Not sure if this is an emergency or not?

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I have a 40 breeder with a 20 sump. Right now I only have 1 Clownfish and one red fire shrimp. The tank was newly cycled as of 3 weeks ago, and the numbers looked stable. I asked someone here about coralline algae and how you can get them into your tank. someone here suggested "purple helix", I googled them and even spoke to the tech there. Seemed straight forward. It's algae spores and Nitrifying bacteria in a bottle. Long story short. The tech said you could with fish in the tank but to keep an eye out for ammonia spikes, the bacteria will cycle the tank again.

How high is too high? I don't want to hurt the fish and shrimp. Before the cycling started my Ammonia and Nitrites where zero and the Nitrates barely showed at all.

Right now they

Ammonia 0.25
Nitrites between 0.25 to 0.50
Nitrates around 20

I'm not sure if I should wait it out with the fish in it or remove them and water change? Thanks in advance.

#Reefsquad

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Even trace amounts of ammonia can cause harm to marine livestock.

I would do water changes ASAP.
I agree...regular water changes (e.g. every day) to keep the ammonia levels down.

As an aside, I don't think the Purple Helix is the cause of the ammonia spike. I suspect your tank was not fully cycled. Patience is a virtue, especially in reef keeping. Take it slooooow.
 
Also, a great way to get corralline into your tank is to by a piece of live rock that has it on it and put it into your tank. You can even scrape the coralline off the rock to help disperse it around your tank. If you have a reefer friend, you can usually to this for free (my preferred price :))
 
I agree...regular water changes (e.g. every day) to keep the ammonia levels down.

As an aside, I don't think the Purple Helix is the cause of the ammonia spike. I suspect your tank was not fully cycled. Patience is a virtue, especially in reef keeping. Take it slooooow.

Ok, assuming I do water changes daily. will the tank cycle by doing that?
 
The tech said you could with fish in the tank but to keep an eye out for ammonia spikes, the bacteria will cycle the tank again.
Just curious why bacteria would cause an ammonia spike. Wouldn't the bacteria do just the opposite?
 
Also, a great way to get corralline into your tank is to by a piece of live rock that has it on it and put it into your tank. You can even scrape the coralline off the rock to help disperse it around your tank. If you have a reefer friend, you can usually to this for free (my preferred price :))

It's only been like 5 days since I put it in and already have pinkish purple algae growing on a sump rock.
 
Just curious why bacteria would cause an ammonia spike. Wouldn't the bacteria do just the opposite?

It's Nitrifying Bacteria the same that's used in Dr. Tims. The tech said it cycle again and to keep an eye out for ammonia spikes.
 
Ok, assuming I do water changes daily. will the tank cycle by doing that?
No, "cycling" really means that you break down organics and build up a colony of denitrifying bacteria. It takes time. See this article.
 
Just curious why bacteria would cause an ammonia spike. Wouldn't the bacteria do just the opposite?

I guess the WHY portion of your question is it was designed for the new tank starter in mind. I guess?
 
No, "cycling" really means that you break down organics and build up a colony of denitrifying bacteria. It takes time. See this article.

I see. so you're saying to water change in order to keep the ammonia low so that it doesn't stall cycle. got it! so like a 10% daily?
 
what test kit you using? API gives false readings of 0.25 for ammonia


I'm new to this whole thing and I got that's the one i have right now. I have plans to upgrade all of it ASAP. I think we can all agree that Aquariums are not cheap. lol
 
Yes, what @eggplantparrot said.

If you do have API, get a better test kit and stop feeding the fish for a couple of days if your ammonia is up.
I would also take some of your tank water and add a few drops of your corallin bacteria spore additive and retest that mixture to see if there isn't some NH3 in the bottle? If your tank is cycled then the NH3 may have come with the coralline inoculation?

Edit: Agree, tanks are money pits! Still you have made the right choice IMO! :)
 
Yes, what @eggplantparrot said.

If you do have API, get a better test kit and stop feeding the fish for a couple of days if your ammonia is up.
I would also take some of your tank water and add a few drops of your corallin bacteria spore additive and retest that mixture to see if there isn't some NH3 in the bottle? If your tank is cycled then the NH3 may have come with the coralline inoculation?

Edit: Agree, tanks are money pits! Still you have made the right choice IMO! :)[/QUOTE

So the consensus is to keep them in the tank and do 10% water changes daily until the tank is cycled? lol
 
Yes - check your readings - probably false if you use a total NH3/NH4 test like API.


Your tank is not cycled - you have NO2 - it means that the cycle has stall before the second step NO2-> NO3 (first step NH4->NO3 is normally started already after a few days - I still think your NH3/NH4 levels is false) The reason why you reading NO3 is that NO2 in the water give false readings of NO3 with a factor between 50 - 100 times. However - it is not any reasons to panic. Just stop feeding and wait. NO2 is not toxic in saltwater. Ad nitrifying bacteria. IMO - even if the nitrifiers not are any bacteria that swim around (the attach to some substrate) is my experiences that large WC often make the cycling process slower. Please read my article – it will give you some ideas


Sincerely Lasse
 
Yes - check your readings - probably false if you use a total NH3/NH4 test like API.


Your tank is not cycled - you have NO2 - it means that the cycle has stall before the second step NO2-> NO3 (first step NH4->NO3 is normally started already after a few days - I still think your NH3/NH4 levels is false) The reason why you reading NO3 is that NO2 in the water give false readings of NO3 with a factor between 50 - 100 times. However - it is not any reasons to panic. Just stop feeding and wait. NO2 is not toxic in saltwater. Ad nitrifying bacteria. IMO - even if the nitrifiers not are any bacteria that swim around (the attach to some substrate) is my experiences that large WC often make the cycling process slower. Please read my article – it will give you some ideas


Sincerely Lasse

Got to agree that water changes would slow down a complete cycle in most cases.

The clownfish should be fine.
 
Yes - check your readings - probably false if you use a total NH3/NH4 test like API.


Your tank is not cycled - you have NO2 - it means that the cycle has stall before the second step NO2-> NO3 (first step NH4->NO3 is normally started already after a few days - I still think your NH3/NH4 levels is false) The reason why you reading NO3 is that NO2 in the water give false readings of NO3 with a factor between 50 - 100 times. However - it is not any reasons to panic. Just stop feeding and wait. NO2 is not toxic in saltwater. Ad nitrifying bacteria. IMO - even if the nitrifiers not are any bacteria that swim around (the attach to some substrate) is my experiences that large WC often make the cycling process slower. Please read my article – it will give you some ideas


Sincerely Lasse
I also agree that water changes have the potential to slow down the cycling process, but it also will give your live inhabitants (clownfish and shrimp) a better chance of surviving. I really think the health of your current inhabitants should be your highest priority!
 
Yes - check your readings - probably false if you use a total NH3/NH4 test like API.


Your tank is not cycled - you have NO2 - it means that the cycle has stall before the second step NO2-> NO3 (first step NH4->NO3 is normally started already after a few days - I still think your NH3/NH4 levels is false) The reason why you reading NO3 is that NO2 in the water give false readings of NO3 with a factor between 50 - 100 times. However - it is not any reasons to panic. Just stop feeding and wait. NO2 is not toxic in saltwater. Ad nitrifying bacteria. IMO - even if the nitrifiers not are any bacteria that swim around (the attach to some substrate) is my experiences that large WC often make the cycling process slower. Please read my article – it will give you some ideas


Sincerely Lasse

Unfortunately, while reading this last night I was in the midst of a change. I appreciate the help. I finished about a 40% change cleaned the bottom of the tank of excess food, put the clown back in and this morning got some Nitrifying Bacteria. I think my problem was over feeding. I was feeding the clown live baby brine shrimp twice daily, and the shrimp a small little chunk of shrimp twice daily.

I'm going to follow your feeding schedule this time and see where it goes.
 

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