stating the supply has 126w output, I don’t think they are sure at this point.
UL listed ect. Means they paid someone to test their work..
www.bravoelectro.com
Yeah all their responses seem off. Could ve language barrier or just that they really don't know what they did.
yes alot of certifications on the back of that power supply casing. But Noops said they modified the power supply to meet the specs of the light. i doubt the certs would carry over after the modications?UL listed ect. Means they paid someone to test their work..
Some listings are self tested.
A lot of cheap power supplies have few certifications.
Problem is it is sort of cryptic and sometimes means less than you think.
Some are for rfi interference (not sure this has one though I certainly am not familiar with all labels), some for safety ect.
It is very complicated afaict.
Power Supply Certification | How to Check the Certification of Your PSU | Bravo Electro
Wondering how to check the certification of your PSU? Our guide to power supply certification will cover everything you need to know about the various PSU...
The TUV Rhineland one is rare to me.
Not sure it isn't just psychologically satisfying.
The VI defines the no load power consumption level and efficiency
0.21 (or less) no load watts and >/= 88%
If legit (and no reason to believe its counterfeit or faked) the ps certainly "appears" better than the average Chinese stuff.
Still really doesn't have anything to do with being err "mismatched" or not but should lower the chances of it bursting into flames..
same here just days back i was about to place the order but just before finishing the transaction I decided to do 1 more deep dive into the noop threads. I was bummed to come across this convo because I was dead set on noops being the best option for my frag tank. Even tho they are fairly cheap lights it’s still $150 somethin bucks at the end of the day and I’ve done enough AliExpress led shopping in the past to know better when I see multiple ppl having issues/ doubts about a product that’s manufactured over seas. It’s a shame that they aren’t being transparent with their supporters.
We understand that, that isn't the concern. Just a quick Google search of possible competitors, 100w Nicrew has a 120w brick, 270w Reefi Uno Pro has a 300w brick.
