Ok members what should I write up next?

Have you done Zoa spiders? I've found a few at the store while doing dips on new colonies. They are creepy and gross.
I live so far out in the middle of nowhere that its hard for me to get my hands on stuff.
Usually I can get treatment down in about 8 weeks.
 
I live so far out in the middle of nowhere that its hard for me to get my hands on stuff.
Usually I can get treatment down in about 8 weeks.

Next time I find some, maybe I can send them to you. I usually just dump them with the dip water.
 
There was a pretty decent thread the other day about quick cycling tanks. Maybe something relating to the different methods of cycling tanks. Live rock/sand vs. dead. Seed bacteria in a bottle vs. naturally occurring. The proper order to add livestock: fish, corals, and inverts (clean-up crew). Maybe even make it into a series. Break it out into different stages, and what equipment is vital at each. For example, early on when cycling, you may not necessarily need your skimmer, or your Calc/Alk tests. If on a budget starting from scratch, list what is absolutely necessary for each stage of the build starting with cycling, adding first fish, adding soft/hard corals. That way you can get it started and buy other items you need weeks/months later when your budget allows.
 
I have a bunch of questions but they all have probably been answered somewhere else already but here it goes.
Why is my green hair algae brown? I don't have a lot, it looks and acts like green hair but its a dark shade of brown.
Also why does it seem to grow more on my snails than anywhere else?
Why does my alk and ca steadily decline while my mag actually increases? I thought all 3 were supposed to decrease but the mag not as fast.
Why do my hermits like riding around on the backs of my conch's? They just hitching a ride or are they actually eating something off of them? The conch's are actually the only ones that don't grow algae on their shells, maybe its because the hermits eat it all off?
Why doesn't my orchid dottyback come out and play anymore? she did in the small tank but when I switched to the big tank I rarely see her and its too bad because she is a beautiful fish.
ORP is a big question mark for me. I know it is not all that important for me because I am not running ozone but since I have the probe I still watch it. Why does it hover around 380, then at random times it will dive bomb to 320 then rise back up to 380?
How long do I qt fish for? corals? When I google that one I get about 100 different answers from a few days to 3 months. The 2 new fish I bought have been in qt for 3 weeks now, with no signs of stress or disease. can I pu them in the DT now or should I wait a little longer. The corals I bought at the same time I qt'd for a week. I dipped them with RX before qt, then again before putting them in the DT. Was that long enough?

Not sure if any of these were the kind of questions you were looking for but I thought I would throw them out there, just a few of the things that I was kinda curious about with my tank. Thanks for all you do. I lurk on this site a lot and have gained a lot of information from all of the kind folks here.
 
Gelbstoff
Do one on Gelbstoff.
I think that's what was in that guys sump and tank. a while ago. Eatsbreakfast?
 
How long do I qt fish for? corals? When I google that one I get about 100 different answers from a few days to 3 months. The 2 new fish I bought have been in qt for 3 weeks now, with no signs of stress or disease. can I pu them in the DT now or should I wait a little longer. The corals I bought at the same time I qt'd for a week. I dipped them with RX before qt, then again before putting them in the DT. Was that long enough?

Not sure if any of these were the kind of questions you were looking for but I thought I would throw them out there, just a few of the things that I was kinda curious about with my tank. Thanks for all you do. I lurk on this site a lot and have gained a lot of information from all of the kind folks here.

It depends on what your quarantining for. If your wanting to be sure you dont get ich into your tank, then you should QT corals for 76 days in a fishless QT. You can dip them of course because you should be worried about coral pests as well.
With your fish, you could run them through tank transfer method (TTM) combined with prazipro, then just keep them in QT for observation for another two weeks. Most people will prophylactically treat with copper or CP and prazipro. This covers velvet, ich and flukes- 3 of the most common diseases seen right now. This takes about 30 days, maybe more if you decide to treat separately for the flukes. I would recommend keeping them in the QT without the copper for another week or two to be sure they are eating and not having any other issues such as bacterial infections from all the "wounds" that the parasites inflict on them. I hope that answers your questions on those topics. If want more in depth info please visit us in the disease forum and peruse the stickies there. Ask lots of questions! We love them!
http://reef2reef.com/forums/fish-disease-treatment-and-diagnosis.771/
 
Why does my alk and ca steadily decline while my mag actually increases? I thought all 3 were supposed to decrease but the mag not as fast.


ORP is a big question mark for me. I know it is not all that important for me because I am not running ozone but since I have the probe I still watch it. Why does it hover around 380, then at random times it will dive bomb to 320 then rise back up to 380?

Calcium, alkalinity and magnesium decline in tandem due to calcification, about 1 meq/L (2.8 dKH) of alkalinty for each 18-20 ppm of calcium and 0-2 ppm of magnesium.

So the magnesium decline is so small that the testing error (which can be huge with magneisum kits) and water changes with salt mixes with very high magnesium, often make the magnesium decline difficult to observe clearly.

I discuss what adds and removes magnesium in these articles:

Aquarium Chemistry: Magnesium In Reef Aquaria ? Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blo
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/oct2003/chem.htm


ORP responds to the addition of oxidizers and reducing agents into the water, as well as pH. Those additions can come from salt mixes (water changes often drop ORP), supplements, foods, spawning events, dead organisms, etc. So there could be many explanations. I detail what impacts ORP here:

ORP and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-12/rhf/feature/index.htm
 
FWIW, I'm certainly not suggesting that folks such a Twillard should not write new articles about any of the topics in this thread, but some have already been done, or at least discussed in existing articles, so I mention them so that folks who are interested can read them now. :)

Gelbstoff
Do one on Gelbstoff.
I think that's what was in that guys sump and tank. a while ago. Eatsbreakfast?

Gelbstoff are the organic compounds that cause aquariums to become yellow over time. I discuss organic compounds and yellowing in reef tanks here:

Organic Compounds in the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/rhf/index.htm
 
Last edited:
- Effectively Skimming in AIO Style Tanks
- Effects of Excessive Trace Elements in the Reef Tank
 
This is why it is being hard to come up with something.
I am more of a pest guy.
Ok guys who are having a pest or nuisance issue... what it is?
I think I can work off of that :-)

Thank you Randy!
 
Lets chat again about symbiotic relationship coral and zooxanthellae.

Coral anatomy, or lack of, is not discussed enough to fully understand the reasoning behind our search for "perfect" water chemistry.
 
Its a bout 4 months that im dealing with dino or cyano.(i do not know exactly).Although it is getting better but hadnt still gone.And reefs are not as well as they were before.I wanna do these steps.Tell me if its a good idea or not:
1.I havent siphon my ref since the tank is created.I want to get the sands out and clean them but im worry a bout the cycle just f.. up.
2.Should i get the live rocks out and clean them with fresh water and also the tank sand bed?For this i still amworry a bout the cycle just f.. up.
3.2or3 days no lights.
4.The media should be washed or not(ive bio glass and bio balls)if they have will the bacterias die or will i have problem in ammonia if i clean them?
Sorry cause a lot questions,but im really f...up.
Thanks
 
Lets chat again about symbiotic relationship coral and zooxanthellae.

Coral anatomy, or lack of, is not discussed enough to fully understand the reasoning behind our search for "perfect" water chemistry.
I like this one :-)
 
FWIW, I'm certainly not suggesting that folks such a Twillard should not write new articles about any of the topics in this thread, but some have already been done, or at least discussed in existing articles, so I mention them so that folks who are interested can read them now. :)



Gelbstoff are the organic compounds that cause aquariums to become yellow over time. I discuss organic compounds and yellowing in reef tanks here:

Organic Compounds in the Reef Aquarium by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-10/rhf/index.htm
Thanks Randy. I came across it reading your work as I prep to start a vinegar dosing regimen.
Its a great hook word.
Although much has been written on the subject, I think the, "every man" or "every reefer" in this case, could use continued conversation on bacterial health and supplements. Particularly from reading the help needed threads.
With so many supplements available, and little understanding of whats in them and what can happen when overused or in combination with other methods, I think its worth as much attention as the use of other nutritional supplementation. More so in some instances as a few folks are still experiencing odd blooms/masses for a month or more.
Any good thread with references to soo much info and sooo many great articles already published is what keeps young reefers(me) learning, and keeps important topics at the forefront.

Mr twillard, Anything you come up with will be great!
Any topic that your passionate about that stirs thought and debate inspires further learning.
Maybe you should be the one who does the Florida live rock pest tank challenge tank. Renee and I would just give the bobbits names.(and hand feed)
You could figure out how to get the dang thing out.:D
 
With so many supplements available, and little understanding of whats in them and what can happen when overused or in combination with other methods, I think its worth as much attention as the use of other nutritional supplementation. More so in some instances as a few folks are still experiencing odd blooms/masses for a month or more.
.

I agree. :)
 
Its a bout 4 months that im dealing with dino or cyano.(i do not know exactly).Although it is getting better but hadnt still gone.And reefs are not as well as they were before.I wanna do these steps.Tell me if its a good idea or not:
1.I havent siphon my ref since the tank is created.I want to get the sands out and clean them but im worry a bout the cycle just f.. up.
2.Should i get the live rocks out and clean them with fresh water and also the tank sand bed?For this i still amworry a bout the cycle just f.. up.
3.2or3 days no lights.
4.The media should be washed or not(ive bio glass and bio balls)if they have will the bacterias die or will i have problem in ammonia if i clean them?
Sorry cause a lot questions,but im really f...up.
Thanks
No answer?
 

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