OP
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OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
Thank you!
OG's 120g build
- Build Thread
- Thread starter OGFrenchHorn
- Start date
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.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
Where dod you had your adjustable nozzle set at
OP
OP
OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
If I remember correctly I think I had it out a turn and a half.
.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
Thanks
OP
OP
OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
Time to get to work!
.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
Time to get to work!
Nice. Get to it what are you waiting for lol
OP
OP
OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
Ummm. It didn't happen. I got side tracked. Lol
OP
OP
OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
Thanks!
OP
OP
OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
Ok so I got sidetracked and didn't get much plumbing done. Since my fiancés brother came over today I was going to have him go under the house and set up some support for under the tank. I looked at the foundation and it looks like there are big floor joists about 4 feet apart through out the house. The tank sits perpendicular on one joist and that kind of worries me. There's also a support pillar on that joist 4 feet from the wall.
I came up with this idea. I got some RV stabilizing jack stands some wood and load spreaders to run parallel to the joist and would be under each side of the tank
Oh, by the way he wussed out at the last minute so it didn't get done.
Should I continue with this plan or will the tank be ok? What do you think?
I came up with this idea. I got some RV stabilizing jack stands some wood and load spreaders to run parallel to the joist and would be under each side of the tank
Oh, by the way he wussed out at the last minute so it didn't get done.
Should I continue with this plan or will the tank be ok? What do you think?
Daniel@R2R
Living the Reef Life
WOW! I love that sump!Time to get to work!
OP
OP
OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
Thanks!
OP
OP
OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
Huge shout out to Nick for getting under the house to set up the support beams.
NICE.
OP
OP
OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
Plumbed the drain last night. I need to get one more union so I can line up the angles better
I also made a cut in the middle so that it relieves pressure on the bulk head (I've cracked the bottom of my old 150 because I didn't do this) and I'm going to put a vinyl coupling to join the pipe back together.
I'm going to see if I can use a hanging kit to try and make it more secure
I also made a cut in the middle so that it relieves pressure on the bulk head (I've cracked the bottom of my old 150 because I didn't do this) and I'm going to put a vinyl coupling to join the pipe back together.
I'm going to see if I can use a hanging kit to try and make it more secure
.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
The only thing you will hate is placing the return check valve that low. I did the same thing and when the pump is turned off you will hear a super loud bump every time and I mean is loud. I'm ordering another one and planing then as closest I can to the top
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OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
I don't mind that. The reason I want it near the pump is so that the water level doesn't rise as much when the pump turns off. If I don't like it, I put a union on both sides so I can move it if it bothers me
mcarroll
10K Club member
If you add another 10 feet of 1.5" plumbing draining into your sump, I think that's only going to drain an additional:
π•r²•h, right?
π • .75² • 120" = 212 in³
213in³ / 231 = .91 gallons of water.
Even if it was 2" plumbing it wold only be a little over a gallon and a half.
Am I figuring wrong, or can your sump handle that?
Now if you eliminate the check valve rather than just moving it up, then you might be draining the top two or three inches of tank.
You might end up with 20 extra gallons in your sump during power off that way.....much different!
I'd move the check valve up now, personally.
π•r²•h, right?
π • .75² • 120" = 212 in³
213in³ / 231 = .91 gallons of water.
Even if it was 2" plumbing it wold only be a little over a gallon and a half.
Am I figuring wrong, or can your sump handle that?
Now if you eliminate the check valve rather than just moving it up, then you might be draining the top two or three inches of tank.
You might end up with 20 extra gallons in your sump during power off that way.....much different!
I'd move the check valve up now, personally.
OP
OP
OGFrenchHorn
Active Member
If you add another 10 feet of 1.5" plumbing draining into your sump, I think that's only going to drain an additional:
π•r²•h, right?
π • .75² • 120" = 212 in³
213in³ / 231 = .91 gallons of water.
Even if it was 2" plumbing it wold only be a little over a gallon and a half.
Am I figuring wrong, or can your sump handle that?
Now if you eliminate the check valve rather than just moving it up, then you might be draining the top two or three inches of tank.
You might end up with 20 extra gallons in your sump during power off that way.....much different!
I'd move the check valve up now, personally.
Is having it that low that much of a problem? I like the idea of it being loud when the water cuts off so I know the return pump isn't on. The way I'm doing the plumbing, it wouldn't be a hassle to change it up.
