Nutrient control question......

It's true that both or either uv or po4 stripping would affect that tank above. The uv doesn't scrub it off the rocks, the keeper does and the uv fights the growback as those invaders pictured certainly have a water transitory phase.

Even if you did gfo which is also shown to alternatively fight those invaders, you start with a clean manually removed palette and use those correctly as preventers not removers of moneran and light algae infestations. The reef keeper should always be the remover, time to siphon rasp and clean.

All reactions done to the water are meant to be preventatives not removers of algae, this makes your tank immune to algae takeover regardless of method chosen.
 
It's true that both or either uv or po4 stripping would affect that tank above. The uv doesn't scrub it off the rocks, the keeper does and the uv fights the growback as those invaders pictured certainly have a water transitory phase.

Even if you did gfo which is also shown to alternatively fight those invaders, you start with a clean manually removed palette and use those correctly as preventers not removers of moneran and light algae infestations. The reef keeper should always be the remover, time to siphon rasp and clean.

All reactions done to the water are meant to be preventatives not removers of algae, this makes your tank immune to algae takeover regardless of method chosen.
And that is where I am confused because I do weekly 20 gallon water changes, this past week I have done about 60 gallons worth....brown stuff comes back on sand literally the next day and like stated earlier nitrates read 5 and phosphates read 0.00-0.04 on hannah
 
And I feed only once a day and not a lot either....that rock that has that weird brown algae on it is the only rock in the tank with it like that....
 
This is why I stopped nopox dosing just in case...should I stop or just continue going forward with it??
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How many gorgs do you have in the tank and how much have they grown? This may be the source of your issues. I can see 4 in the pics. If they are a good size and in a 165 with anything else, you corals are not thriving because of them! Most people do not know a lot about keeping them because they have only experience with one or two in a system. I have over 16 species in mine. I have been running them exclusively over 2 years and began over 3 years back. I have had a friend have 3 in his 120 he gave to me because his corals were dying.

Gorgs are masters of toxins and chemical warfare. They do not play well with sps or lps at all. I even tried a tank connected through my sump and run through carbon all water that went into it and lps and sps still died.

If you have more than those 4 gorgs, this is more than likely the source of your headaches. It took a lot for me to understand gorgs, but I have done tons of research on the animals since people do not keep multiples very often not much is out there on aquariums with them.
 
It's noncompliant instances like low po4 on the verge of coral starvation and persistent invasion which put me to cheating in many large threads to get decent after pics. I find one should merely directly attack any invader if water params are fine and an invader persists, and uv is in line with that. I'd never ever put red slime remover in my tank.

Oversized UV can be tried as well and legitimately. Amazon has a 30 day return policy there is no harm in trying a big ole koi pond sterilizer for a thousand gallon pond they can be creatively and temporarily plumbed in to test for 29 days for effect.
 
How many gorgs do you have in the tank and how much have they grown? This may be the source of your issues. I can see 4 in the pics. If they are a good size and in a 165 with anything else, you corals are not thriving because of them! Most people do not know a lot about keeping them because they have only experience with one or two in a system. I have over 16 species in mine. I have been running them exclusively over 2 years and began over 3 years back. I have had a friend have 3 in his 120 he gave to me because his corals were dying.

Gorgs are masters of toxins and chemical warfare. They do not play well with sps or lps at all. I even tried a tank connected through my sump and run through carbon all water that went into it and lps and sps still died.

If you have more than those 4 gorgs, this is more than likely the source of your headaches. It took a lot for me to understand gorgs, but I have done tons of research on the animals since people do not keep multiples very often not much is out there on aquariums with them.
What!!!!!!???? I had no idea at all about that!!! I have 2 big ones and 2 small ones....I do run carbon in a bag in my sump, not sure how much that would help
 
It's noncompliant instances like low po4 on the verge of coral starvation and persistent invasion which put me to cheating in many large threads to get decent after pics. I find one should merely directly attack any invader if water params are fine and an invader persists, and uv is in line with that. I'd never ever put red slime remover in my tank.

Oversized UV can be tried as well and legitimately. Amazon has a 30 day return policy there is no harm in trying a big ole koi pond sterilizer for a thousand gallon pond they can be creatively and temporarily plumbed in to test for 29 days for effect.
I will definitely try this.....thank you for your input!
 
I have a couple anemones and we're doing great and then randomly started moving and then one started to look terrible and die .....they were doing great for awhile and nothing changed in my tank "that I knew of" but obviously when Zoas stop opening, sps start to pale out and anemones move something has to be up.....checked parameters and everything exactly where I thought and knew they were....I just ordered a triton test two days ago so i should be getting that in mail soon so the results will be interesting for sure
 
The sterilization of passing pods. That is what I was referring to.
My system circulates pods it is a crucial part of my tank.
With my years of industrial UV work I would worry about my population.
Also I breed snails, by the hundreds and worry of the effect of UV on them.

I have not been convinced that there is a benefit of UV but have always been curious of the results.
 
Only for specific invasions do I think they make a significant impact, and QT will take care of those without the uv alternatively they are just a luxury.
For sure if casting live pods is intended by upstream design it wouldn't be a good match or possibly gate restrict it somehow during a treatment of the DT for some cases. No need to counter act, your DT lps and fish want live pods but we have worked in tanks where live feed was the foregone luxury due to some invasion, they have such drastic effects in the commercial zone it's no problem for them to only be someone's reserve that stays hopefully unneeded.

For my ideal envisioned large tank they wouldn't run 24x7 they'd be plumbed in and sleeve serviced for deposition but off until needed. I would pay top dollar to have one plumbed and ready so I didn't have to chase nutrients if current tests shows them in line.

Your invaders if scrubbed off with the rasping end of a siphon hose will regroup after a water change removes most of their initial mass and uv will intercept directly after your thorough cleaning to zap all that. I would siphon up and clean upper layer of sand bed, I'd be deliberate and thorough with those invaders then flick on the light and hold course with nutrients po4 don't raise or lower in my opinion. Time to make up only for not having had the natural grazers in place, margarita snails and emerald crabs here as my guess.
 
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What!!!!!!???? I had no idea at all about that!!! I have 2 big ones and 2 small ones....I do run carbon in a bag in my sump, not sure how much that would help

This is what I mean. No one knows about this. I learned the hard way. If you want to try something, I would set up a new tank, 10g if you have around. Move the gorgs to this tank. Do not add it to the current system. You will need carbon and good circulation for the gorgs. You will need food and of course the LR too.

Next, run a new batch of carbon through your system and change after one week. This should help sort out the toxins. You should begin to see improvements in your corals within a week or two. I began my 40g because of this. I moved corals that were not doing well, receding and just all around not happy and within a week of being away from the gorgs, they were happy, growing and colorful.

Carbon will only help control the toxins with these guys, not eliminate it.
 
I keep a tank without a skimmer, without a sump and without nutrients.
 
Only for specific invasions do I think they make a significant impact, and QT will take care of those without the uv alternatively they are just a luxury.
For sure if casting live pods is intended by upstream design it wouldn't be a good match or possibly gate restrict it somehow during a treatment of the DT for some cases. No need to counter act, your DT lps and fish want live pods but we have worked in tanks where live feed was the foregone luxury due to some invasion, they have such drastic effects in the commercial zone it's no problem for them to only be someone's reserve that stays hopefully unneeded.

For my ideal envisioned large tank they wouldn't run 24x7 they'd be plumbed in and sleeve serviced for deposition but off until needed. I would pay top dollar to have one plumbed and ready so I didn't have to chase nutrients if current tests shows them in line.

Your invaders if scrubbed off with the rasping end of a siphon hose will regroup after a water change removes most of their initial mass and uv will intercept directly after your thorough cleaning to zap all that. I would siphon up and clean upper layer of sand bed, I'd be deliberate and thorough with those invaders then flick on the light and hold course with nutrients po4 don't raise or lower in my opinion. Time to make up only for not having had the natural grazers in place, margarita snails and emerald crabs here as my guess.
Okay I'll look into the uv and getting more of a clean il crew and stuff!!
 
I do have pods in my system - although by most standards not many.
I also have a steady supply of trocus snails - many but not all are retreived from the body of my skimmer (which doesn't skim) but which ny its action holds a reserve of water out of the main flow - and hence from the UV and DE systems. I manually pick them out and put them in the main when I see them. Its sort of my trocus excluder...not by design but by happy accident.
 
This is what I mean. No one knows about this. I learned the hard way. If you want to try something, I would set up a new tank, 10g if you have around. Move the gorgs to this tank. Do not add it to the current system. You will need carbon and good circulation for the gorgs. You will need food and of course the LR too.

Next, run a new batch of carbon through your system and change after one week. This should help sort out the toxins. You should begin to see improvements in your corals within a week or two. I began my 40g because of this. I moved corals that were not doing well, receding and just all around not happy and within a week of being away from the gorgs, they were happy, growing and colorful.

Carbon will only help control the toxins with these guys, not eliminate it.
Okay I will honestly probably just give them to the local fish store to hold and see if it makes a difference.....I never ever heard of this before!! Crazy!
 
Okay I will honestly probably just give them to the local fish store to hold and see if it makes a difference.....I never ever heard of this before!! Crazy!

Most people haven't. Just talked to vendors yesterday that had no idea. It is not well known as most do not keep very many or go as deep as I have with them.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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